Dam yeah that would awesome.. I would think you could push another third of a watt out of them probably, but you're probably better off asking them at Invisible Sun to be sure. If you had to dim it down to 85 per board it's not going to make any difference to the yeild though I'm sure Yeah man that sounds like a good price. My 6x ISH150 boards and 480 driver was £400, I'll be dialing it down to 70w per board to keep the heat down while still matching the output of the 600w HPS that I'm so used to. That's the current plan anyway, I'll have the option of ramping them up a little bit if I wanted, perhaps in the winter when it so much cooler
I've turned the boards 90° and positioned them on the other side of the frame so I'm able to protect all the connecting wires. I was a little concerned about bridging those large gaps with a wire that will inevitably get knocked out by my clumsy ass. Can someone confirm that this is correct? @Tbone Shuffle I'd appreciate your input if you have time
It looks right. As you are wiring in series you just have to go from the pos on driver to pos on first board then neg on 1st board to pos from 2nd board, neg on 2nd board to pos on 3rd board ect. Have the neg from driver to neg on last board. Like the picture.
Yes just pay attention to the positive and negative labeling on the connectors. They have to go in the correct order from positive output of the driver to positive of the first board. Negative of first board to positive of 2nd board. Negative of 2nd board to postive of 3rd board. Negative of 3rd board to positive of 4th board. So on to 6th then on the last board the last negative hooks to the negative of the driver.
Thanks man Thanks man, yeah I'm pretty happy with it so far Awesome Same here mate, hopefully get it finished tonight
I haven't had much progress lately as I've been so busy. But today i bolted the boards on the frame. I have been trying to push the wires in to the terminal blocks but I can't get them in there, anyone on here assembled these before and could help me out? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong
Do you have a reference picture to peak at? Without looking, it sounds like your wire gauge might be too big.
Do they have just the normal molex connectors on the boards? If so it is best to use 18awg (1mm2) solid core cable.
What do you need to see? The terminal blocks? I can take a photo I don't know what's normal, I'll take a photo in a sec. The guy at Invisible Sun Horticulture told me to use 1.5mm strand or solid core. I went with strand, but it seems like its too thick to fit and not rigid enough. I thought maybe you need to push the "button" down to open it up but I can't really see what's going on inside
They look like the same molex connectors as on the hlg boards. Max size to fit 18awg or 1mm2. If using stranded would probably go down to 16awg and solder the tips. @Tbone Shuffle would be able to tell you exactly as I believe he has some invisible sub boards.
I have some Invisible sun boards. They have the same requirements as HLG boards, 18 ha solid core or tinned stranded Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
If your using 16 awg, tin the tips of you have a soldering iron. If not, twist the strands as tight as you can, it should fit.
I tried tinning them but they seemed to thick to go in. When they are just twisted, they buckled as I pushed them in. Do you think it's worth buying some solid core in the morning?
The guy from ISH said to use 1.5mm so I didn't want to go any smaller than that. I have no idea what is safe and what isn't when it comes to anything other than 240v
I’m in the US but they sent me a couple to test. I used 18ga solid core wiring Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
If you have nothing else available, try trimming some of the strands off the wire going to the board. Make sure you cut it tight so no loose stands hang around. I’d tin them again, then push them into the plugs. Or, like you said, buy a smaller gauge wire and be done with it.