Indoor gardening without bottled nutrients

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Indoors' started by jerry111165, Apr 15, 2012.

  1. Due to their high nutrient content, most of the dynamic accumulator plants will make excellent "compost activators".

    Have you been over to the "Backyard Composting" thread over in the Organics forum?

    Here - Backyard Composting

    J
     
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  3. quick question Jerry . im on well water that goes through a softener, i also have an ro system but it doesnt produce enough water to suit my needs. is it harmfull to mix the softened water with the ro water if the total ppm's are at 110 ppm after they are mixed? will this hurt my microherd having the softened water added?
     
  4. I wouldn't use softened water k don't think. I answered you in the Organics forum but if you could bypass the RO/Softener setup altogether I believe you'd be fine - just using straight well water.

    I use straight well water.

    J
     
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  5. What part of the Earth do you live on?

    J
     
  6. i would like to try out ur technique,
     
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  7. Your best bet is to wander over to the Organics forum here at GC - Organic Growing

    I'd start doing some reading here in the No-Till gardening thread. You'll find an excellent very basic recipe in the beginning of this thread - No-Till Gardening: Revisited

    I'm also more than happy to help. Start doing some reading in the no-till thread & the organics forum in general - this will definitely get you started and let me know if you have any other questions.

    J
     
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  8. What about cow shit? I have access at an amish farm for lods of it for free and it is well over a year old.
     
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  9. I would think being its an Amish farm you won't have to worry about anti-biotic or other junk being fed to the cows. Other than those concerns, I would get it and at the very least use it with some other stuff in a worm farm. But I see no reason if it's been around awhile, not hot, then use it in the soil mix.


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  10. Question, i have some soil i ran 2 grows through, did well, it was black gold, i did use fox farm type stuff, can i rinse it, use it 50/50 with and organic new mix i will make, and be ok? Or will leftover salts ruin the organics
     
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  11. I think I'd save it for other projects to be sure.

    J
     
  12. Jerry!
    I made my soil per the recipe and guessed at 16 cubic feet i ended up with 13 cubic feet, is it going to be way too hot? Or can i roll with it? If i have to i can knock it down but my back is killing me. I want a soil Mixer or someone a lot younger to help hahaH
    I used all organic everything. Peat moss and perlite, worm castings i mixed with humus/manure, alfala, kelp, organic all purpose fertilizer.
    Man this stuff stinks so yummy.
     
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  13. So its oki doki then? I really didnt want to go hydro and spend that kinda money, worry about power outtages, da da da.
    So i the end for 130 bux starting up i have 26 buckets of organic goodness.
     
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  14. There really isn't such thing as a soil that's "too hot" providing you used good quality compost/worm castings which will provide the necessary bacteria and fungus to break down the soil amendments into usable plant food - there is only soil that hasn't been (nutrient) cycled long enough.

    For best results I would moisten thoroughly and set it aside if possible for 2-3 weeks if at all possible to give the soil microbes time to start breaking everything down before use. Depending on the amount of amendments use the soil can actually get physically hot - think compost heap.

    Wet it all down, throw it in a few containers with the lid cracked (needs O2) and feel it in a week for heat. I'd wait at least 2 weeks before use and if you can go longer then do so.

    Congrats on the new soil mix!

    J
     
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  15. I have tims, being as im moving, dont live in a legal state. Im basicaly starting over and moving in 4 to 6 weeks finished. It will have plenty cook time.
    Its going to give me a chance to make a perpetual harvest setup happen, i needed help last round, 2lbs in 3 weeks was hard for 1 person to process.
     
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  16. Quick question,. Will my soil Cook still when it is getting down to 45 degrees at night? Well 49 lately and 70 daytime? As i have it stored oitside for now, its a lot and moving i dont have time and energy to bring it tto the basement just to load and move it in 3 weeks.
     
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  17. Nutrient cycling slows but does not stop in cooler weather. You'll be just fine.

    J
     
  18. #3459 InvasionANC, Sep 16, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2016
    As someone that has a decent understanding of when and why certain additives or elements need to be applied during a plant's life, I am just curious about how these "No Till" methods manage things like the increased uptake of Potassium and Phosphorus mid bloom. Do these elements naturally accumulate and remain available until they are needed? If so, how can these mixes not be too "hot" (as in nutrient burning conditions) at times? I don't need an incredibly detailed response, I am planning to do a side by side comparison of two brands of chemical fertilizer and home "built" organic soil in my greenhouse next summer (in Alaska) so I'm sure I will have more questions to ask in the future. For now I'm just trying to understand how this works, but I think I am grasping the basics well enough. Lol

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  19. "Do these elements naturally accumulate and remain available until they are needed?"

    Basically, yes. A good home-built organic soil will have everything necessary for plants to thrive added during construction. It really is amazing just how little nutrition plants need in an organic setting - supplements and additives are not necessary compared to hydroponic or "NPK gardening". Plants and soil microbes will take what the plant needs when it's needed.

    It is so extremely important to base an organic potting soil on healthy, viable compost and/or vermicompost and once this is done 90% of the work is done. So many so called "super soil" recipes rely on a plethora of many assorted soil amendments and really rely on NPK but over the years I've discovered that only a minimal of soil amendments are needed - providing the soil is based on quality compost.

    J
     
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