Those autos deserve respect. They can get huge and yield huge, but will take longer than advertised. My experience in DWC is that, depending on strain, autos can yield just as much as photos. My record is 15 oz from a WorldOfSeeds NorthernLights x BigBud grown in a 3 x 3 ft tent with 3 other plants, but that went about 16 weeks from seed, and had the tent to itself for a few weeks. My advice is to invest a bit more time and see what happens.
All of this was me STILL trying to get my first order. This is still from my first order with them, haven’t gotten my original order yet, nearly two months later lmfao. I’m probably fucked in all honesty. I can’t afford more soil n shit. I can’t grow the correct seeds even IF they manage to give me what I’ve paid for. I’ve used up all but one bag of my soil. They fucked me over good this time. They’re smart for not allowing real reviews. They suck. Period.
I don’t know what you can do for me to be honest. Sure, you represent the company that has turned my first grow into every thing I’ve worked and planned so hard to avoid. I did everything I could to AVOID insignificant yields. Yet someone with ILGM took that from me. Not only did they take that from me, the endured that my yield if I do the perfect grow would not average more than 4 ounces per plant. The seeds I invested in would have gotten me 4 oz if if I screwed up throughout my entire grow. Do you understand that? All of my money, time, and resources that were dedicated to growing photos are now WASTED. I cannot grow as I planned, as I’ve PAID for. Then add the FACT I’ve been treating this autos as photos and have most definitely stunted 4/6. So that 4 oz is looking like 2 if I’m blessed. But blessed has nothing to do with it because I planned for MONTHS before purchasing. I’m doomed. What can you do for me? Explain to whoever’s in charge how they’ve FUCKED me. Explain to them that sending what has been paid for nearly two months ago does not fix the problems they’ve caused me. I’m still out soil and other resources that I could not afford to waste. Can’t grow them now even if I had them. My lien holder won’t extend me because ILGM made a mistake. Lmfao I’m fucked. Y’all fucked me hard man, never tf again. What can you do for me? Well mr, ilgm, you tell me.
Yeah they sent me the wrong seeds. They’re going to send me the right seeds. Unfortunately it’s too little too late.
I gambled EVERYTHING on this. And they fucked me man. I have until July to show these mfs results before they pull the plug and chop it down. I can’t even explain to them that I was given the wrong seeds. They don’t care.
Well, DreamingOfSweetChiba You just took me by total surprise. From what you said it was a front office mistake and please don't take it out on me. I have nothing to with shipping seeds. But I do understand your pain in all this and I too would be piss if that were to happen to me. I'm very sorry that, that this has happened. If venting on me makes you feel better than go for it and I don't mean that in a smart ass way either. But I will say this … If any time comes along that you may think that I could help in writing a wrong right please ask and i'll see what we can't come up with. ok
I would be pretty annoyed but I'm positive the only way you will get it fixed is by being polite, they're not sourced in the US and will laugh at you if you make them mad they've got no rules to follow.
I don't understand why you are so angry with the vendor when it's quite possible that you may have just ordered the wrong seeds. I checked their website and the autoflower and photoperiod sections are clearly designated. All you have to do is check your invoice or your online account to see if they are to blame here or you.
@ILGM Will man I’m sorry. I was just really pissed and hadn’t smoked yet. It’s not an excuse, I’m just not right. I had no business tagging you in this shit. Like, I don’t even know your capacity with them and to assume... I’m the ass for sure. As for your offer of help, and me SCREAMING for help like a lil bitch, I appreciate the offer to the fullest. I just don’t know what would help. I just gotta get through this one, and pray there’s a next. Unless you can guide me toward massive yields with the autos in soil by July I’m on my own lol. Let’s see what 930w of blurple can do!
I get that but, but there’s no fix for my problems. Not that they’d be willing to extend anyway. I knew the chance of walking away with zilch before I placed my orders lol thanks though. I’m well past being polite, or trying to come off as polite. The mistake will ruin me unless I’m able to get another tent, more lights, soil, etc to reach the goal I’m required to reach if I’m going to be able to continue to grow and not lose everything I’ve invested in the process... I’ve only got until the end of July to make magic happen, they can’t do that for me unless Merlin is with them. I think, I don’t really know, but I’m not defeated yet. I’ve got a closet, space under steps, a whole extra bedroom. They offered to send me the seeds but I know I was irritating af because she’s like I’m just going refund this, and canceled the seed order which is ok because I don’t have the time to cycle photos by then. So that’s a couple of dollars towards getting new lights to be able create more flower space. But I think I can do it....sorry
Well.. you can do both LST and HST. Push the nutrients heavily during vegetation. During flowering, back off on the nutrients during the two weeks, then start boosting them up until you just barely see a little bit of nutrient burn on the tips of the leaves - then you know you're giving it just as much as it can take, but not enough to do harm. Be sure to use appropriate lighting during vegetation (~5000K) and flowering (~3000K) and push as much power as you have. Back off the power during flowering if you start to see light bleaching, raise the lights if you start to see light burn. And, since you are trying to do it in a short time, go with a 12/12 lighting schedule during flower - even though autoflowering plants kind of operate on their own schedule, switching to 12/12 often encourages them to go into their death spiral sooner. In the last couple of weeks, decrease the light power to 75% and raise the height a bit. Lower your daytime and nighttime temperatures. These will also help convince the plant that winter is coming. Those are the things that come off the top of my head. If I think of others, I'll add them. There is a forum completely dedicated solely to autoflowering plants where you can find a ton of knowledge on the subject. If you use your favorite search engine to look for "autoflower forum" it should be your very first hit. (I don't know that it would be appropriate or allowed for me to provide a link here...)
Thanks first. A lot. I’ve only been able to feed strength just recently. Last watering I added microbe life photosynthesis plus and mammoth p, and Nourish-L. Next feeding Saturday.
Oh, and for what it's worth - I found the White Widow kit that you ordered from the ILGM website. There's no way you could have accidentally ordered autoflower, as it's only offered as a photoperiod kit with feminized seeds. So, yeah - they made a mistake. It happens - unfortunately in this case, it has placed you in a tough situation.
No worries my friend I don't blame you at all. any way on to your problem : I would and I may have the very thing you need. If you can take just a min. and follow the link and check out what I have posted I think you'll see what I thinking. This stuff is mother nature all the way Humic Acids Man
DreamingOfSweetChiba, I really want you to read this one. I believe this will put you right were you want to be at harvest time Harley Smith | July 17, 2017 Humic or Fulvic Acid: What Kind are Your Plants On? Source: Kateleigh / Dreamstime.com Takeaway: Discover the differences between humic and fulvic acids, and the best ways to apply them to your plants. Do you know the difference between humic and fulvic acids? If you don’t, you’re not alone. Even the regulators at the USDA haven’t been able to agree on a definition, and it has been causing a lot of confusion in product labeling. Nevertheless, humic and fulvic acids are some of the best biostimulant products in nature, improving the uptake of nutrients in both soil and hydroponics, and once you understand the difference between the two, you will soon discover many applications for your garden. Humic and fulvic acids are intermediate chelators. Chela means claw, so chelates are organic molecules that attach to mineral ions like a claw, holding them tightly enough so they don’t get locked up in the soil, but loosely enough so they are available to the plant on demand. Maximum Yield - a source of information about product showcasing, technology instructing and garden harvesting of the growing business Email Newsletter Join thousands of other growers who are already receiving our monthly newsletter. Humic acid molecules are larger than fulvic acid molecules and make great soil conditioners. Fulvic acids are smaller, more biologically active molecules that are faster-acting and make excellent foliar sprays. Both improve the uptake of minerals, stimulate plant growth, and improve the plant’s natural resistance to environmental stresses. Humic and Fulvic Acid Combinations Most humic acid products on the market are actually a combination of humic and fulvic acids. The humic acid fraction consists of larger molecules with lots of positive and negative charges on the surface of the molecules. It isn’t actually taken up through the roots, but it lightly holds onto minerals in the root zone, making them much more available to plants. It is especially helpful in soils with high clay content. Clay particles and organic matter have a strong negative charge, and they tend to hold onto positively charged minerals too tightly for root hairs to easily take them up, meaning important plant nutrients such as potassium, calcium, magnesium and essential trace elements can be locked up by clay particles. Humic acid forms a bridge between the clay particles and the mineral cations. Fulvic acid has a much smaller molecular weight, and is more biologically active. Fulvic acid not only surrounds mineral ions, it can also help transport them through the cell membrane and release them inside the cell. This means fulvic acid makes a great foliar spray, allowing trace elements such as copper, iron, manganese and zinc to be better absorbed through the leaves. Fulvic acid also stimulates the metabolisms of plants, which makes fulvic acid treatments a great way to quickly correct trace metal deficiencies while stimulating plant growth. Improving Iron Uptake In soil, humic and fulvic acids help with the uptake of iron. Iron is one of the limiting factors in soil since it is easily oxidized and turned into rust. Once oxidized, iron becomes unavailable to plants, but humic and fulvic acids not only keep iron soluble, they also stimulate cell membranes to take up iron more efficiently. Iron is a catalyst for chlorophyll production, so as plants take up more iron, they make more of the green pigment that harvests light energy to make sugars. Some of the sugars are used for energy to grow and reproduce, some are stored in the flowers and fruit, and some are leached from the roots to feed plant growth-promoting microbes in the root zone. Humic acid in the root zone also stimulates the uptake of nitrates and other essential elements. Adding Seaweed Extracts Humic and fulvic acids work even better when combined with seaweed extracts. Seaweed extracts are loaded with natural plant-growth hormones such as auxins and cytokinins. Humic and fulvic acids hold onto the auxins in an exchangeable form to amplify their effects on plants. In fact, Virginia Tech’s 10-year study on organic biostimulants found that five parts of humic acid combined with two parts of seaweed extracts worked 50% better than either product alone. If you want more lateral root growth and more root mass, you can easily make your own humic acid and kelp root stimulant. Fulvic Acid Foliar Sprays are Perfect for Clones Fulvic acid foliar sprays make a great tonic for sick clones, especially when combined with kelp. If your cuttings are slow to root, or if the leaves start to turn yellow and fall off, try using a fine mist of fulvic acid and seaweed at the recommended 5:2 ratio. Rooting hormones are actually made by plants in the leaves and transported to the roots to initiate new growth, so a foliar spray with fulvic acid and kelp is fast-acting when absorbed by the leaves. Research shows that plants start to respond to fulvic acids in as little as four hours, and vigorous root growth and stress recovery is often evident in as little as two days. Before you give up on your precious seedlings or clones, try a little fulvic acid tonic first. (Also see: The Benefits of Adding CO2 During the Cloning Stage) Humic and Fulvic Acids Provide Stress Protection Humic and fulvic acids also help protect your plants against stress. In the Virginia Tech study, it was found that the 5:2 ratio of humic acid to kelp stimulated plants to make 50% more of a powerful plant protection agent called superoxide dismutase (SOD), an enzyme that sponges free radicals and protects the chloroplasts and membranes of the cell. To be effective, SOD must be turned on by either an iron/manganese complex or a copper/zinc complex. If the enzyme is activated, a single SOD molecule can perform more than 1,000 chemical reactions per second in the cell, so if you condition your plants against stress with humic acids and kelp, plants will stay green longer and recover faster. Improved levels of SOD can help protect plants against heat stress, drought stress, UV stress and salt stress. Just remember to condition plants against stress before the stress happens. Humic and Fulvic Acids for Hydroponic Use In hydroponics, both humic and fulvic acids work well, but there are minor differences. If you use RO (reverse osmosis) water, humic acid may be a slightly better choice. Humic acid contains both humic and fulvic acid fractions and it has a buffering effect on pH. RO water alone has practically no buffer for pH. When using RO water, the pH can spike upwards during rapid vegetative growth, or crash during heavy fruiting and flowering—sometimes overnight. But humic and fulvic acids help buffer pH. In nature, humic and fulvic acids raise the pH of acidic soils and lower the pH of alkaline soils, neutralizing both conditions, while having a moderating effect on your plants. Humic acid also adds more than 62 beneficial trace elements to the water. Since RO water is stripped of nearly all of its minerals, humic and fulvic acids make a great water treatment for hydroponics. If you use hard water, shift the balance towards fulvic acid. Hard water is usually high in calcium and magnesium ions. Since fulvic acid molecules are smaller than humic fractions, they are better at surrounding the calcium ions to help keep them soluble and available to plants. Fulvic acid is also more acidic than most humic acid products. Since hard water is generally higher in pH, fulvic acid may be a better choice when using well water in hydroponics. (See: The Top 4 Reasons Your pH is Out of Whack) What’s On the Shelf? It’s not always easy to determine which products on the store shelf contain humic or fulvic acid. That’s because humic and fulvic acids are complex molecules, and regulators have a hard time defining exactly what they are. In most states, manufacturers aren’t even allowed to put the words fulvic acid on the labels. Ultimately, the Association of American Plant Food Control Officials (AAPFCO) is the group that decides on formal definitions and testing procedures for humic and fulvic acids. Afterwards, the departments of agriculture in various states set labeling standards. In the meantime, look for the words humic acid on the label and check out what color the product is. Products rich in humic acids are usually dark brown to black, and fulvic acids are usually yellow, orange, or amber. Experiment with humic or fulvic acids to make your own custom tonics and before long, you will find the perfect recipes to grow healthier, faster-growing, more stress-resistant plants. Written by Harley Smith Profile Picture of Harley Smith Harley Smith is the director of research for NPK Industries. A veteran in the hydroponics industry, Harley has more than 18 years of consulting and educating experience. He is regarded as an expert on plant nutrition and organic bio-stimulants, performing research and new product development in the US and Europe.
I can totally imagine you are bummed out, this is a huge disappointment indeed! From what I've read here I believe you ordered photos but our warehouse made a mistake in packing your order. Did you already reach out to customer support about this? It would help a lot if you can share a picture of the labels on the baggies you received so we can find out what happened. In the meantime, we will send you your correct order right away. Can you send me a private message including your order number so I can make sure this will be resolved today? I also want to offer you something extra. Please accept our sincere apologies for the mixup and give us a chance to fix this for you.