How To Make Bho To Pass Testing. Really Nice Wax/shatter.

Discussion in 'Harvesting and Processing Marijuana' started by stupidstuff, Oct 13, 2012.

  1. It's like honey!!! But it gets you blasted!!!! Lol
     

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  2. ^^^Now thats what I am talking about:smoking:^^^
     
  3. [quote name='"stupidstuff"']^^^Now thats what I am talking about:smoking:^^^[/quote]

    :dabbin: lol
     
  4. How's it goin peeps I'm new to GC

    Here is some bho I made with my october harvest
    So I took it and I boiled it off a couple times in a skillet. I didn't want to smoke more butane than I needed to so I waited till the last boil to whip it and I should of taken a pic after the whip cuz it was super golden buddery texture.
    My first time making it after a lil reading
    I used a plastic bottle and vector butane
    I won't be using plastic again hahahaha
     

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  5. Now I got another question. How can I obtain the honey comb forum? Thanks.
     
  6. As I dont like honeycomb I dont know how to make it and have it turn out every time. But i will give it a try next run. I am going to be out of town for another two weeks so as soon as I get back.

    Woodlock: shit looks good!:smoking:
     
  7. As far as I know it's made by leaving the oil under vacuum and at 120F for several hours. The edges tend not to wax up, but a week later it will on its own.
     
  8. hey thanks bro I hope to make a lot more this go around. I am gonna get one of those glass tubes like 2 ft long with the butane hole
     
  9. Thanks for that. I was having a hard time remembering what temps to use. Really dabbed today,,, plus the BHO brownies:smoking:
     
  10. :D
    (#jealousy)

    BTW
    That temp can vary with strains apparently, the thicker the oil the higher the temp. Think the Snocap I saw was only needing 110F. Experiment as need be.
     
  11. #71 Klickedy Klack, Nov 16, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 16, 2012
    As for making honeycomb I've done numerous extractions for local growers. Most growers have me purge it into honeycomb wax (Best taste/smell). That takes me about 4-8 times longer purging as it does to make a transparent oil When i make shatter i vacuum purge at 125F and a full vacuum for 30-60 minutes. When i make honeycomb the temp even goes up a little more, and it purges for 4-24 hours in a full vacuum at 120-130F. I have seen the best result when you use parchment paper inside of a jar lid or similar object to get a complete honeycomb without the sides remaining shatter like. as you would when using a flat surface in the vacuum. You can tell its starting to wax when you see darker swirls inside the shatter.

    I have to purge it into shatter first. Then keep purging into wax. This forum is great keep it up!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. 2ND ATTEMT AT CLEAR AMBER BHO W/ GROWER SHAKE ( Not bad but, far from StupidStuff)
    (1st wasn't a huge success and was quickly turned into canna butter, I'll link to that process later)

    I have made BHO before but I was definitely not making anything special... Very green almost black but still a quality smoke. After reading Stupidstuff's tutorial I decided to give his method a shot.

    Here is a list of the tools I used to get the job done (most of this you can get online but I tried to list local retailers for those of us who are impatient):

    -1 Oz. Grower Shake... Not tasty smokin'
    -Oil Dish - Etsy or your local shop
    -Nesco Dehydrator (This particular unit come with the fruit tray which is perfect for shake) - Nesco® American Harvest® Snackmaster® Encore™ Dehydrator and Jerky Maker - Bed Bath & Beyond
    -Extraction tube - Your local quality shop or search eBay or etsy for honey oil extractor
    -Unbleached coffee filters x 2 - anywhere
    -8x8 Pyrex Pan - Wally World
    -12x16 Electric skillet - DeLonghi Skillet - Bed Bath & Beyond
    -Vector 5X Butane - Local shop or Amazon.com: Vector Quintuple Refined Butane Gas Fuel Refill 12 Can: Patio, Lawn & Garden
    -Infrared Themometer - Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer-IR001 at The Home Depot
    -Oil Warmer & Tea Candles - Anywhere that sells candles or http://www.bathandbodyworks.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12475826&cp=12586994.12936200.11207212
    -Paint Scraper - Home Depot
    -Vacuum Container (Extremely poor man's Edition) - http://www.basspro.com/FoodSaver-Designer-Canister-Set/product/45534/
    -Foodsaver Container replacement hose (You will need this for the container and it is only available online or with a new FoodSaver) - Amazon.com: Tilia Foodsaver Accessory Hose: Home & Kitchen
    -Hand Vacuum Pump - Harbor Freight Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit



    I started out with 1 Oz of grower shake which I placed on the fruit try of the dehydrator at 105 F for 4 hrs. After dehydration I ran the shake through my grinder to get as fine a product as possible. Also the .7 g of keif in the grinder is a nice bonus :)...

    Inside Temp 72 F
    Outside Temp 55 F

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    Then I put they ground shake into the tube. I sealed off the open end with two coffee filters and the pipe clamp that came with the tube. A towel is a good idea because the tube will get very cold, so I took a zip tie and attached one(the towel adds a little protection during use/storage so I just leave it attached)...

    [​IMG]


    A few steps are missing photos because well I just didn't take pictures... I set my fan up out back and blasted one 320ml can of Vector through my tube in the Pyrex dish. Then I moved the Pyrex dish to my water bath set up in the electric skillet I had a few feet away. The dish sat in the 120-130 F water bath for approximately 20 minutes until no more liquid butane was left in the dish. Once I observed no more reaction I moved the Pyrex dish and the skillet inside to be scraped. I have to do it in this order because I do not have a vacuum chamber larger enough to fit my Pyrex dish inside. And here is the dish....


    [​IMG]

    Now here is where a few photo are staged or slightly out of order but you'll see the concept..

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    ..

    [​IMG]

    ..

    [​IMG]

    ..so now that I have the Pyrex dish inside, I placed it back into the 130 F water bath to keep the Pyrex warm while scraping. I also had my oil dish in the candle warmer which was keeping the dish around 130 F. This was an attempt to keep the oil warm until vacuum. I then scrapped the Pyrex dish and moved the oil to the oil dish it would be stored in. The entire time having either the Pyrex or oil dish on a heat source keeping it around 130 F, just depending on which one I was working with at the time. Once I had thoroughly scrapped the Pyrex into the oil dish I moved it into the vacuum chamber I made. ( the golf balls are just there to displace air so there is air less to vacuum out... its a cheap pump and takes forever to get to vacuum) I then used the hand vacuum to get the container to -22 inHg and waited for about 10 minutes. I released the vacuum and the put oil dish back on the candle warmer. Once it reached 150 F I took the oil dish back to -22 inHg in the vacuum chamber for about 10 minutes. I repeated this process 2 more times and the finally increased the vacuum to -26 inHg. I left it under vacuum at -26 inHg for 30 minutes.


    [​IMG]

    This is what the finished product looked like...

    [​IMG]


    After the final weigh in I yielded 1.4 g of oil for the 1 oz of grower shake. Not great numbers, considering I usually yield 1.8 g per 1/2 oz of good flower with my old method, but I didn't expect much. The shake is more for educational purposes than enjoyment so no big deal. Once I get the method perfected I'll be making a batch with fine flowers immediately.

    The finished product had both clear and cloudy oil from the same batch treated the same way. I think that may have something to do with whipping the oil when it was in the water bath outside to get the bubbles out. Other than that I did not mix or fold over any of the oil once it was in the oil dish. Either way the color is pretty close but definitely lacks that amber quality of stupidstuff's honey oil. Lastly but most concerning is the taste of the oil. In the past my greenish black oil has had a distinct full canna taste but this product does not really have much of an upfront taste at all. The aftertaste however is almost a chemically, possibly butane like taste, that I have never experienced before except the 1st time I tried Stupidstuff's method. The taste may have been in prior batches but just masked by the canna taste, either way definitely not as strong of a chem taste.


    From what you have seen what do you think I can do to both improve the taste and clearity of my oil? Any idea of where I am going wrong?


    Thanks in advance for the help. Keep up the great work stupidstuff!!
     

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  13. do i need to dehydrate my trim even if its been dry for a while? and also is it the same if i just freeze it?
     

  14. Dont freeze it. And yes you should dehydrate even if it has been out for a while. The moisture content will still be pretty high. What is your relative humidity in the place where it is stored?
     
  15. im not sure, but im in socal... if that can answer some questions
     
  16. Nope, the weather can change a good bit depending where you live in SoCal. When I drive through the Hollywood Hills and into the "Valley" the temperature jumps up almost 20 degrees and the humidity drops (the valley is actually high desert...).
     
  17. 626 area east of los angeles
     
  18. Forecasts
     
  19. Just realized that this is a lame copy & paste of Bret Maverick's comment on one of his youtube wax videos...

    Boo this man!!!
    :devious:
     
  20. I know i use the same procedure i started off his but have added a few tips and observations that I've noticed in execution especially the edges remaining shatter like
     

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