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HOW MUCH WATER?

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by poorbuffalo15, Feb 11, 2014.

  1. How much water to you feed the girls. organic soil just placed in soil. how much water and schedule for water??
     
    CALLING ALL EXPERTS!

     
  2. #2 Doc-J, Feb 11, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014
    Water until you get a little runoff, and water again them when they start to dry out. There is no schedule anyone can give you that will be accurate. Every grow and even different plants in a single grow can have different requirements.
     
  3. About a third of the solo cup or a cup or so per galleon

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
  4. Thanks guys! I will take that with some further research!
     
  5. #5 pok3_smot, Feb 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 11, 2014
    A big misunderstanding a lot of beginning growers have is that over watering does not mean giving your plant too much water in a single watering (excepting new seedlings in red cups etc.) but rather over watering is watering your plant too often and not giving it a chance to dry out and the roots to breathe. As long as your soil mixture is good quality and has has good drainage you're set.

    You want a healthy amount of runoff when you water to ensure you are washing out old built up nutrient salts. There's no real set rule  but its pretty easy to know when the soils been thoroughly wetted and theres a good bit of water in your collection tray.

    Another important thing to remember when watering is you want to water your plants slowly and if possible with a shower head type watering can or wand etc. The point is you the water to moisten the soil through capillary action and not a gravity based draining. If you keep track you will notice that it takes more water to get runoff if you slowly water the plant, i.e water a bit wait 20-30 seconds water a bit more etc than if you just go quickly because the water will force channels through the soil and not evenly moisten it.
     
    Here is a picture illustrating the capillary action vs gravity action im talking about
     
    http://soft-matter.seas.harvard.edu/images/1/13/Capillary.gif
     
    As for when you need to water your plants again after the last time that is easiest to do by getting a feeling for how heavy your pot is after watering and then wait until it dries out and feel it again and it will be significantly lighter and you will be able to feel when you need to water it. Also you can feel down 1-2 knuckles deep in the soil and if its still dry you can water it but i much prefer the picking it up method but i dont scrog so that could be a concern if you do run a scrog setup.
     
    It is also not that bad to let your plant get a bit thirsty as that encourages a deeper root growth in search of water, so waiting until you see a slight drooping start isnt harmful to your plant as long as its not under really hot temps (85-90+f).
     
  6. That right there is a quality post! answers 99% of the questions about watering. I cant seem to find another noob question to ask about watering!
     
    Great post sir. thank you.
     
  7. #7 pok3_smot, Feb 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 11, 2014
    No problem, i didnt notice until after posting that you had it tagged as organic, the bit about washing about nutrient salts wouldnt be valid there in a supersoil grow i think (never grown completely organically but thats the plan for my second tent i am setting up today) but the rest about watering via a capillary action and feeling the weight of the pot to know when to water etc would be the same with a supersoil grow.
     
    Are you growing in an organic supersoil where all you give it is water or just in an organic soil like happy frog and giving it organic nutes and compost tea?
    Also i edited in a link to my original post with a picture showing what i meant about capillary vs gravity watering.
     
  8. Well i have fox farm ocean forest. i thought that would do for seed to harvest but after reading, and looking thru other threads, i found out it wont do. i wanted to get a ready made soil to eliminate the labor but i guess if you want to be a true organic u gotta get dirty sometimes.  i want to be able to just add water to the soil but from what im getting i wont be able to with just FFOF. i will need more ingredients for the ffof to be effective.   
     
    i guess if i want this to work this round for me i would have to buy something to put in the water, or start over and prep the soil. i don't want to go thru all that prep work for now. im gonna wing it and see how it goes.
     
    Doing my research on the super soil/ or at least a high quality soil recipe. i found some from some experts on this forum.
    Great forum. thanks pok3
     
  9. #9 pok3_smot, Feb 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 11, 2014
    Yeah Its a great choice for soil, ocean forest will get you through 3-5 weeks of vegging before you need to start adding anything as long as you transplant it 2-4 times throughout its life to give it new soil and a larger root mass, but once you hit flowering you are going to want nutrients of some kind unless you make your own organic supersoil, a lot of which use happy frog or ocean forest as a base.

    There is a line of nutrients you could look into called ph perfect from the company advanced nutrients, i haven't used it or any other AN products but other people seem to with good results and its point is that you don't have to PH the water you mix with the nutes, it phs and buffers it for you so you would just need the two part ph perfect bloom, as the ocean forest could last you through veg easily nutewise. It wouldn't be organic though, but that's not really that abd of a thing.

    Currently about 30$ on amazon for the 2 part bloom ph perfect, you don't NEED nutes for the run but they will definitely benefit your yield significantly.

    If you are determined to do a no nute run i would suggest a lot of transplants. Contrary to what i see posted a lot transplanting is not bad for your plant and if you do it properly does not stress it at all and actually creates a huge burst of new growth every time you do. I think most peoples problems is transplanting too early when the rootball hasn't consolidated enough in the cup/pot because they're impatient etc.

    I like to go rooted clones put into redcups to 1.5 gal to 3 gal to 5 gal pots and then flower it out, but however you decide to do it you will want to do a transplant that  doubles the pots size right before flipping, the roots will grow into it and give it a nice source of nutrients to help out the flowering.
     
  10. More great info.
     
    i plan on having no transfer from pot to pot. i have a small grow space. about 34 inches from top to bottom height wise, 2 3 gallon pots. cut the top of the pot to get more height. it looks as though i might have to buy some AN but im still on the fence because once this round is done im upgrading my soil. gonna do it right and prep the soil like jerry said to do. 3-4 weeks of prep for that.
     
    i cant just give up on what i got going now so i might just have to but some nutes for when that time comes........
     
    Grasscity is the bomb!
     
  11. #11 pok3_smot, Feb 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 11, 2014
    Yeah if you are height limited larger containers arent really an option so many transplanting is out and its either get some nutes or have a lower yield now and use the money from not buying nutes towards making your own supersoil.
     
    I would say buy the nutes and still make the supersoil, because it will cost a decent bit of money to make the soil and then a month or two for it to get ready. The value of the individual amounts of each thing you add to the soil isnt that big but they're all sold in like 10-20$ packages minimum size for the humus, the castings, the bone or blood feather meals  soft rock phosphates etc whatever you're putting in it on top of the cost of the bags of soil, itd be ncie if you could just buy by exactly the amount you need for that batch of soil so it can end up costing a good bit to get supersoil going but you end up saving in the long run on nutrients and time spent phing water which is why im going to start a batch of soil once it gets warmer..
     
  12. Im good at time perspective. no problem with the bulk packages. I am in it for the long haul.
     
    Let me ask you a question pok3, its alittle off the subject line.  I don't know if you read that super thread by jerry111165 titled indoor gardening without bottled nutrients, but in the first post jerry states his soil mix is good for multiple cycles, just top dress it with some earthworm castings, tuck a little around it if needed, dampen it, and done. That is my goal. Get what I need to build a quality soil for the babies
     
    Do you have soil that you mixed together that can get you to harvest with just water being added, keeping in mind that the soil has been mixed with its amendments and minerals?  if not what do you do with the soil? and at what stage do you make any additions if need be?
     
    trying to figure this out.
    sorry im such a damn retard I think I just made this worst for me.... im getting my anxiety back......I need to take a hit and relax....
     
  13. #13 pok3_smot, Feb 12, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 12, 2014
    Yeah he is talking about an organic supersoil and there are a lot of different recipes people come up with, i think oen of the more popular is from a guy named subcool i think its called subcool supersoil anyways. They only require you to water them, no phing etc. but theyre not really that cheap to get going.
     
    If youre interested this is a recipe i foundf posted by subcool, but like i said it would be pretty expensive to get it going.
     
    6 Bags Roots soil or equivalent high quality supped up grow soil
    25 pounds Pure Worm Castings
    ½ cup Azomite trace minerals
    2/3 Cup Sweet Lime IE Dolomite
    1 Kilo Bone meal / IE 5 Pounds
    1 Kilo Blood meal ( I use a bit more bone than Blood in this recipe)
    1 Kilo Bat Guano bloom formula preferably Fruit bats
    3/4 cup Epson Salts

     
     
    Now it is expensive but that will make enough soil for a metric fuckton of pot growing, but you're still probably better off just getting ph perfect for veg and for bloom until you're ready to start the supersoil. Or you could get a 40-50$ ph pen on amazon a bvottle of some 7.0 calibrating solution and a quart of some botanicare pure blend pro bloom nutes for around the cost of both ph perfects, id honestly go with the pen + nutes.
     
  14. any expiration dates on any of the ingredients? if I get bulk I don't want to have stuff that gonna expire in a month or two.  
     
    I cant thank you enough for your info dude.....
     
  15. #15 pok3_smot, Feb 12, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 12, 2014
    Thats getting out of my area of knowledge a bit now, but im pretty sure most of it keeps well.
     
    The meals, guano, epsom salt, dolomite and the azomite would  be long term storable. The castings probably keep fairly well or you will be using the entirety of the bags you buy anyways as it requires quite a bit.
     
    Dont just hop on that recipe for supersoil though, i know subsool has made at least 2-3 different variations of his original recipe and im not sure what that is and some people ahve come up with completely different mixes that work great, just look under the organic section in here.
     
  16. ok I will take note of that.
     
  17. sooooo with a high quality soil mix with the amendments and minerals and all the good stuff, assuming that the baby will stay in the same soil, im assuming i would still have to add ingredients  during the later stages (late veg beginning of flower) correct?     
     
    I THINK I ALMOST GOT IT!!! ALMOST THERE! CALLING ALL EXPERTS!
     
  18. No if you build the soil correctly its water from seed to harvest from what i understand, though you can add stuff if you want.
     
  19. thank you sir.
     
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