How are my babies doing?

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by Alliterative Alligator, May 5, 2016.

  1. I just wanted to check and see if theres anything alarming that I may be missing. The last time my plants died after only 2 weeks. I still dont know what killed them. Maybe nute lockout or overwatering/poor drainage. Here they are
    They are 5 days old
    The soil is MG garden (shitty I know)
    I've only watered once so far
    I have 10,000 lumens of 2400k cfls which I know isn't the best for vege
    Temps are between 60 and 80
  2. They look really healthy to me! Does MG garden have slow release nutes? And how far away are those two plants that are next to each other? They should really be in separate pots. At their age, they don't grow a lot up top, but under the soil they are busy AF, and their root systems will quickly grow into each other and get tangled up, making root damage more likely later when you transplant them. Other than that it all looks good. 10,000 lumens should be sufficient for their small size, don't worry about that for now. But if you can afford a HID system, or good LEDs they really are worth the investment. I got a kit with a 400W digital ballast, 400W MH bulb, 400W HPS bulb, reflector hood, adjustable suspension cables, and a timer for about $120. Just food for thought for the future :)
  3. I had the soil in my garden and scooped it up with the cups. The slow release nutes are long gone. Should I really uproot one? I figured I'd let them do their thing. I didn't mean to pair them to the cup. Also what do you think about the droopy one? It has looked unhappy since day 1.

    Also I figured Id invest some money once I have a successful grow...
  4. It is best to keep them in their own pots, that way they don't have to compete for nutrients and water. It's easy to transplant them when they're young when the roots aren't too developed, but you need to be careful. I'd try taking a regular spoon or small trowel and dig into the dirt an inch or 2 away from the base of the plant, gently levering to loosen the soil, and scooping it out. But you should look for some videos or something to help you, so you can get a good visual. And I wouldn't worry about the droopy one right now. Just because it's not as perky as the others doesn't mean it's not healthy. But if in a week or 2 it's really droopy, then we can go back and make a diagnosis. I get what you mean about waiting to invest in better equipment :) for the HID systems, like 2/3 of the cost is the ballast. Replacement bulbs are only like $10-$12, which is nice.
  5. If you're using off the shelf soil mix, add about 40% perlite to it and repot them into Solo cups with a bunch of drain holes punched in the bottom. Water them in with pH'd water (6.3 to 6.7 range) and put them under your veg lighting...which is a question here. What kind of lighting are you trying to grow under. It almost looks like incandescent bulbs or something in the pictures. But put them under your veg lights and leave them alone. They'll have to develop their root system...they all do that first, and then you'll see them start to grow foliage again and to use water. You don't do anything else to them until they have used up at least 80% or more water in the cup. They don't like wet roots...thus, the perlite to enhance the drainage. When the plant is bigger than the cup, wider and taller, it's usually slightly root bound and safe to transplant up. Don't go up a huge size in your container. Go to 1 gal. pots and do the same thing over. Confining the root space requires less time and gets the plant back to growing foliage again. When the plant is larger than the 1 gallon pot, go up another size or so. If you bring them up this way, it's the fastest way I know to get one ready to go into flower. We run a 10 week flower cycle here. From start to end of flower cycle, I can take clones and have them at about 36" in height by the time the room opens up for a new batch for flower. I use very little nutes during veg because the soil does the work for me. With each repot, you get a fresh batch of food for them and you're not supposed to give them nutes till they use what came in the soil first. All box store soils are loaded with slow release fertilizers, but these plants are very hardy and can take it. It's just adding the perlite to the mix that's the biggie because if you don't give them excellent drainage, they're not going to be healthy. pH your water too. Long term watering out of pH range will lock up the roots on your plant and they can't take in nutrition. I suggest you go to the new grower threads and read all the "sticky" posts for new growers. They contain the basic information you've got to know to be able to do this without pulling your hair out. Why feel like you're lost all the time when the information is there for you already. It's not rocket science, but you've got to know how to raise the plant inside. It's different than what I've done in outdoor gardening all my life. Also, the better the light, the better the harvest and buds at harvest. We flower with 4 1,000 watt hps lights and when we went from 2 to 4, the buds doubled and tripled in size. I also upgraded my veg lighting and saw a huge improvement in rate of growth there. So light is a BIG deal throughout the whole life cycle of this plant if you want to get all out of it you can. Good luck! TWW
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  6. Cool, I'll transplant the youngest one tomorrow. When will I be able identify the males? Do the plants have to be fully mature to identify the sex? I dont have a ton of space.

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  7. Im using 2400k cfls. (I know they are flowering lights) I plan on getting some perlite and a ph meter soon. I have a question, can you prune the roots to keep the plant small?

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  8. As far as identifying males, you have to wait until the first week or 2 of flower, then you can see the difference between the flowers that grow on the plants. Although I did read a few days ago that that isn't necessary, but the poster didn't give any more information than that... For veg try and get some of the 5000K CFLs if at all possible, your plants will thank you. And no, pruning roots won't keep it small. I've actually never heard of that practice. I'd imagine it's pretty impossible to do. Plants prioritize root growth when they can, so if you somehow managed to dig them up and prune them, the plant would just grow them right back.
  9. Ok cool. I was told that my bonsai would need it's roots pruned 2× a year to keep the roots small enough for its pot. And the small pot kept the tree small. I was wondering if something like that was possible on my plants.

    I'm aware of some methods to identify males before 12/12 but I wasn't sure how big they'd be before I could do that. I guess I could take clones and put them in 12/12 to see.
    Btw I transplanted the smaller seedling today, there was some root tearing. Ill see how they look in the morning.
  10. If root pruning is an actual thing, then it might be something you can do. What I imagine they mean is cutting off the roots that are circling around in the bottom of the pot. But if you use cloth pots, the roots are automatically air pruned when they grow out to the edge of the pot. When plants become a decent size, they can show their sexual maturity by growing protoflowers even during veg cycle. They'll be really small, but look at your node intersections and you might see small green sacs growing. If it's a female there will be a pistil growing out of a calyx, but if it's a male then it will be a plain little green bulb. Forcing clones into flower is always a surefire way to tell, just make sure to label your clones :) Some root damage is unavoidable when digging a plant out of the ground. That seedling might be put back by a few days, but just make sure to water it regularly (not overwater), and it should bounce back. Patience is key.
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