Just curious are you runing off 1 600watt light? and when you say you can wire a couple fans to 1 adaptor , how ? just take the wire from the fan and electrical tape it to the adaptor wires ?
400W lamp. And to wire lots of fans to one power adapter, all you do is keep adding fan wires to your adapter until it has used all the available amps. Example: 5A adapter can run about nine or ten 3" fans.
My box is 3'x5'x6' and I have 90 cfm coming in, fresh from under my home. I have a 90 cfm cooling the light, and I have a 90 cfm sucking air out, along with a plennum over ceiling fan to exhaust hot air, and it's still to hot. Any suggestions??
CFM means nothing if your fan cant overcome static pressure. They have PC fans with the same CFM as my inline can-fan, but a PC fan cant pump air through ducting/pipe more then a foot or so. After a foot of ducting, the CFM drops 80% in most PC style fans. It will be tough to get a good fan that can cool a 400W lamp for less then $100 if you have to run ducting. This type of fan will do a great job pumping air through several feet of ducting: These types of fans are only good if you dont need to hook it to any ducting:
I hate quoting large graphics post, but I'm lazy, sorry,lol. The large white Vortex fans are tested for airflow thru the diameter that they are specified for. So putting any reducers in line, say a 6 to 4 inch will cut that in half, probably more so. As well any sharp turns or even slow curves for that matter, the slower curve the better. The silver in-line duct fans are more for at the end of the ducting/tubing then at the beginning and were mainly created to assist with weak air flow into distant parts of a house. PC fans are measured as stand alone with no ducting at all with zero resistance. By adding any ducting to it you at best get 30%. I build high end PC's and servers that are all water cooled and require lots of cool air flow, even running them thru a radiator reduces them by 50% and ducting even more. So if I use PC's fans for a grow/veg box I at least triple it taking into account humidity. My 2 cents dewave
sweet... looks like thats what i'll use.. been meaning to ask you that. You also are the reason im going DWC.... your grows are great. IM going to try two plants in one 10 gal rubbermaid and see how that works... if the plants dont do well together then i will go to two seperate buckets. Is a 400w lamp too much in a garage cabinet closet type of space (something like 72"x30"x20" or whatever order that goes in... lol)? EDIT: just checked price on those nutrients.... lol... With the lucas formula you dont use the Grow... but it cost almost jsut as much to buy a gal of micro and a gal off bloom as it is the buy the three pack... but then you end up with a gallon of somehting you can't use? lol
yo rumple, do you use any nutrients at the very end of your grow cycle to increase yeild or anything like that? my copy of your set up is almost done and i was just curious if there is any last minute things i can do to increase yeild?
The only thing I use at the end of my grow is pure h2o. I stick to the Lucas formula the whole way. dragit, my grow is the same size and is located in the garage. I use a 400W lamp.
I got asked why I used so much CO2 at my local welding shop. Just replied 'Damn wife and her soda machine.' Make a jab at women to any man interrogating you, they'll laugh it off and forget what they asked.
Thats a beautiful setup some real macgyver stuff goin on in this thread. That Herb looks like fire too. I was wondering how u have ur res steup? and how big is ur clone box I just read a few of ur threads and don't recall seeing the dimensions. +rep
Great setup dude, it was your thread that convinced me to go for the lucas formula. I'm getting the clones tomorrow, the nutes are mixed and in the bubble buckets. My only concern is that my tap water is at 150ppm. I adjusted the ph down after adding nutes to approx 5.8. This morning I checked it again and it had risen to about 6.8. What could be causing this? Thanks, NetworkGuy
The first investment I bought when I started to grow indoors was a RO system. A nice osmosis system can be had on Ebay for around $100. You will save that in bottled water the first year easy. It makes it close to 0ppm clean. Better then any bottled water I tested. Watch the auctions and save big time on a killer system. The system below goes for $84.50 with $42.50 shipping. I bought the same one from the same vendor. Save $20 if you watch the auction (no one ever bids on them) During veg my PH climbs. So I mix at 5.6 PH. It will stop climbing after a few days and land around 6.0 to 6.2 During flowering the PH tends to go down daily. So I compensate the other way. ThatNetworkGuy, hydroponic feeding is tricky enough. Don't add to the problem by using hard water. I know folks use tap water with great success, but I advise against it big time. Thanks for the kind words. R.
I got a response from Lucas on the ''ask lucas" thread. He said not to worry about my level of hard water. Im going to use using store bought RO water for the addback anyways to avoid complications. p 22 of 'ask lucas' thread: " dont worry about TDS below 300@.7 conversion.. thats 214ppm on a .5 meter.." Mine is 150 on the .5 meter, I should be ok. Thanks for the response, NetworkGuy
Hey Rump, Does the type of TDS meter that u use matter, the reverse osmosis, and in line and dual line, <-- which kind is the best for someone starting out, I've only ever used a soil medium so I don't have any idea what to use for a TDS? And again quality grow and Room definetely inspiring... Peace __________________
You can't go hydro without a PH meter. Ph changes alot (sometimes daily). I have a total of five different PH meters. I had more, but I tossed out the real cheap-o's. The ones that are $14 are worthless. You get what you pay for. I have two Hanna meters and one monitor: The Hanna HI-98129 combo (the black one below) is great for TDS/EC, but with most Hanna meters the PH readings seem to drift all over the damn place. I cailbrate all my meters before ever grow. The HI-98128 PHEP (red one) works ok, but it takes a while to get a reading and never agrees with any of my other gages. The three Hanna gages I have never agree on PH (ever). The monitor (I can't find the exact picture, but it's in one of my grow pictures), was great for two grow cycles. It died half way through the third. The Milwaukee SM101 is a great PH meter. It is very low tech though. You have to calibrate your temp knob every time you use it to get a correct temperature adjusted reading. Most other meters will do that for you. I have to say, this meter gives you a reading as soon as it hits the nutrient. The EXTECH PH100 is the one I use most. It agrees with the Milwaukee and gives fast results. I did have to replace the probe one time in the two years I have owned it. It costs more then half the total price of the whole meter. It has never been wrong about PH (like the Hanna). Most the meters above will cost you $70 or more. Every company makes a high end and a low end meter line. Buy one good one. TDS/EC is important to most hydro growers, except me. I use the Lucas formula. I don't do "add back", I dump every two weeks and make a new batch. The Hanna combo meter works real good for the TDS/EC. I use it to check my RO water. It lets me know when to change my filters. EXTECH makes a combo meter. I had one and dropped it bad. It broke and I never replaced it. Hope that helped, R
Ya that helped alot thanx R. I have a ph meter, but just wan't sure about the tds. I saw some hanna meters on e-bay 4 a good price but not sure if I wanna go through them. Im probably gonna start making the system and do another soil grow so I have the time to do things right, what do u mean by add back - reusing same solution??? Is the lucas a just add water solution?? Thanx ur threads r some of the most informative on hydro I've found... Peace