Help with Unusual yellowing of older growth + rusting inner ridges (PICS)

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by Crushdavid, Jan 27, 2011.

  1. What is your experience level? Novice

    Your Equipment:
    .1) Type and wattage of lights. 400W CMH
    .2) Distance from tops? 20"
    .3) Reflector type? batwing
    .4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? yes
    .5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? yes

    Your medium:
    .7) Specific brand and type of soil - Roots Organics w/ indonesian guano, EW castings, dolomite lime, rock dust, blood meal
    .8) Size of container - 2.25gal

    Your nutrients and water:
    10) Source of water? Tap - pH 8.5 w/o adjustment
    11) Method of checking water ph. liquid dropper tester
    12) Method of adjusting water ph. Vinegar
    13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. No Ferts
    14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? Watering every 3 days
    15) Any additives or tea's? yesterday first watering with some ewc, fungi, and molasses
    16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate?
    17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph?
    18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray?

    Your growroom:
    19) Indoors or outdoors? indoor
    20) What size of closet, room or hut? tent in closet
    21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? 75F day 70F night - RH=50%
    22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? no

    Your strains:
    3 Northernberry, 1 Blueberry, 1 Northernlights :hippy:

    Hey all,

    slowly developing with the lower leaves, new growth seems healthy and I see visible daily changes (not stunted growth).

    Please identify, I put a topsoil of EWC on with my last watering just in case of a N deficiency.

    Strange thing is, 4/5 of my plants are doing this, while my last one looks totally healthy and green on its first leaf set.

    The second to last and the last picture are of the same plant/same leaf but 24 hours later (I plucked it to get a good pic while my light was on)
     

    Attached Files:

  2. #2 cocowheats, Jan 28, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 28, 2011
    if it looks and acts like nitrogren def. but isn't, then its probably nutrient lock out...gotta flush with straight water then...OR your soil ph is off which is causing lockout...test your runoff ph next watering(ph is probably off due to the custom soil mix)...It's a little harder to drop the ph if it's due to the medium's content opposed to nutes you added w/water to a nute-less medium....

    Dolomite lime CAN cause ph probs...though it's usually added to level/stabilize them.

    Bottom line, start at the runoff ph because ph is the most common misdiagnosed culprit...and typically looks like nitrogen def.

    GL
     
  3. Bottom line, start at the runoff ph because ph is the most common misdiagnosed culprit...and typically looks like nitrogen def.

    GL[/QUOTE]


    Perfectly, correct.
     
  4. #4 KronicDreamz, Jan 29, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 29, 2011
    I have the same pronlem i think im new to this forume new too growing all together not blazing just the whole grow i just posted on this i dont know how u can pull it tp so u can take a look at it i think it turned out to be my ph levels locked out and i added blood meal if u can find it tags are kronicdreamz,sick plant yellow but ya dud my plant looks horrible so watch out with n toxicixity i think thats what mine got the thread naame is
    {{{{ sick plants pics includedhelp b4 i mess them up }}}}check it out if u can find it and if u fixs urs let me know what u did so i could keep it in mind
     
  5. Didn't figure you had one but, if you have a EC/TDS/PPM pen of some sort, then test your runoff with that also....extremly high ppm's would suggest lockout also...just cause the ph is ON doesn't mean it isn't lockout still.

    Flushing with good ol'H20 never hurt much either(multiple times even)....long as you don't OVER water...
     
  6. en doing a flush i want to do double as mouch water as i would usually use or till the waters runs clear and then drain maybe set in sun to dry is that all that i have to watch for or how do i keep from over watering if I'm literally drowning my baby And I have done it the way i mentioned above and it did fine no sign of wilting/shock but idk if i did this correct and a i dont have a pen to test ppm:smoke:
     
  7. #7 cocowheats, Jan 31, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 31, 2011
    Overwatering would be like(example) you flushed right now and 12 hrs later you did it again...that would cause them to droop from too much water/to little oxygen too roots...what you did is fine!......pot plants like to dry up quite a bit before they get water....so over watering ocurs when they are plenty moist and you decide to flood again and again more or less....you keep your plants SWIMMING and that is overwatering...you would know! They would droop like mfers leaving you going "wtf, I just watered!"

    So what I meant by flushing multiple times...I would have flushed pretty hard till I got the ph of the water I was running through(So I would have tested my water ph beforehand and flushed till I was at about that on the runoff)...I would wait a few days(or till soil is reletively dry) and possibly repeat....I didn't mean flush them 3-4 times in a row, yet you could long as you don't keep them swimming like i described above....Keeping them swimming(wet as hell ALLLL the time) is overwatering! Anything else they oughta take just fine.

    Typically, double your water is about right for a good flood.

    And without a ph meter/pen(using test kits...right?), life will be a biotch...or damn near....Well, at times like these at least....ph with tds/ec or ppm reading is also a life saver.

    Did I clarify well enough?...I just woke and toked soooo...Let me know, lol.
     
  8. I don't think I need a flush quite yet.

    I have some developments however:

    I really appreciate everyone taking the time to respond to my query; I guess all I can say is thanks! This is my second attempt at growing, first one for 55g off of one plant that was mostly healthy.

    My aim was to solely add water for the majority of the grow, hence the multitude of amendments. I assure you, I am no expert grower but I have a pretty decent knowledge of soil/the biological/physical systems in play (Thank you undergrad in Water and Soil Science) and really appreciate everyone's help and opinions.

    I have 5 plants in 2gal pots, and I am waiting for them to sex before I re-pot them in 5gal containers for the remainder of the grow.

    The issue is that the potential ladies are showing perhaps different problems (when I mixed the amendments into the soil it is possible the chance is always there that I mixed it ineffectively, leading to "hot spots" of certain additives).

    The drainage holes of the plant showing the signs of wilting (Picture 2) smell a little swampier than the others, but not gross..

    I would like to post some pictures and some information to go along with those pictures to obtain information from those more knowledgeable (potentially you!) than myself in where to proceed from here.

    They are all ~28days (4weeks) old.

    [​IMG]
    Top View of Blueberry

    [​IMG]
    Lowest leaf of Blueberry

    [​IMG]
    One more of the Blueberry
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    NorthernBerry 1 - Notice the yellowed first set of leaves, and the beginning of yellowing of the second set from the tip in very slightly
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    NorthernBerry 2 - this one is the only one displaying the downward curling leaves (overwatering unlikely?) as well as the lower yellowing moving up
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    NorthernBerry 3 - The most vibrant of the northernberry, still yellow coloration on the lower leaves
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Plant 5 is a Northern Lights, Very tips of the lowest leaves JUST NOW starting to show slight issues like the NB2 lower leaves. Seems to be just growing slow.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Group SHOTS:
    [​IMG]
    Bottom: Blueberry
    Top Left: NorthernBerry #3
    Top Right: Northern Lights

    [​IMG]
    Bottom: NorthernBerry #2
    Top Left: NorthernBerry #1
    Top Right: NorthernBerry #3

    Any other information that I have left out is mistaken and I would love to clarify anything if you have any questions.
     
  9. the first blueberry is 100% healthy looking to me..the first leaves almost ALWAYS fall off in that exact manner...long as that's the only prob.

    The same COULD go for the northerns but probably not...looks burned on those...a LITTLE burn never killed nobody, but let that sign be your warning...the custom soil mix CAN burn you.

    The new pics helped ALOT.
     
  10. Can anyone give me some advice of where to go from here?

    My NL leaves are starting to taco and develop similar lower leaves to the blueberry!
     
  11. What are looking for as far as advice?...If your having probs with the NB's, they look burned, which means flush...Blueberry looked fine.

    So you ask, "where to go now"...more like where do you want to go?

    Your question was answered so what are you asking now?

    You may just be overly concerned.
     
  12. Burn cut back on the FEED if any and go water, then hit with a good dose of N and you should be good. Don't sweat the small stuff bro keep growing peace!
     
  13. #13 KronicDreamz, Feb 3, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 3, 2011
    can some1 help me with 2 of my baby's its a little sick idk whats wrong some advise plzzzz it would be greatly appreciated thanks:confused::confused::confused:

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    thanks and 1 more to look at below again thanks is this nitrogen diff iv read it could have this effect like the plant's below again im:confused::confused::confused:not sure so help is greatly appreciated this is 1 of my first grows and first forum iv joined so plz be kind

    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    THANKS:D:smoke::D:smoke:
     
  14. /\ /\ /\ /\
    1.KronicDreams, your pics didn't upload.
    2.This is what we call "thread hijacking".
    3.More people would(probably) help if this was YOUR thread.

    Just word of warning there....To help you avoid being flammed and what not...

    Redirect me to your pics somehow(new thread...or not) and I would happily give my input and/or share my experience.
     
  15. ther should br link or all add this same post my newest blog post and I'm sorry like iv mentioned I'm very new to this thread stuff but if u wouldn't mind helping me out and stuff I'm looking for some one to help a noob out iv done a lot of research and stuff sorry to who's evers thread this was no disrespect I'm from the calles and i dont believe on stepping on tows and being a man of his word so like i said spenca and that was a stupid nube mistake so coco if u can send me a pm and the link in sig should be to my blog entries all go post a new 1 now or is it better to make a new thread and link it to the only reason i resorted to using some1 Else's thread is cause iv maid several and no response to them why
     
  16. based on the leaf twisting I see looks like a PH issue to me, which always leads to other problems. Make sure your PH is good and then go from there.
     
  17. Well only my blueberry had the twisted leaves which I read was a genetic characteristic of blueberry seedlings.

    I repotted 3 and one died. They all had root rot and it stopped they're growth and nutrient uptake. On the repot, the roots of the plants with rot were even smaller root balls than when I moved them out of solo cups.. :/

    Time will tell how they improve. I will post updates with my methods once I see if these root rotted plants can readjust to new soil with extra perlite
     
  18. #18 cocowheats, Feb 7, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 7, 2011
    Run some sensizyme or a product similiar if you have root rot...it will help break it down and break down the conjumbled nutes helping prevent lockout also(mainly fights root rot!)....If what you've played with has rot, then there is deff. more that you aren't seeing.

    Waveslyder said it, twisted leaves means ph is off...Now I don't know if the blueberry has a genetic tendency to twist...but twist is the tall tale sign of ph being off...which leads to lock out and more/worse....I wouldn't think they'd twist this early if it was genetics, but don't quote me...never grew blueberry.

    GL
     

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