help with co2

Discussion in 'Grow Room Design/Setup' started by idahobuds, May 1, 2006.

  1. ok i just built a new box for my lowryder's the box if 1.5'x1.5'x3' grow area it has a carbon filter and a 80 cfm fan the intake is pasive my ligh is a 150w hps remote ballast i can fit 9 one gallon container in the area and both are 1' tall so my grow area is 3 feet which = 50w a squared foot my question is what is the mathamatical equation to get cubic feet to psi as my 15 pound co2 tank is in psi and i need cu. ft. so i can get the right ppm of co2 my plan is to have the light one 21 hours and off for 3 hours in which time the lights are off the plants will be automatically watered when the lights are on every 3 hours the exhaust fan will turn off and the gas will come on for 15 min. and fan will stay off for 1 hour if you think this grow will work please let me know and ill post a full grow of it but right now in need to know how to convert cu. ft. to psi thanks to everyone idahobuds and if any one knows mdanzig and other from OG i would like to get back in touch thanks idahobuds
  2. you should have a regulator that shows ft3/min or L/min. I don't think you can convert PSI to a volume. PSI is merely the pressure being placed on the vessel. Given a large tank and a large pipe, I can flood an entire building with CO2 while still having very little PSI. Conversely, I can trickle it in with a small pipe and barely raise the ambient PPM and still have a huge PSI.

    I would recommend a good CO2 sollenoid and regulator combo like THIS ONE and a GREAT controller like THIS ONE. Believe me, the money spent is well worth the lack of hassle and guesswork.
  3. hey thanks up4anything i guess im going to buy the controler and regulater in a week but intell then im going to plant my seeds in 16 oz cups so i bet ill have a week without the new equipment but when there first started i dont think it will matter but i hope my lowryders will put more weight on in the end with the added c02 ps do you use this equipment and if so do you like it it sound pretty easy to use and what the heck 290.00 more dollars to make everything ideal sounds pretty good to me next round ill go hydro and then ill have the most expensive box fo its size /maybe get a 250 or 400 light thanks and keep in touch idahobuds
  4. just thought i would let everyone know im starting beans tonight so i hope i have good luck with my lowryders first time trying them idahobuds
  5. I use CO2 for all my grows and I love it. You should be able to do a basic system for under $290

    HERE's a REGULATOR for $130

    now all you need is a tank from a welding supply place (small ones for $50, large ones for $100)

    If you want to get super-efficient usage and not have a headache doing it, use a controller. CAP builds (IMHO) the best there are and they are very affordable. HERE'S THE ONE I USE and i'ts only $160. It controlls the cooridnatio between my lighting, temperature, and Co2. Very easy to setup and use.

    If you really want to get going on it, get a SunTube/CoolTube and then you can vent and cool your lamp in a closed system. This provides the advantage of keeping your bulb cooler (for longer life of the bulb), your box cooler, and allows you to get the light right close to your plants. Closer light = better yield. Again, at the same place, COOL TUBE it comes pre-wired and all you do is add a Vortex and some ducting and you're good to go.

    If you need further explaination on a "closed ventilation" system, let me know.
  6. my box is only 1.5ftx1.5ftx3ft so getting ducting for a cool tube is probally out of the question but i will be doing the controler and regulater ill but it next week as for a co2 tank i have a 15# tank of co2 now and how long do you think it will last me and pease expain the contained system im thinking about making a new box with a 400 w hps/mh idahobuds
  7. That box isn't big enough. 3 ft high? Figure a decently sized container is about 10-12" high. So now you have only 2 feet left. I understand you're doing lowryder, but where are you going to put the light? If you're using an HID light, then you would need at least a foot between the top of your plant and the light. Plus, you would need room for the light. If you can keep your lowryder less than 1.5 inches tall, then you're in business.

    I would recommend a taller cab. They are easier to work it, easier to keep cooler, and you can actually fit a plant in there :)
  8. For a closed venting system, you would need one fan to keep your lamp cool and another for the periodic exhausting of your growing box. The lamp is best done with a SunTube (or cool tube if you want to spend extra money for no reason). You duct fresh air from outside your cab into one end of the tube and then duct out the other end of the tube to a Vortex fan outside of your cab. This way, you keep the air flowing over the bulb constantly. It keeps your box cooler and your bulb will last longer. The air never mixes with the box air and you can vent it (the cab) less often.

    Because you're venting the box less often, you can squirt CO2 all over it for longer periods of time. If you use a controller like the one I linked to above, you just set a max temp and humidity and when either of those are reached, it activates a secon fan that pulls hot air our and fresh air in and, at the same time, the controller cuts off the CO2 so your not pissing it away while you're venting.
  9. at first my plan was to use 1 gallon pots but after much reading im thinking of doing a rubbermaid tub a dwc of sorts what do you guys think i should do please post all your thoughts and reasons behind it thanks idahobuds
  10. I like DWC quite a bit. They're super simple and very little work. It's kind of a no brainer way to get good growth.
  11. well a/c unit goes in tonight and im ordering a dwc this week and some strawberry cough seeds fem. im going to atempt a monster strawberry plant in a dwc useing the Lst method after my lowryder grow wish me luck guys idahobuds

Share This Page