Help needed with yellowing Blue Dream

almost 40 days old and youve never fed them besides what comes in FFOF?

i think they are hungry and ready to be given nutrients.

 

I agree and think they are hungry but think the problem could also be the pH., I would try to get it closer to 6.5.
You may very well have the nutrients it needs locked out at 6.8... I have a chart here someplace, but you should still start feeding them. I use ffof and start feeding after 2-3 weeks.

 

I'd say start 'em off with 1/4 recommended dosage. The dosages listed for my nutrients is for the entire week, not each feeding and yours may be the same.

*edit: is that the pH. of the runoff water or of the water you give it? Need to know the runoff pH.

 

Personally, I think flushing would only make it worse. By adding plain water, you will have to wait days for it to dry before you can give it any nutrients.

I would adjust the pH. of the fert mix to 6.5 and give it enough so you get about 15% runoff and measure the pH. of the runoff water (you should always do this, the plentiful runoff helps prevent lockout caused by salt buildup). a TDS or EC meter would be most helpful, it would tell you how much nutrients are in the soil in parts per million.
Calibrate your pH. meter if it requires it, don't need that screwing with ya.

That may not be the right answer but is what I would do.
Foliar feeding might be a "right now" option if you're waiting for it to dry but I don't do that so know little about it. I don't think you want to spray it with synthetic nutrients. Read your base nutrient bottle(s) and see if it has a foliar-feed option.

I think there is a thread someplace called 'sick plants, ask here' or something like that. I just don't know a lot about plant problems.

It looks like a magnesium deficiency, your base nutrients may contain enough but I usually need to add a little extra cal-mag to the fert mix.

magnesium deficiency:

 

I can't imagine how the pH. of ffof could get so out of whack if you've been adjusting the water you've been feeding it with no nutrients up until just now. I would think about how that might have happened. Do you have a crappy pH. pen? Did you calibrate it properly? Mine just resets back to factory calibration at the press of a couple buttons, invest in a quality pH. pen and a TDS/EC meter to measure the dissolved solids (nutrients) and record this info (pH/ppm) in a spreadsheet each time you water/feed. both what goes in and comes out. pH. is very important, as you can see and believe this to be the problem. It's locked out.
Even at 37 days, there should be enough nutrients in there so it don't look like that.

Sooo... First, you really need someone more knowledgeable than I am about how to fix it.
I would say you need to get some food in it and get the pH. back to normal.
Foliar feeding should get some nutrients in it pretty quick but, again, I don't do it and don't know how to tell you. I don't know if you can foliar feed you base nutrients or not... read on the label.

The problem with the pH. being so far out of whack is that those tenths are significant to the plant and normally don't want to adjust it more than a few tenths per week... but this ain't exactly 'normal circumstances'.

I wish someone else would chime in here.
I know they're not autos, but I would try asking this guy. Loki really seems to know his stuff.
Need help with autos? Welcome

 

honestly, ive always been under the impression that ph in soil is not as important as most people make it seem to be.

could be wrong (and i am an organic grower) but i havent ph'd my nutes in quite a long time unless theyre so far out of range that i HAVE to. my water is slightly alkaline and most nutrients are usually slightly acidic. recently my tap has been 7.6-7.8 on my meter and after my dose of nutes it tests at 6.5-6.9. if its close enough its close enough... the soil has buffers (especially ffof, that soil has added lime) so whatever the ph of the water going in is not extremely relevant and even the run off (ive seen people get huge swings in their runoff but plants seem otherwise ok!) but this may not be the case with chemical nutes (definitely not hydro!)

if you really want to test the soil ph a better way would be to grab a fistful of dry soil and mix it (maybe equal parts or so) neutral ph (7.0) water and shake the crap out of it in a sealed jar. the buffers will start to act and when the mud settles to the bottom test that top layer of water and youll get a more accurate reading. it would be a good time to use a TDS and EC meter on the water as well to get a better picture of your soil quality.

for run off though i do use a tds meter pretty much every time so i can be sure that what im giving my plants is being consumed by them and not contributing to salt build up and what not.

 

Do you grow in an actual soil-based mix?
I honestly don't know man, it may not be the pH. at all but that's my best guess.

 

FFOF isnt soilless, its a natural mostly organic potting soil.

regardess, even if it were soilless your 5.5 ph runoff would be acceptable, imo.

id start them on a feeding schedule and they will likely immediately start to perk up.

the reason i think your ph is ok is because for you stage of vegetative growth your plant is showing all the classic signs of being hungry, mostly for nitrogen and magnesium and some other micro nutrients. you mentioned you though maybe had an iron def/lockout but if you look at the chart posted above (youre in soil so thats what you want to be looking at) 5.5 ph would be well within range for roots to absorb iron, Fe on the chart so you may be deficient in iron but i highly doubt that youre locked out in anything, including iron.

that is what the symptoms are telling my at least and i could be wrong. i would still do the soil test i mentioned. if the ph really is that low (im not thinking it is) i dont think there is really much you can do about it at this point (again could be wrong) other than maybe adding more buffer into the soil like more dolomite lime as a top dressing, the problem is it takes a long time to work into the soil and also break down as i dont think lime is effective immediately which is why its cooked in the soil with other amendments. thats not to say its not possible and that people dont do it.

but like i said, im not thinking that is the case here and they just look on the verge of starved to me. its really odd that FFOF would have such a large ph swing like this especially without adding any nutrients.

try testing your runoff for PPM with a TDS meter and see what that says.

 

I thought it was all peat and other stuff.
Thanks man, I think I'm more concerned about it than he is. lol.

 

here is an ingredient list i pulled from another website for FFOF

Ingredients: Composted forest humus, sphagnum peat moss, Pacific Northwest sea-going fish emulsion, crab meal, shrimp meal, earthworm castings, sandy loam, perlite, bat guano, granite dust, Norwegian kelp, and oyster shell (for pH adjustment).

so there is some peat but its mostly composted humus (humus is soil, latin term) and it should already be ph'd to roughly 6.5.

 

22 days old, and have been feeding since 2 weeks old. I am running 400w HPS, I had MH but took out since I have a flowering auto in the same tent







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Just gonna throw this out there...

I bought a bag for Fox Farm Ocean this season to start some tomatoes and my plants went turned yellowish purple. I have a friend who has the same issue. We were thinking it was a bad batch. I ended up shaking away the soil and transplanting them into Dr Earth black label and they made a slow recovery.