Help needed to identify problems with yellowish pale-green growth. Leaves with rusty necrotic spots.

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by siculone, Mar 18, 2023.

  1. Hello everybody and thanks in advance!

    I'm growing Cookies Kush and Pineapple Chunk from clones in Biobizz allmix soil under 600W Hps.
    Just transplanted into 14 L plastic pots and transferred the plants from veg to bloom tent. The plan is to switch to 12/12 as soon as possible.

    Ph around 6.5
    Temperature 20-27 C
    Have been watering every 2-3 days with Biobizz Grow formula according to feeding schedule 1ml/l.
    Cal-mag every other watering.
    I have my own drilled well and a bit insecure of the water quality. The Ec is around 250 ppm and Ph 7.3 without anything added.
    Have some fungus gnats but no infestation!

    So as you can see on the pictures, pale green, yellowish new to middle growth. Rusty necrotic spots and areas on leaves. Purple stripes on stems and purple petioles.

    The last picture is on a motherplant which exhibits the same problems as her clones.

    Help much appreciated!
  2. Sorry but there seems to be problems uploading photos and only managed to upload one photo!
  3. upload_2023-3-18_15-9-31.png
    This is how the leaves look like...
  4. another...
  5. #6 Deleted member 1148562, Mar 18, 2023
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 18, 2023
    IMO - If you have fungus gnats then you should re-evaluate your watering regimen. Any other problems you may be facing will only be compounded with the fly infestation.
  6. Thanks, I'll consider that!
  7. Is this your first grow?

    Is this your first grow with this well water?
  8. This is my second grow whith this water.
    Saw the same problems the first time but not as much as this time!
  9. So second grow?

    I'm trying to figure out how much detail I need to cover here. Most new growers jump right to "nutrient deficiency" when there are issues, before first considering the many abiotic stress variables that affect plant root nutrient adsorption.
  10. Yes this is my second grow ever!
    I've looked through all the common charts regarding nutrient deficiencys and to my understanding it leans towards a cal-mag issue! Please enlighten me about the abiotic stress variables you had in mind?
  11. #12 waktoo, Mar 19, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2023
    I too would be concerned about your water quality. I'd like to know your thoughts on the situation. What about it's chemical parameters that you've shared concerns you, and why?

    So you've recently transplanted. What sized containers were those plants in prior to transplant, and how long were they in there? Did they look like they do now, prior to transplant?

    Have you been using the Bio-Fish formula? Or the microbial innoculant?
  12. Thanks for the feedback!

    I just ordered a water analys test from a lab to get mineral levels specified!
    I live on a ridge, the mountain is shallow so this could maybe contribute to high mineral content.
    Suspecting moderately high Calcium levels.
    When I've run my humidifier for a while, I can see white deposits on the bottom.
    Ph levels have been fluctuating between 7.7-6.9 during the year. Due to the autumn rains i suppose!
    I'm using Biobizz citric acid to lower Ph levels. Run offs seems ok!

    I've been using Biobizz grow, not the Fishmix! I will switch to fishmix for the next run!
    For microbes, I use "Plant Success Great White Premium Myccorhizae".

    When the clones had rooted, 1 l pots for 14 days! Then 4 l pots for shit..,20 days I just discovered!
    Thought it was 14 days! They weren't rootbound though!
    And then transplanted to 14 l pots three days ago!
  13. #14 waktoo, Mar 19, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2023
    OK. Getting your water tested was something I was going to suggest. I suspect your water is carrying a significant amount of alkalinity. High alkalinity levels cause soil solution pH to rise over time. This affects nutrient availability in the media solution. This can happen "quickly" in smaller volumes of potting media.

    Can you send me a link to the lab that's doing the analysis?

    What kind of testing meter are you using?
  14. Feels like your actually on to something here!
    Thanks for elaborating on this!

    I suppose you don't understand swedish so I translated the test description in google translate:

    This is our most complete analysis package for you with your own well!
    Before selling or in connection with the purchase of a home with its own well, a complete analysis of the water should be carried out. This is in the interest of both the seller and the buyer to avoid future questions, misunderstandings or disputes. Our water samples maintain high quality with fast and safe test results.
    The Trygga Hus package partly includes the Swedish Food Agency's guidelines for normal control and contains all analyses, both microbiological and chemical, that are needed for a normal control of a well. The package also contains several important heavy metals and also a radon control.
    Scope of the package:

    Physical/chemical analyses: COD(Mn), conductivity, pH, alkalinity, turbidity, color, odor
    Anions: Fluoride, Nitrate, Nitrogen Nitrate, Chloride, Sulphate
    Nutrient salts: Ammonium, Ammonium nitrogen, Nitrite, Nitrite nitrogen, Phosphate, Phosphate phosphorus
    Metals: Iron, Calcium, Potassium, Copper, Magnesium, Manganese, Sodium, Hardness (total), Aluminium, Antimony, Arsenic, Lead, Cadmium, Chromium, Nickel, Selenium, Uranium
    Microbiological analyses: Cultivable microorganisms at 22°C (3 days), Escherichia coli, Coliform bacteria.
    The analyzes are carried out by Eurofins, which is an accredited, independent laboratory.
    Leave the water sample at your nearest Eurofins drop-off point.
  15. Ha! You're correct, I do not speak Swedish. I appreciate the translation. That's a good test.

    Another thing. If you're drawing water from a well, it's probably pretty "cold".

    Do you offer the temperature of your irrigation water going into the medium any consideration?

    What surface material is directly under your tent bottom? Concrete/tile will draw warmth from your pots.

    It's pretty important to make sure that your media temperature is stable, especially when microbes are heavily involved in the process of making nutrients plant available. When media temp's start dropping below ~15C, rates of microbial nutrient cycling (especially nitrogen) are severely reduced, and plants don't adsorb them efficiently. 22-24C is a nice target range to keep all of that rolling along nicely.

    At what altitude do you live?
  16. I take the water through the tap with heating system before, so water temps are 21-24 when watering!

    There's a wooden floor under the tent. I have a 5 cm styrofoam board as insulation inside the tent and a large heating mat on top of that covering the whole area set to 21 degrees, so medium temp is in the range!
    But only in flowering tent though! The veg tent medium temperature is colder. Had a colder period here up north so the temperature in the medium was down to 16-17 occasionally!

    Does the plants look a bit hungry on the pictures? Maybe do to nitrogen lockout?
    Didn't think that new growth was affected by to little nitrogen!

    I live on 6600 m altitude!
  17. Hehe, just kidding!
    Around 200 m above sea level! ;)
  18. So you didn't use any Fish-mix when your plants were in the veg' tent? Just the Bio-Grow?

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