Help needed asap please!!!

for 1...ph is too low...you want 6.5-6.8...it may (and looks like)over watering..(n) & (m) lockouts include leaf discoloration...let them dry up and then give a 50% nute feeding...

 

you have no signs of a nute overdose, you shouldnt have flushed...not that it hurt but a feeding then a flush..when did your friend last water before you got them and fed and flushed'm...they look lush and health.."usually" looking that healthy and a little top leaf limp is a sign of over/under watering..both over/under have idential early symptoms...i wouldnt worry...let'm dry up..keep the light 12-16 inches from tops and you will be okay...

 

Have u made sure ur ph tester is reading right cause i know it might sound silly. But it could have started over/under watering but the yellowing sounds like you might have a magnesium problem from nutes. I could be wrong but make sure ur tester is reading right.

 

I vegged with hps last grow not gonna hurt her.

 

Magnesium (Mg) deficiency:
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green, the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

 

you wont see a change for a few days...nothing corrects its self over night!!!...just let'm be...could be a little shock from moving...let them dry out...stop watering them...you ask questions...get answers..and dont listen....maybe you should scrap'm...doesnt look like you have the patience to grow...between 2-1-12 and 2-3-12(according to your posts) you've moved them to a new location,fed and flushed twice..if your prob is over watering how do you exspect to see a change..stop giving the damn plants water..LET THEM DRY!!!..once they're FULLY dry(like a desert on top soil)then water with superthrive to replenish nutes you've flushed out the soil and help relieve the stress you're putting them through...

 

Its not a mag defiency.. i have that goin on as we speak.. click the sig and you can see what it looks like.

 

You may wanna listen....you see how happy and healty mine were at that age...

 

Looks healthly and heavily overwatered to me.

 

are they on that hardwood floor growing? if so that could be a prop...check soil temps..if the air temp is 79'(im assuming thats with lights on)then you're roughly mid 60's at night...that hardwood floor gets much colder which in turn keeps the roots too cold..if your roots are in soil temps in the 50's the roots cant absorb...and that will cause that limpness and stagnate growth...place a folded beach blanket or decent size bath towel under the pot(a heating pad on low setting would be great if u got it..so check soil temps..i had that issue and had to raise my whole tent off the ground..

 

yep....its fine...and dont trip...its no bother...they look healthy....no discoloration,leaves are fat and lush...put'm in 12/12...what size pots are they in again

 

Here's a GREAT Marijuana Plant Problem Solving Chart...The info is absolutely fantastic!!! Good luck bro!!!Marijuana Cultivation/Common Plant Problems




< Marijuana Cultivation









Marijuana Cultivation




Introduction – Fundamentals – Seedlings – Vegetative Growth – Cloning – Sexing – Flowering – Harvesting – Curing – Producing Seeds – Pests and Pest Control – Common Plant Problems









Contents
[hide] 1 Common Plant Problems 1.1 Seed 1.1.1 Brittle/White Seed
1.1.2 Green Seed
1.1.3 Small Seed

1.2 Roots 1.2.1 Tight Packed Roots, Curling Around the Edge of Container
1.2.2 Sparse or Insubstantial Roots
1.2.3 Slimy, Smelly Roots

1.3 Stems 1.3.1 Leaning Branches
1.3.2 Thin, Spindly Stalks
1.3.3 Broken Stem

1.4 Leaves 1.4.1 Drooping Leaves
1.4.2 Broad Leaves with Edges Curled Down
1.4.3 Narrow Leaves with Edges Curled Up
1.4.4 Yellowing of the Leaves (from the bottom of the plant upward)
1.4.5 Brown/Purple Spots and/or Dark Green Leaves on Stunted Plant
1.4.6 Brown/Tan/Pale Spots Throughout Leaves
1.4.7 Yellowing Between Leaf Veins
1.4.8 Older Leaves Yellow From the Center Outward, Leaf tips brown progressing inward, pale new growth
1.4.9 Leaves Turn Pale Yellow or White with Green Veins

1.5 Flowers (while on growing plant) 1.5.1 White Pistils Turn Purple/Red/Orange
1.5.2 Flowers are Stunted with Hard Bumps between Pistils
1.5.3 Internode Spacing is Wide and Buds are airy
1.5.4 White Fluffy or Powdery Coating on Buds
1.5.5 Buds Are Small
1.5.6 Buds Aren't Sticky/Resinous

1.6 Harvested Flowers 1.6.1 Crispy Crumbly Buds
1.6.2 Pliable Stems with Dry Bud
1.6.3 Powdery or Whispy Tendrils in Flowers
1.6.4 Buds Smell and Taste Like Hay/Lawn
1.6.5 Buds Burn down to a Hard Black Ash
1.6.6 Harsh Smoke




[edit] Common Plant Problems

The problems that plague growers are myriad so it is difficult to say what the best approach is to this topic. Perhaps the best approach is to make this guide practical for troubleshooting purposes. To this end. You should first find the part of the plant or type of plant material that is showing a symptom that makes you think there is a problem. From there, find the listed symptom that best describes what you are seeing and you will hopefully find the problem and suggested fixes. This section is intended for troubleshooting and diagnosis. If you would like to familiarize yourself with the symptoms of the most common problems then skim seed issues, root issues, ph and water related leaf symptoms, stem issues, and problems with harvested marijuana.

[edit] Seed

Seeds are the first step for a new generation of plants. A problem there, will result in poor performance throughout the grow. The ideal seed is a dark green, almost brown and may have stripes or other markings, it is plump and firm. A slight pressure on the seed will not crush it. These things can make the difference between a small spindly plant and a vigorous healthy plant. A plump particularly ripe seed within a batch indicates improved fast growing genetics and may signify a stronger seed, more likely to survive to maturity.

[edit] Brittle/White Seed

If a slight pressure with your fingertip crushes seeds the seeds are not viable. They are immature. You should move along to other seeds, if you produced these seeds you need to be sure to pollinate the plant early in flowering and to let the seeds grow until they are starting to fall out naturally and are fully ripe and mature.

[edit] Green Seed

A green seed is simply immature. If the seed is firm and doesn't crush easily under a fingertip then it might still be saved if you do not have a dark viable seed to replace it (only use less than ideal seed if you can't avoid it). In order to save a green seed place it inside a damp paper towel in a dark warm place and check every few hours. The color of the seed will darken as it first ripens and it may eventually sprout. You should plant this seed very close to the surface if it sprouts since it may not have the nutrient stores that a fully mature seed would have. With the appropriate attention and care a green seed can achieve a plant with the full potential of the genetics.

[edit] Small Seed

Always choose the largest seeds you can but many plants simply do not produce large seeds. Some strains produce small seed exclusively.

[edit] Roots

Root are... well the root of the plant. Water, nutrients, and hormone supplements will likely be passed up from the roots into the plant proper. You need a strong, healthy, and plentiful root system to be able to pass enough nutrients and to support the plant at its maximum growth rate. Since the root structure isn't usually visible in addition to listing symptoms it is worth pointing out what roots need so you won't have these problems in the first place.

[edit] Tight Packed Roots, Curling Around the Edge of Container

This symptom is often accompanied by less than optimum growth. Your roots simply don't have enough room. Give them some more space by transplanting to a larger container disturbing the root ball as little as possible. Many people massage the bottom and sides of the root ball very gently just enough to untangle the tips but not so much as to actually break the root ball. If when transplanting you see that the roots did not take advantage of the container's horizontal space it means you didn't transplant often enough early on. You should transplant from smaller to larger container. For example, one hempy grow the ideal transplant path involved starting the clone in a small rockwool cube. When root tips were visible this was transplanted to a 16oz plastic cup. After a couple weeks this was transplanted to a half filled 2.5gal hempy bucket. A few days before flowering this was transplanted for the last time by lifting out of the bucket and filling halfway and then setting the complete root ball on top of the new grow medium so the roots could fill the entire bucket.

[edit] Sparse or Insubstantial Roots

This depends on your stage of growth. But generally speaking roots will grow well in a medium with a carefully maintained PH and lots of oxygen. This can be an early sign that you need more oxygenation. Perhaps this is caused by poor drainage in the soil (water pulls air into the pot from the top as it drains down the bottom) or perhaps you should add an air stone to your reservoir in a hydroponic system. Note that oxygen and not air is needed, it is possible to grow with your roots submersed in well oxygenated water all the time.

[edit] Slimy, Smelly Roots

Lack of oxygen has caused a condition known as root rot in which your roots have begun to rot. You can try to save this plant but you should remember that the impact on upon the results of your grow are going to be substantial and you should mentally chock it up as a learning experience at this stage. This will be accompanied by symptoms in the plant vegetable material as well.

In order to try to save the plant you should remove the plant from its container and remove all traces of rotted material from the roots the smell is very strong and will be unmistakable. Rinse the roots thoroughly with clean water and let them dry out. Replace your medium with fresh sterile medium and disinfect your container or use a new one. When the roots are dry transplant to the clean medium and clean container. Most importantly, you need to solve whatever is causing the root rot. If you need an airstone or an additional airstone then add one, remix your soil/medium for better drainage, or make your flood and drain cycles less frequent.

[edit] Stems

Your stems are the trunks of your plant, or your leaf, or your flower. Each and every stem on the plant is important and is essential to the part it connects functioning correctly. People purchasing marijuana often complain about stems in ignorance. Stems contain within them a layer that transports nutrients and another soft pulp that transports water. Because of this stems are almost entirely composed of water weight and weight almost nothing when dried. For the best end result from your harvest, both in potency and quantity you will want nice strong thick stems.

[edit] Leaning Branches

If your branches are leaning down under the weight of your flowers the best thing you can do is tie up the branches. This can be partially avoided by installing a circulating fan in an indoor grow room to simulating the wind, the movement will cause your stems to strengthen.

[edit] Thin, Spindly Stalks

The most common cause of this symptom is lack of light. If plants are not getting enough light they will stretch to the light source so you probably need a bigger light and/or need to move it closer to the plants. Early on this can be partly solved by burying the plant more deeply when transplanting. Roots will eventually grow out of the newly submerged stem. You can also help with this condition by installing a circulating fan, the fan will simulate wind and the movement will strengthen stems. A weak root system may also contribute to this problem.

[edit] Broken Stem

This was probably caused by you trying to the bend the plant to your will (literally). Its okay, don't panic the plant will probably be fine. Just tape the stem back together and support it by tying to a stake if needed to take the pressure off the break while this heals. The plant will heal itself and will have a knot where the break was located. You should allow your plant time to recover before stressing the location. If the break is not completely severed just prop it up and you should not touch it for a week or so.

[edit] Leaves

It is through its leaves that a plant will absorb light from the sun, and utilize it in the photosynthesis process, similar to a solar panel. In general terms leaves could be regarded as sensory organs, lungs and a secondary mouth. A plant's leaves are usually the first to show signs that something is wrong with it. With a few exceptions, damage to the leaf material will not recover after the problem is remedied, you should look to the new growth for signs that the problem is resolved and the overall condition of the plant should show improvement. You will not find an exhaustive list of nutrient deficiencies here only the most common and easily identified if you need advanced deficiency identification you should try asking experienced growers either in person or via the Internet, if posting via the Internet they will need pictures to diagnose the plant with any degree of accuracy.

A common mistake is to mistake a nutrient deficiency with a PH imbalance. A PH imbalance will cause your roots to be unable to take up nutrients and can even damage the roots. Anytime you see a possible nutrient imbalance such as yellowing, necrosis, or other signs of plant damage you should double check your PH before adjusting nutrients.

[edit] Drooping Leaves

The most common causes of this symptom are over and under watering. If you are using a soil grow are you allowing the soil surface to get completely dry before watering again? You should be. If in a hydroponic grow you need to take measures to get oxygen to your roots. Otherwise, water your plant. You probably got scared by all the sites telling you over-watering is the most common beginner mistake (which is true). In a soil grow you will want to fully saturate the pot with water when you water and then let the top inch or two of the soil dry out before drowning her again. As an added note, if you are using soil and it never seems to dry out then you may have purchased a bag of topsoil and not potting soil. This soil will not drain at all. You need a proper soil mix.

[edit] Broad Leaves with Edges Curled Down

This is a sign of excessive humidity. This usually won't harm the plant but less than optimal conditions result in a less than optimal growth and harvest. The width of the leaf is also determined by genetics so broad leaves alone are not a sure indicator of whether your environment is too humid.

[edit] Narrow Leaves with Edges Curled Up

This is a sign of low humidity. Like excess humidity this will not harm the plant but less than optimal conditions result in a less than optimal growth. Genetics again affect leaf broadness as well.

[edit] Yellowing of the Leaves (from the bottom of the plant upward)

This can be a sign of nitrogen deficiency or of over fertilization. If accompanied early by browning and necrosis of the leaf tips then you may be over fertilizing. Adding extra fertilizer when you are already over-fertilizing will kill a plant at any stage of growth so it is safer to flush the plant (if using a pot use three times as much water as your container size) with clean water to remove the excess nutrients. If this helps then excess nutrients are the problem. This could be because you are feeding the plant too much or if later in the growth cycle could be caused by excess nutrient salts building up in the soil. If this does not help then you may need to add more N to your fertilizer mix. These symptoms can also be caused by a PH imbalance.

It is worth mentioning that this symptom will also be seen late in flowering on many strains and is perfectly natural as the plant draws in nutrients from the leaves toward the end of its life. Some growers prefer to give extra nitrogen to slow or prevent this and others like to let nature take its course. Either will produce fine output.

[edit] Brown/Purple Spots and/or Dark Green Leaves on Stunted Plant

This is generally a sign of phosphorus deficiency. You may need to add more phosphorus to your water or you might have a PH imbalance.

[edit] Brown/Tan/Pale Spots Throughout Leaves

You may have a phosphorus deficiency or you may have contracted a pest. Refer to the section on pests for more information on detecting and removing a pest infestation.

[edit] Yellowing Between Leaf Veins

This is likely a potassium deficiency. Add to your water or correct a PH balance. Potassium can also be locked out by salt buildup so if your PH is correct you may try a flush before adjusting nutrients.

[edit] Older Leaves Yellow From the Center Outward, Leaf tips brown progressing inward, pale new growth

Look to trace element deficiency for these problems. Magnesium and Calcium are likely culprits. You can add a bit of dolomite lime to your water (1 tsp/gallon) or add a supplement such as cal-mag, or cal-max, or similar. As always with nute deficiency your problem may actually be a PH imbalance.

[edit] Leaves Turn Pale Yellow or White with Green Veins

This is a sign of iron deficiency. Add more trace nutrients or chelated iron. As always, PH imbalance could also be the culprit.

[edit] Flowers (while on growing plant)

It goes without saying that flowers are what it is all about. They are the only part of the plant that contains high enough concentrations of psychoactive compounds to be used without additional processing after drying. Flowers are also critical to seed production.

[edit] White Pistils Turn Purple/Red/Orange

This is not a problem and means you have done something right. It is common for pistils to change color if they are not pollinated.

[edit] Flowers are Stunted with Hard Bumps between Pistils

Your plant is likely pollinated. The bumps are seeds.

[edit] Internode Spacing is Wide and Buds are airy

This is probably caused by a wide variation between your daytime and nighttime temperature. If using lights indoor you can do a number of things to keep temperature under control. The simplest adjustment is to make sure your lights run at night when it is coolest and are off during the day.

[edit] White Fluffy or Powdery Coating on Buds

Don't mistake this with the sparkling trichomes crystals that will coat the flowers and the surrounding leaves in a fairly uniform manner. This is either mold or it looks whispy and weblike may be a pest. Either way it must be removed from your garden. If a pest refer to pest section but if its powdery mold remove it from your garden immediately. Do NOT smoke or eat moldy bud you could get sick or even die. White powdery mildew is usually caused by too much humidity. On outdoor plants, a good spraying of the plant with a properly mixed neem oil solution will grossly inhibit mold growth. Indoors, the addition of a good quality dehumidifier will likely solve the problem.

[edit] Buds Are Small

The buds are the cumulation of the entire grow and their size will reflect literally everything else. For big buds you need healthy roots to deliver lots of nutrients. You need to deliver proper nutrient levels. You need to supplement CO2 during flowering and have proper ventilization when not supplementing. You need to control temperatures. And you need to prune your plants properly, removing smaller growth with little potential so that your plants may concentrate on the main bud or buds.

[edit] Buds Aren't Sticky/Resinous

The flowers simply aren't ready yet. Let them go a little longer. An early finishing strain will take a full eight weeks of flowering and some strains will take twelve weeks. Give your plants the time they need to mature.

[edit] Harvested Flowers

Many people mistakenly believe that they are done when they harvest their flowers but in many ways the challenge is only started. Now you have a big pile of potentially usable bud and must treat and tend it to completion with out problems.

[edit] Crispy Crumbly Buds

You simply let your bud dry too much and probably too fast.

[edit] Pliable Stems with Dry Bud

There is likely more moisture on the inside. You would depending on just how dry to the bud itself is you could move on to the curing stage using a slow cure draw the moisture out from the center of the plant or let it dry longer before curing.

[edit] Powdery or Whispy Tendrils in Flowers

This is mold/mildew. You need to let your buds get more air. Moldy buds can be post-processed into water hashes or other extracts (though generous freezing is required first)

[edit] Buds Smell and Taste Like Hay/Lawn

Characteristic of immature bud. This can often be partially solved with a long slow cure.

[edit] Buds Burn down to a Hard Black Ash

Too much phosphorus left in the plant during flowering. A slow dry and long cure will help. Next time do a proper flush before harvest.

[edit] Harsh Smoke

Proper slow drying and curing will give a smooth smoke.