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Help My first grow with a CUTTING

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by themasta09, Aug 2, 2009.


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    Yo fellow growers (im not a grower yet its my 1st try)
    I bought a cutting for £25 picture 1,(first day in house.
    Picture 2 taken today..
    and pic 3 is like what is them few leaves doing is that right???? (sorry folks im a 100% complete noobie to this)
    I have it in that pot currently and its around 10 days old maybe a few more.
    I have a 500w light 2 feet above (its tungsten so produces heat so thought that was a good distance) i have put a desk fan (about 1 foot diameter) and got that positioned between the plant and light).
    I have left in light at night and just in window in day.
    I gave it a tiny bit of water last night and it sucked the lot up.
    Erm basically guys what next and when , and any tips.
    (I have some baby bio-if needs be, but i cant buy any other stuff, - so desperate for tips for optimum growing)
    Hey thanks and im loving this site...
  2. better light, better light, better light.

    halogens, incandecents. no good for cannabis production.

    if you can constitantly get clones, dont mind paying 25 pounds for em, and dont mind going straight to bud. look into a 250 watt HPS, or Compact Floros. IMO

    and whats the straws for?

  3. Thanks for reply, Erm well the straws i put there cos them few leaves seem to be drooping.
    But this is my first ever try and i have no prior knowledge whatsoever.

    I really cant purchase any lights or equipment.
    All i have is like general household lamps, and that 500w tungsten light (its an outside securtiy light)

    1-Does the plant look ok? if not what can i do with basically what i have in my house to help?
    2-Are those leaves ok (again im no expert so i dont know if thats how its supposed to be)
    3-When should i feed again? and should i add a bit of 'baby bio'?
    4-I can put it into sunlight all day as i live in safe area, but how long for? and when and how should i replant into bigger pot ready for the '12/12'?

    (also could i take a cutting from this plant to start another and if so when should that be done?

    Many thanks for 1st reply and thanks in advance to anyone who trys to help..
  4. Has the cutting rooted yet? Are you noticing new growth?

    1. The plant looks ok right now but it needs more light unless you can give it at least 8 hours of direct sunlight a day. (Sitting on a window sill, the sun would need too be shining through the window at least 8 hours a day, producing a sun spot on your floor) You will need to get more light. Def. need some more info on this 500W security light. What type of bulb does it have?

    2. The leaves look ok, it looks like a cutting that hasn't rooted yet.

    3. Feed when you are sure the roots are established, at a 1/4 strength - i'm not sure what "baby-bio" is. What is the NPK?

    4. I'm guessing you live in the UK, i'm not sure of the growing season. In the states I would think most outdoor growers have starting producing flowerings by now. It sounds like if you want to produce anything you need to keep it inside. But you need a light, and thats why we need more info on this 500W security lamp.

    Slow down on this taking a cutting from a cutting talk. Let it grow and develop its root system before you start getting into that.
  5. not enough light coverage, overwatering probably as a result of the soil not having anything added to help drain excess moisture, and judging by how short the plant looks in that pot you are either root bound or well on your way to being root bound...among several other issues I'm sure :hello:
  6. Hi thanks for reply, and sorry for asking about cutting, before ive even learned to wlk.
    Guess i should learn to walk b4 i can run, lol.

    1-Baby bio says -compound fluid fert 10.6-4.4-1.7.
    2-Ive just taken those 4 pics so does that help?

    I'll be on the net all nite so i will respond within minutes...and thanks for taking the time to help. :hello:
  7. oops forgot bad

    Thanks 'jd4083' root bound? does that mean its too big for its pot? and how do i do better drainage?

    Attached Files:

  8. #8 jd4083, Aug 2, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2009
    Man, just take a look at the have roots stretching out of the drainage holes in your container by what looks like several inches in're without a doubt rootbound. Typically a rootbound plant has roots that grow in a circular pattern around the bottom of the pot, but since you have such unnecessarily enormous drain holes several of them seem to have escaped

    you need to very gently transplant into a container around twice the size of the current pot and at least add some perlite so that you can get better drainage while you're at it if you're going with a plain soil mix as your medium :wave:

    But above all else...CHANGE YOUR LIGHT! You're using a halogen bulb, which is neither effective nor safe to use indoors. You need the right color temperature and much more lumen coverage...and using an outdoor floodlight indoors is risky at best...
  9. see told you i was a noobie.
    But yes with what youve all said i can see the roots, so tomoz i will go buy a big grow bag and a 5-10l pot and very very carefully transfer.

    As for light all i have is a few of them halogen energy saving bulbs at 11w each, I have about £10 which i could invest in whatever else would be better, open to suggestions.

    And once again many many thanks,

  10. 2 feet is too far above the plant. it'll start to stretch soon. your medium looks like top-soil from your garden, and it looks saturated. that's junk, and you should get it out of there. your roots aren't getting enough air. if you absolutely have to use it, at least put 10-15 perlite in the mix. it sounds like you're gonna end up with a herm. closet light, window sill. you need to put it on some kind of schedule. most folks veg 18/6.
  11. Thanks a couple of questions on what you said...
    what does 'it'll start to stretch soon' mean?
    what does 'nd up with a herm' mean?

    and also closet light?window sill?

    I can actually give it a good 6-8 hours sunlight (weather depending,) then for now under that 500w light for say 6 hours, then in a completeley black cupboard for 6 hours no problem.

    Should i go get like a tomato grow bag and use that soil then transfer to bigger pot tomorrow?

    And again many thanks guys
  12. #12 themasta09, Aug 2, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2009
    I have these 2 pots (i will cut holes for darinage and give it a dam good clean before transfering.
    Just wondered which would be the better 1 and would these pots see the plant through to harvest time?

    p.s the octogan shape pot is 35cm in diameter
    and the square 1 is 50cm.

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  13. hey dude im in the uk 2, and the sun were getting (or should i say not getting) aint gonna cut it although you may have had better sun than me lol, you said you have £10 to use, id say get some cheap cfls as some1 else said that 500watt light is no good, you can get them in uk from £1 in shops

    ps you might even have some already lyin round ur house
  14. don't have a size reference in the pic, are those 2 gal pots? (7.5l) the general rule of thumb for indoor growing is at least 1 gallon for every foot of vertical growth, but it's not a bad idea to plan far enough ahead so that you don't need to transplant more than necessary

    I'd get some 2 or 3 gallon grow bags if I were in your for the light, what's 10 euro, like 15 bucks? That won't get you what you really need, which is either a couple of t5 fluorescents or a cheap integrated ballast 150w HID system (sun system has a great 150w for around $75 here in the states, not sure if you have access to that wherever you are)
  15. #15 themasta09, Aug 2, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2009
    thanks 'mills69' im in staffordshire was just being hopeful about sun lol.

    'cfls' - are them the weird shape bulbs like tubes?
    if so yeah ive got about 3 house lamps so i could get 3 of them at 100w each.

    In ref to usa guy - yep i think they are 10l pots (square 1)
    i thought maybe i could just do 1 transfer tomorrow when i buy the tomato grow bag for soil.

    should i then do 18/6, if so how long do i do in that stage?
    then what do i need to do after?

    *just looked at 'houseplant compost' at wilkinsonplus.(
    Wilko Ericaceous Compost 15ltr
    £1.49 9.9 p per Lit
    Reduced peat formula. The correct pH balance for lime hating plants. Ideal for azaleas; rhododendrons; heathers; camellias and other lime hating plants.

    Is this good stuff to use for growing, if not any ideas?
  16. Does the packaging mention what pH the soil is out of the bag? If not, get some test strips and find out what you're working with. if i recall correctly, lime hating plants like an acidic soil, so I would assume the soil you have leans toward that side of the scale. ideally you want to keep soil between 6.5 and 7 pH for this particular plant, fyi

    Do either 18/6 or 24/0, doesn't really matter which, what you need is a consistent lighting schedule. If you're not using HID lighting (or only using small lights, like a 150w) just go for 24/0, you won't save any appreciable amount of money cutting it off for 6 hours a day.
    24/0 also removes the possible complication of a burnt out light timer screwing up your cycle while you're away at work/school/whatever, for what it's worth

    If you plan on doing any form of low stress training, wait until the plant is stable (probably a couple weeks or more in your case) with a well-established root system before doing so. If you are topping/FIMing, I would start around the same time that you begin training. How long you want to veg the plant depends on a lot of factors, not the least of which being the space that you're working with. Keep in mind that plants will grow to at least 1.5-2x their size in veg during the first couple of weeks of flowering, so you need to plan ahead for that expansion.

    Sometime around the fourth week (possibly earlier, possibly later) the plant will start throwing pre-flowers, which are an indication to you whether you have a male or female on your hands. There are plenty of photos online of what male and female preflowers look like, your best bet is a google search. You won't be able to see preflowers with your naked eye, you'll want to pick up a cheap jeweler's loupe or just use a decent quality digital camera to take a high res photo that you can zoom in on with your computer.

    once you start flowering it's a whole new ball game...can't have light leaks, otherwise you'll end up with a hermied plant and seeded buds. can't have odor leaks or you'll end up in jail.

    etc. etc. etc.

    just do what you can to keep it healthy and we can cross that bridge when ya get to it

  17. #17 themasta09, Aug 3, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 3, 2009
    Cheers jd most helpful.
    First what is -low stress training?
    amd 'topping/FIMing'?

    Im not sure what ph the soil is, i think i will just go in and ask for a soil with the ph balance that you suggest.

    ATM the plant is in a spare bedroom, in middle of room with light above it and a window open (but flys are coming in so gnna have to change that somehow or get a net.

    Like i say its around 10 days old maybe more so when i get new soil and transfer it how much longer does it need before the next stage 12/12?

    P.s as for veg stage etc..basically as its my first i ideally want aq fast turnaround (but hopefully taking a cutting when the time comes, as second grow i will grow for max time)

    Thanks for your help, and wilko also do 'permalite' at a reasonable £1.49 so at least i will be able to help the plant that way.
  18. #18 jd4083, Aug 3, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 3, 2009
    Low stress training is a collection of techniques that center around the idea of tying down your plant to maximize light availability and use your space more efficiently. Depending on how big of a space you have, you may or may not need to use it. I've always topped (which is essentially removing a patch of new growth on the plant in such a way that as it heals it grows two shoots rather than one, which typically gives you a higher yield indoors) and recently started using the FIM technique (do a search on here or ICMag for that one, you'll want to look at the diagrams to fully understand what it is) which has been treating my girls very nicely so far.

    You need to isolate the plant in a smaller space as soon as you get your new lights...a closet is fine, and until it's time to flower there's no issue with leaving the door cracked a bit to help with circulation. Are you sure that you're adequately prepared for growing in the spot you're at? i.e. you have workable plans for an intake/exhaust/odor control setup and a final spot to flower the plant?

    If I were you I'd transplant and give it at least until you spot some preflowers to form a nice healthy root ball and work out any kinks (like the pH and any nutrient lockout that may or may not occur later on). Always better to wait for the plant to show sex before flowering if possible. And since your plant isn't doing all that well right this second, you need to give it the time to get healthy before worrying about least a week or two, probably more.

    I really need more info on your setup and expectations for yield to tell you what to do from there...

    and no problem, happy to help
  19. #19 themasta09, Aug 3, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 3, 2009
    Basically this is it-
    I bought that cutting of a mate, brought it homw, i then have that big massive 500w halgone on it 6pm - 2am, then 3 11w clf (standard household bulbs) 2am-11am.
    Than i put it on the window until 6pm. (not much sun atm where i am.

    It sit in the middle of a 10ft x 10ft bedroom about 1ft off the floor on a cardbord box, The small pot its in does has loads of roots (so defo getting the new soil tomoz)
    On a table about 2ft away from the plant i shine the 500w light over it.
    And at same height of plant about 1ft away i have a desktop 1ft fan Rotating fan)
    pointiing toward plant on slow speed.

    Its planted in a'tomato grow bag soil)

    I have a big warddrobe avialable, i got a good dark warm attic (only 1 neighbour)
    I have a avaerage size airing cupv=board with a hot water tank in.

    I cannot in anyway afford to buy any equipment thats why its a right 'botch job'
    As for yeild dont know, a couple of ounces? (again no real ideas) but for my first try just thought it be godd for doing a quick one, then maybe like i said starting another one?

    How much smell will there be?
    Thanks again jd

    THIS SCARES ME -Are you sure that you're adequately prepared for growing in the spot you're at? i.e. you have workable plans for an intake/exhaust/odor control setup and a final spot to flower the plant?
    HOW BAD?
  20. I do that for the most part at one of the indoor grow spots I have, here's a mother cab with a ShiskaberryxDutch Treat that spent her first 2 weeks outdoors, another week indoors/outdoors, and the rest of the time indoors...currently on day 58 from seed (day 2 of flower), this picture was taken at 30 I believe


    that one had nute lockout from bad soil which is why it looks a little funky...also the HPS light was on, and it was a camera phone, none of which helped the quality of the photo

    as for the smell - YES, it is going to stink up your house man. If you have one plant in a closet in a fairly large place you probably won't notice a smell unless you enter the room containing the closet...

    but if you rent, or if you have visitors at your home at ALL, you need to spend the $$ on a proper intake/exhaust setup along with a carbon scrubber - which can be made for a lot cheaper than it can be bought (again, do a search on ICMag or just google)

    I've seen plants that stink from inside a closed bathroom across a large house while in VEG, not even flowering yet :biglaugh: it's a crapshoot, and a pretty risky one if I recall UK drug laws correctly...please be safe :wave:

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