Help me

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by Kr0niKD0med, Aug 31, 2003.

  1. Someone who has expeirence wiht growing outside please tell me the steps to doin it because i have had lots of problems attempting it.
  2. Grow them just like tomatos. Water once every week or so and fert every other. And start at the begining of the season around april-july. Look at the grow FAQ and guides in the stick in basic grwoing before asking more questions.
  3. First of all I would not suggest growing on your own land, unless it is in a remote area where you can easily show that someone, anyone, could have come onto your property and violated your land by planting marijuana. When I say planting on your own land, I am on the thought of planting a huge crop. A few plants should be fine, but be careful, and it is at your own discretion (I still wouldn't recommend it). You may never get caught, but trust me when I say that neighbors get suspicious, hunters/recreational land users/hikers stumble onto remote land, and worst of all, cops. There is also the constant threat that someone may report seeing something specious from an airplane, helicopter, hang glider, etc.

    Choosing the best strain is probably more important then the ultimate location. You can take the worst genetics and place it in ideal conditions and get a good outcome, but if you place the ideal or perfect genetics into its ideal conditions, you will get amazing and flabbergasting results. On the other hand, great genetics still do very well in less than ideal conditions. Most importantly is sun exposure. The more direct sunlight (preferably on a southern facing slope) the better. I find north facing slopes are a good choice as well if need be. Try to avoid heavy traffic areas, popular hiking trails, and recreational roads where it is common to have lots of people picking berries, mushrooms, etc. Finding a location near a water source is not always ideal either, for water naturally attracts man and beast. What I would suggest is a secure location where your plants won't get confiscated by the cops or stolen by rippers/hunters/hikers. Once you are as certain as possible that you have chosen a secure location, see that the area is fertile (lots of green vegetation). Dark/black topsoil with lots of bugs/worms within the first few inches of soil is an indication of a healthy location (valley bottoms tend to be ideal locations because the rich soil is washed away and eroded to the bottom of the valley, however sometimes it is challenging to find good sun exposure at the bottom of a valley). Having a water source near by is great, and it usually means the tap roots of the plant will penetrate deep enough though the last 1/2 or 1/3 of the season and will not require much, if any, supplemental watering (not including fertilizing/feedings of the plant). At all costs, avoid making paths to where you have your plant(s). What seems invisible on the ground may be very apparent from the air. Prepare and enrich the soil the previous fall before planting for best results

    A lot of the times I turn the existing soil without adding much to it, and have an excellent crop. I am fortunate because I live in a great area, which is in a valley where it is naturally fertile. What I do at a location which requires enrichment is unfold and place a 6' x 6' foot tarp (or 8' x 8' foot, whatever I have handy) on the ground. I then start to dig a 2' x 2' foot hole, placing all the material I remove onto the tarp. I keep digging down until I reach the clay layer. I will remove the clay layer into a 5 gallon bucket, or something similar, and remove it into a secluded location near by. I will try to find a natural depression and fill the hole, covering it with leaves, twigs, etc to conceal it (you might have to repeat this several times, depending on how much clay needs to be removed). I usually dig the hole to a depth of about 2.5 - 3' feet, and little if any material needs to be removed from the hole once I have removed the clay. Once completed, I loosen and break up the earth in the hole below the clay layer I just removed, and get it to a nice loose consistency so the roots can penetrate this layer. I will then focus my attention back to my tarp and use my shovel to break up any large chunks of earth. I try to mix the soil layers on the tarp together. I then return about one third of the earth from the tarp back into the hole. Then on my tarp I will mix in some enrichment and soil conditioners (depending on how fertile the original soil is, and what I feel the soil needs). Some of the things that I add to the soil are:

    - perlite and vermiculite (or sometimes I will use Sunshine Mix #4 instead of those two items if I feel the original dirt it is lacking in rich topsoil)
    - dolomite or hydrated lime
    - green sand
    - wood ash
    - glacier dust
    - worm castings
    - compost
    - pre-composted manure (chicken, rabbit, cow, bat guano, seabird, etc)

    am also a fisherman, so I will pack in a large river caught fish and cut it into a few pieces and add it onto the pile on the tarp. If I am making preparations in the spring, I will dice the fish into 2” cubes (head, tail, guts, and all) and add it in this fashion so it will decompose at a quicker rate. I feel lime and compost are important ingredients because they react together rapidly breaking down the nutrients to an available form to the roots, plus this process creates heat while decomposing. I've heard that blood meal and bone meal are good too, however I've never used them. Another thing to mention is perlite and vermiculite stand out like a sore thumb in the wilderness (especially if you've prepared your spot(s) the previous fall) if used make sure you have dirt 3+” inches covering these little white pebbles. Watering tends to make these little white buggers float and settle to the top, so make sure they are buried good. Once I have added all the ingredients I feel the particular area requires, I then blend this material on the tarp and replace it into the hole. I find that when I have completed filling and loosely compacting the hole (patting it down with a shovel, stepping on it, etc every 6-8” inches or so) I am left with a slight depression. The idea is you want to have a slight depression where your hole is (about 2") from the surrounding earth. This way when it rains, or during watering/feeding, it is in a depression and creates a natural water trap. Now you've got your hole(s) prepared you can pack up your shovel and tarp, then head off without leaving much of a trace. Remember all the above is all related to how remote your area is, which items you are going to need to add to condition and enrich your soil. This is also dependant on whether or not you are willing to pack all these ingredients to the area(s).

    Ok so now you've got the location prepared, a winter or a few months have gone by, and the conditions are right to plant some marijuana and let them grow. But what strain are you going to plant? While choosing a strain(s) is very important, you must consider all the factors. Some of the thing you need to consider about choosing a strain(s) is when it will complete its cycle, its smell, potency, height, yield, and how hardy the plant is to the environment.

    I'll give a brief rundown of some popular strains that I have some experience with:

    1. Hash Plant, Afghani, Hindu Kush, etc - These are excellent plants that finish mid to late August with a very good yield, high potency, and usually an extreme smell. These are also strains for an experienced grower. They require intense sunlight and lots of it, with plenty of ground water (not rain!!) These plants start to bud first, while the sunlight is still long and very intense. These plants pack on bud weight very quickly and get very think, they grow like dense little bushes. A badly timed rainfall followed by intense sunlight will cause mold and fungus growth, and can ruin an entire crop in a short time. I have seen dried and cured buds the size of footballs that were thrown away because they were full of mold when cut in half. I would harvest these plants when the hairs are about 10% dead, unless you want to chance spoiling by mold. Even heavy dew can cause disaster. Hash Plant is one of my favorite strains.

    2. Early * (Pearl, Queen, Riser, etc) Manitoba Poison, and similar - These plants finish late August to early September with a moderate to better yield and moderate to very good potency. These plants grow approximately 6 - 9' feet tall, with a bush like appearance. They are fairly easy to grow and are very popular with many people. These are an excellent choice for a first timer, novice, or someone that can not devote a lot of time to tending a garden. Most of these strains are good at being mold resistant.

    3. Mighty Mite, Durban Poison, Jack Herer, etc - These plants finish mid to late September with a very good yield and very good potency, and usually with a potent but fairly contained area in regards to smell. These plants tend to grow with a dominant main cola (re: huge) with several large side branches, and they can be very top heavy at times. These plants react well to being topped, which increases yield. These plants are fairly low maintenance, the more love you give them, the more they will return to you. But if need be, these plants can be planted and left till mid September, and as long as they didn't dry out or fall over, I can almost guarantee some nice buds. Mighty Mite is another one of my favorites.
    4. Blueberry, White Widow, White Rhino, Super Silver Haze, Pure Power Plant, etc - These stains tend to finish mid to end of October with very good yields and great potency. These do not smell a whole lot while in the ground, until you cut them down. These plants grow 7 - 10 feet tall and can have a nice heavy yield. These require some modest attention to get a good quality crop, while the SSH and PPP can be a bitch to grow. They can develop mold/fungus near the end of development if the weather becomes damp or wet. Some mild to moderate frost is not a problem, and tends to bring out some nice color. These plants do well outdoor, but are wicked when grown indoor.

    5. Skunk #1, Northern Lights #5, Big Bud, pure or nearly pure sativa's - These plants finish end of October to early November (and sometimes the sativa's never finish at all due to weather/snow. This last year I was fortunate and took my sativa's out of the ground November 15th after shaking off the first snow fall..., the hairs on these plants were approximately 50% dead) The Skunk #1 is extremely smelly, with a nice wind this potent plant can be smelt for a mile (seriously). Every one of these plants has a large to huge yield, and enormous in the case of the Big Bud strain. You must tie the bottom branches of the Big Bud plants, or the bottom branches will break off due to bud weight. All the strains in this final category have a great, supreme potency (the Big Bud strain is considered very good at best). These plants tend to get tall. Skunk #1, Big Bud plants get 10 - 14 feet tall, the Northern Lights are sometimes taller yet, while some sativa's can stretch 20+ feet tall. Any of these plants are capable of yielding multiple pounds, each plant. Mold/fungus are a worry with these plants since they don't start flowering till late in the season, (some of the earlier strains are already out of the ground!!) and you have to consider that late in the season there is lots of rain, lots of frost, and occasionally snow. These do handle rain and frost well, and can even take the first few light snow falls without much of a worry. They truly do grow like weeds, and in some cases they can be left on their own till they are ripe.

    So now you've chosen a strain(s) that will work for your area. I like to start off with seed, the plants just seems to be more hardy and do a little better at the end of the season. Seed plants are grown 10-14” inches tall and then planted outdoor where they can handle early season conditions. I do, however, also use clones. Clones are great if you have a mother plant and no seeds of the strain. Also, once clones have rooted and started to show new growth, they can be put outside at 4-6" inches tall without showing too many signs of shock, and still be strong enough to handle the environment. These "small" clones are also great for taking out in a backpack past heavy traffic areas. It's much easier to take a half dozen 5" inch plants then it is to take two 14" inch plants. But when do you plant them outdoors? Early frost can be devastating. Do not put your plants out until the threat of heavy frost is gone. Young plants with some natural cover and a good root system can handle moderate frost with a good survival rate. The earlier you put them out, the larger number of plants you have to consider for loss due to their environment. However, if you put them out too late, you will get smaller plants with smaller yields. Only experience can tell you the correct time.

    Once I am ready to plant in these areas (once again it is best to do all the above soil preparation/enrichment the previous fall or early spring) I bring in my plants, whether started from seed or clones, and place them into my prepared areas. I water them with a mixture of water and one half strength No Damp. I will return within a week or 10 days to make sure they are not being eaten, blown over, etc. If they seem to have taken well and I figure they have rooted into their new home, I will give them a feeding of one half strength 20-20-20 fertilizer, along with Vita-Max. Once they are well into vegetative state, I'll return several times and fertilize them with 20-20-20 to give them a boost during their high rate of growth. How dry the area is, and if they are exposed to wind which may blow them over, how fertile the area is, etc. determines how often I will return to the site. Once the season has turned and they are into their first week of flowering, I will return and boost them with Vita-Max and a flowering fertilizer. During flowering, I return to check them more frequently for watering and feedings, waiting for them to finish their cycle and awaiting harvest. Also try to water/feed in the early morning or after sunset, for it is best not to water during the heat of the day.

    Keeping wildlife from eating your crop is always a challenge, (depends on where you plant I suppose). I refuse to build perimeters or fences (they stick out like a sore thumb). I will not use chemical poison or anything harmful, I think doing this is wrong because you ruin the land for years to come (especially if you find that "sweet spot" and you want to continue to plant there for a few years). I have been lucky and have not had too much trouble with wildlife after the plants were 3-4 + feet tall. When first transplanting outside with small/short plants, they are the only green vegetation in the area. Lush new green plants are like a magnet to rabbits, gophers, deer, bears, etc. I have found that peeing around the planted area (say a 20' foot circle) does help, especially with the larger animals (deer, coyotes, bear, etc). When using pee as a natural barrier, make sure to make a complete circle. What I do is pee into a 2 liter pop bottle, at home or whatever, then I take it to the site when the bottle is full, and make the circle. Other things I have found helpful are placing/hanging/dropping human hair around the area. I'm paranoid so I don't use my own hair, but I get hair from a hair styling friend. I also use my wife's old nylons to make "hair bags" which I hang off trees/bushes/ferns and even place them in strategic areas around the perimeter. This "hair" seems to work for all types of animals and critters. For the smallest of the foes (rabbits, rats, gophers, etc), I like to take a sharp knife and a '3-pak' of Irish Springs soap from Wal-mart, and shave off soap and spread it around the area. Depending on how fine you shave the soap and the weather, you may have to repeat this process several times throughout the season. Apparently the soap also repels deer. I've used old house wiring and stripped out the copper within, and used it to wrap around the base of the plant to prevent slugs, however I've only done this after I discovered slugs in one area that I planted. After picking off the slugs and wrapping the copper wire around the base of the plant, the slugs did not return. I have a bad habit of not doing anything, as far as prevention, until something happens... perhaps I am just lazy?

    Are there other issues that you should be concerned about? Absolutely, and many of them ranging from bugs and animals from all sizes, to humans, poor growing environments, and dry spells. The best piece of advice I can give you is to keep a clear water source in mind. Sometimes we experience dry spells that last for a couple of weeks, and some of your plants will require water. A lot of water. It is not very pleasant having to carry a dozen milk jugs of water, a couple of miles every two days, just to water five plants for a couple of weeks.

    - was in my grow library..think I got it from overgrow..due credit where its deserved

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