I have two QB120 that i plan on driving with a HLG-120H-48B mean well (in series). Now i want to add a QB288 v2 and would like it to be the same brightness as the 120's so i can mount them all on the same plate. I am assuming i would need a 60W driver like the HLG-60-48B but im not sure if i need the same V out (48) or not. if not what would you recommend for this purpose? Thanks!
Just match to voltage to the one board; that's what you want to do. If its 48 volts, use a 48 volt driver.
Those boards work with up to 54 volts. The qb288 I mean. 4 of them in series requires over 210 volts DC. That's why the qb288 is used on all of their 4 board fixtures. The qb304 is double the voltage requirement so you can't run 4 boards in series. There's not a driver that puts out enough voltage. That's why even though the qb304 was their best board in efficiency and overall output for a while it wasn't used on their best fixtures because they wanted to be able to use one driver for 4 boards. That's why HLG uses the HLG-120H-54a and the HLG-150H-54a is because the qb288 can handle a little over 54 volts. I'll tell you another secret. HLG blocks out the driver model number on the website so you can't just follow the parts list. They didn't used to. That started about last fall. They can't block the model numbers out of the youtube build and review videos though. You can see what drivers they use on them.
lots of different drivers to use depending on how many boards you want in series. For 4 qb120's in series IMO the best driver is the HLG-240h-c2100a. It's wet location/outdoor approved so super heavy duty and it has a built in dimmer. The cheaper options don't have that but there is cheaper ways to go.
Here's HLG 120 guide page, it lists a bunch of compatible drivers towards the bottom: QB120 Board Guide
Personally i go for the hlg150 or elg150 range for 2 x 120s. It gives the driver a bit more headroom which will stop it running at full pelt. This will prolong the life of the driver.
I do this myself. I bought LRS-75-24's for my spare two qb120's so the driver isn't running at max output. Those HLG 240h's are pretty darn bulletproof though. I haven't heard of one burning out. If you go to arrow or meanwell and check out the specs on the temp operating range it's pretty crazy. Those drivers can run from -40 to 158 degrees. When people want to save money you can wire in parallel and use the LRS-350-24. It's over 100 watts higher capacity then max power on the boards. They'll just draw what they need similar to a computer power supply. I never liked the way that almost all LED light builders match the max capacity of the driver to the leds. It's partially because previous generations of leds were delicate and easy to burn up. You didn't want the driver to have the capacity to put out too much power for it even for a split second. That's why they're wired in series. In parallel you have more of a danger of getting a split second spike in current when one light burns out to the other remaining ones. The HLG diodes are so bulletproof though there's little danger of that ever happening. There's a qb288 on youtube taking over 600 watts without burning up. In fact I've never seen one burn up.
It depends on the driver model how hot it's going to run. I have some MDR-60-24's that run super cool even though they're matched to max power on the boards. I have some other 60-24's that run pretty hot. Those first ones I got in my qb120 thread. They still work though.
I actually think that the light fixture would be slightly brighter with the LRS-350-24. It's just a less efficient driver that you can't get wet. It has a higher current output though then the HLG-240h-c2100a. The max rated current on the qb120's is 2500mA but they will run slightly higher then that, close to 2800mA. When you wire them to a 350 they draw max. There's no built in dimmer on it though so it can run a bit warmer then the HLG. I have helped build probably 50 or more 4 board fixtures with the HLG 240h. I've had several people test the draw at the wall afterwards. They run about 255 watts at the wall. If you do the math they're running the boards pretty close to max output. At least over 60 watts each even thought the driver is only rated at 2100mA