help i think my plant is dying purple leaves

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by livinhxc, May 26, 2010.

  1. they start getting purple at the tips and eventually go brown then dark brownish yellowish throughout the whole leafs, the stems are also red
    it all started at the bottom of the plant and is working its way up my plants about 15 inches tall and its tooken totaly over of 2/3 leaves so far and getting worse its in ffof soil mixed with blood and bone meal i havn't fertalized it in a couple of weeks should i just flush it with reverse osmosis water ? any help would be apreciated
  2. Phosphorous deficiency, I think. But it could be systemic of a PH imbalance. Might give them some of that bone meal.
  3. ok you think so ? is it a bad thing to use botanicare pureblend pro grow nutes along with the bone meal and blood meal and bat shit ? if i do use just the organics than how should i use them i have the three mentioned should i make into a tea and if so how do i go about doing that or just top dress and if so with how much or do i just mix with the water ?
  4. #4 Antigen, May 26, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: May 26, 2010
    Make sure you check your pH levels too, if your water or soil is not in the correct range, your plant won't absorb the nutes you give it. You want a pH of 6.5 - 6.8, for both your soil and water. Make sure you're measuring the pH of your water after you add in nutes as well, since nutes will lower the pH.

    Also I don't think there would be any problem using the different ferts together, just make sure you don't overfertilize. It's easy to do if your pH is off and you try to give more and more nutes to fix the problem but it only makes it worse. I wouldn't give any more ferts until you make sure your pH is OK.

    You should remove your duplicate post of this question too. :p
  5. so its between 6.5 and 6.8 in soil ?
    not 5.5 and 6.5, 6.0 being ideal? im so confused i've read so many different things can anyone clarify this for me please and let me know if it makes a difference if your watering with water or a nutrient solution.
    im using botanicare bure blend pro nutrients if it makes a difference
    thanks ahead of time for the help .... by the way i my ph is all good now how long should i be able to tell if that was the problem or if it is a deficiency?
  6. [​IMG]


    These might help clarify. The last one's my favorite.
  7. #7 GrapeStreet, May 30, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: May 30, 2010
    As the charts show, if the PH is out of range, "lockout" can occur. Also, risk of toxicity rises for other nutrients.

    I'm in the same boat man, riding a severe ph swing. watchin my ladies stress. It's sad.

    Go very light on the nutes, if any, until you balance the PH and know it is stable.

    Most nutrients will make the PH of your feed water drop. So you must measure the PH after the feed water (with nutes, sugars, etc.) is mixed. If you're using empty water, you should test near 7.0 and should be good to water. You can add a small bit of PH down if your water is alkaline(>7).

    I've been told, and am trying, Hygrozyme, an enzyme extracted (i believe) from barley. As far as I've read, it increases the breakdown and availability of nutrients in the soil, allowing you to fertilize less, and the plants to get what they need from what's already there. I've not found a lot of research on it yet, but lots of positive testimonials.
  8. thanks so for my outdoor soil i will water with 6.5 weather it is plain water or the nutrient solution i should get everything around 6.5 thank s i think thats the prblem i thought 6.0 was perfect
  9. #10 livinhxc, Jun 1, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2010
    yeah inkman i have checked over that a couple times already and i can't seem to find the defficiency to the pictures the only one that looks like it is a Molybdenum def. you think this is it?

  10. As you can see on the charts Molybdenum gets locked out at pH 6.4 and lower, so yes I think it definitely could be showing signs of Mo def., most likely along with Calcium & Magnesium since they lock out at the same pH levels.

    Since you were using that low pH water for a while, you will need to flush the acid salts out of your soil. They are mostly up near the top so you need to add enough water to push them all the way down and out the drainholes. Usually 3X pot size worth of water is enough. So if you have 3 gallon pots, you need to run 9 gallons of water through each of them to flush them out.

    While you are flushing, periodically test the pH of the runoff water that is coming out of the drainholes. This will give you a rough idea of what the pH of your soil is. Hopefully as you flush this will rise up toward 6.5. If the problem is really bad you might need more than 3X worth of water to get all the acid salts flushed out.

    Once you flush make sure to use correctly pHd water and don't expect the damaged leaves to recover. That damage has been done and most likely damaged leaves will get a little worse even though you have corrected the problem. As long as your new growth is not affected and it doesn't get a LOT worse, then you should be OK.
  11. thank you i am pretty sure that that was the problem a major Molybdenum def. the purple leaves have made their way to about 3 leaves away from the top. i flushed a couple days ago.

    is flushing with my plain tap a good idea the ppm is about 45 and the ph is 7.3ish...
    or should i put it in a huge resevoir for a couple days so the chlorine gets out and adjust ph?
    by thank you for helping out everyone its all the little things that i guess i still need to learn
  12. You should leave out any tap water that you're going to use for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Since it is a flush to raise the pH, it would be OK to use 7.3ish water for the flush only but it should be de-chlorinated first.

    Also you should measure your runoff pH first just to be certain that the soil's pH really is too low before you go through all the trouble of flushing again.

    If your first flush was enough, you may not need to do it again. The damage is done and might even continue for a little bit after the problem has been corrected. As long as your new growth is not affected and it doesn't get a LOT worse then you should be OK.

    You might want to give 1/2 str nutes on the last gallon of your flush too since that much flushing will wash out nutrients as well.
  13. thanks should i leave my nutrients solution out for a couple of days also or is it ok to mix imediatly before watering?
  14. It's OK to mix your nutes into the final gallon right before you're going to use it. That way the chlorine will already be out of the water.

    Make sure you pH that last gallon with the nutes in it before you use it though since the nutes will make the pH of that gallon lower. You might need to add some pH UP to get it to 6.5.
  15. do you know your ph
  16. i think you can use baking soda mixed with water to bring the ph up
    not sure how much to mix
  17. You should not use baking soda to raise your pH. Baking soda is Sodium Bicarbonate, and you don't want to put too much sodium in your soil. Use real pH UP from a garden center or grow/hydro store. It is OK to use baking soda in an emergency if you can't get any pH UP, but you don't want to use it for any prolonged period of time.

  18. why not Hydrated Lime? that is what it is for, yes ?
  19. if you think thats the problem you should raise the ph
    fix ph before fixing anything else i think baking soda will raise ph
    but not shore the mix google how to raise ph in soil
    good luck

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