These are three bagseeds from the same bag. Plants are in coco perlite. Similar to hempy. Feeding cns-17 grow at 10ml/gal and calimagic at 2-3ml/gal. Hydroguard 2ml/gal. Using tap water in SF. Comes out at 8.4 ph 65-85 ppm. I readjust to 5.5-5.9 ph. The mix usually comes to about 850 ppm. Temps outdoors have been lowest 51 around 5 in the morning and highest temps of 85 this past week. I used azamax as a systemic last week Monday and was planning on reapplying tommorow but I'm not sure if I should considering the plants condition. Since this is my first grow I didn't realize how droopy my leaves were this whole grow until I went to my friends house and saw how his leaves look. I'm pretty sure they have experienced wind burn and I have since put up a bamboo screen. Beyond that new growth at the top is purplish and taco like on 2 plants and a spider made his nest in the top of one of them. First 6 pictures are plant one then next 4 are plant 2 then last 5 are plant 3. Suggestions please. I hope I have provided enough information and pictures. If any more are needed please ask. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
I went up there to top em to control upward growth since they are peaking above the bamboo screen but decided to ask you guys opinion first Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
I'm still in veg. Locals growers have said flowering doesn't start until late August or early September. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
flowering should start right around august 1st in San Fran. Wont see small buds till the second or third week of August.
I thought I was over watering but read that coco should be watered every day. I still gave it a shot. I've only watered twice in the past week and can feel how light the pots are when I water them. No change however. And the res in the hempy would be dry in a day if i didnt put water in there between watering the coco. My other 2 plants are doing fine being watered every day and they're smaller. However idk if leaves bounce back frombover watering and wil perk upup like this baby. And thanks for letting me know that date. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Yup sure is a spider he made that nest pretty damn quickly because I checked em this morning and was gone for 4 hours. When I got back boom he already had a home made. Since the photo I have neatly gently removed the webs and relocated the spider to a more acceptable home. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
When my plants get major rootbound the bottom leaves slowly turn yellow then easily fall off and this continues and works it's way up the plant. I think your plants are rootbound.
from the first post. Had spider mites in may Had thrips about a week ago. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Can you get some help and transplant your plant in a 5 or 10 gallon smart pot? That's what I would focus on if you sprayed Azamax a week ago.
I agree with mbenatar. Get some new soil and transplant. That will help going into flower here. That will take care of the root bound problem which is causing you to water too often. Good luck.
Plants are root-bound. The pots are WAY TO SMALL. I would purchase much larger pots. I recommend fabric pots are they prevent plants from becoming root bound and are impossible to overwater. When growing any plant you always should use the largest pot possible. Larger pots prevent the plant from drying out, allows for a larger roots ball which results in a larger plant, hold more nutrients. With the size of the plants I would use at least a 10-15 gallon pot. Personally I think 20 gallons is the smallest I would use normally. Within a day of transplanting the plants will recover and will have a growth spur. I also would top each plant to allow more branching and allow the lower. Ranches to catch up to the top of the plant. This will also increase yields and create a bushier plant. I live in the Sacramento, San Francisco area and flowering starts at the last week of July to start of August. Once flowering begins you won't want to transplant due to it shocking the plants. Transplanting now will be beneficial and help come flowering. Come August it will form flowers along with being super hot outdoors. With the current pots you will need to water multiple times a day. With a lager pot you should be able to skip a day or two between watering which is better for the plants. Allow the medium to slightly dry allow oxygen to the roots which prevent root rot and keeps the roots healthy. When you sprayed for pest what time of day did you do it. All sprays should be done at sunrise or at sunset. Spraying during daylight causes the plants to get burned. I spray just at sunset so it drys, I can still see what I am doing and my plants don't get burned from the solution magnifying the suns rays. Good luck with the plants. Feel free to ask me any questions and I included a link to my outdoor grow so you can get so idea of my techniques. Kronicly Insane's 2017 Outdoor gardens. Kronicly Insane's 2017 Outdoor gardens. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
You should leave predatory insects like spiders on the plant. They eat the bad bugs like aphids and caterpillars so they are beneficial.
They are beneficial unless their webs twist newer leaves to a point where the leaves can't properly or fully photosynthesize. I didn't kill him I put him on a tomato plant that I don't feed azamax to. I also have been saving the lady bugs. But other than that I am not sure which other insects are predatory. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
I would transplant too. Wouldn't doubt that it's rootbound by now. Some of the lower leaves do look kinda shiny tho and the growth up top is crinkling. Thats typical of plants with broad/russet mites. It could be the early onset of them. Inspect leaves with 60x scope. That's the last thing u want to get out of hand.
You might be correct with it having russet mites. The only other cause off the top of my head would be he sprayed the plants during the day when the light was too strong or with too strong of a solution. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum