First grow and it's some bag weed I had. Have them under two cfl 5000k bulbs and reflectors. The soil is miracle grow seed starting potting mix. I just watered in these pics. I just water tap water That i let air out for 24 hours and don't measure ph or anything. And I haven't given the plants any fertilizer. What can be wrong here? I thought yellow tips means nutrient burn? But then this one is doing really well and growing like crazy.
I think I might have gone too long in between watering because the one in the plastic container is doing great. The clay absorbs water for sure. Plus the dirt got dry and pulled away from the edge of the pot on the ones that look bad. I have been scared to over water and I think I may have underwatered due to this
MG kills cannabis...flush the shit out of em and pray(time released nutes are a bitch... or transplant and rinse as much of that shit off as possible. Not sure why the one looks really good still. is it in diff soil?? if not prob strong pheno...or that cup might drain really well and you flushed some of the nutes out??? Not really sure just theorizing.
I havent given any nutes at all. Nothing but water. The plastic cup seems to be doing better than the clay pots. I think the clay pots dry out much faster and maybe it was lack of water.
Definitely the soil, repot in something a little less "hot". Even the seed starter soil is pumped up with N additives which are probably causing the burning your seeing on the leaftips. As joeblow said different phenotypes are more resistant which would explain why some are showing signs of stress and some aren't.
Ill try that. I have another bag of regular potting soil. I just figured the seed starting stuff would be great for them.
No sir...good for most fruits and vegetables....not cannabis. amend your potting soil with perlite, dolomite lime and a bit of coco if you can.
you should be able to find the perlite and the dolomite lime. forget the coco if you dont have a hydro store. you can do without it. what nutrients are you planning on using? do you have a ph meter? or even ph drops?
To tell you the truth I havent planned much. I figured some water and some dirt should be enough to grow some weeds...lol. And since Im new to this I am still in the researching stage as far as nutrients. I have learned a lot on here and plan on reading up on the subject of nutrients. I am familiar with PH testing and understanding PH levels because I am into salt water reef/fish tanks. It also helps with understanding lighting.
I would imagine he doesn't have a PH tester or much else as he's using clear cups for pots. Legitimus don't worry about mixing your own soil yet, people don't do that until they've gained a lot of knowledge on what your plants need to survive and it would be hard for someone new to growing to portion the ingredients correctly. Try the other soil you have as long as it's not miracle grow and doesn't have a time released fertilizer you should be fine.
i got tanks too. maxicrop is easy to find and decent for cannabis. just make sure you start with 1/4 strength and work up. ph of feed nutes should be at 6.6 and u can use your dechlor to get chlorine out of water. cannabis doesnt like chlorine...
that is why we are here. so fellow growers dont have to do so much trial and error. adding some perlite and tablespoon of lime is simple cheap and will help aeration in soil and lime will help maintain optimal ph range. easy stuff...
I have a RODI system for my reef tank. Would that water be better to use than tap water? Is distilled water good to use? And I dont have a ph tester. I just test my alkalinity and calcium on my reef tank not the PH because if the alk and cal are correct the PH is fine. I guess I can go get some PH tester strips. Im using mostly clay pots but I ran out of them and had to put a couple of the plants into plastic bottles. Its ghetto but it works for now. The plants are small so all 8 of them are in a small area with just two lights on them. I plan on building a box and adding a few more CFL's soon.
RO would be great. general hydroponics make a liquid test kit and for your needs right now it would be perfect. I used them for years, but would recomend this one if you want a good meter thats not gonna break the bank...Hanna Instruments Hi 98103 Checker PH Tester with Replaceable Electrod
clear cups not a big deal at all when they are tiny. you are gonna transplant soon after roots hit sides anyways. as long as u know they are taboo for sure and will kill roots by exposing them to light.
No. But it is better. You can exact the solution to the .05. so you can make your solution exactly 6.55 if you want it exactly that. you can just catch some runoff from your pots when you water and test that with it. the soil will maintain itself, especially with the lime in it as long as you add the correct ph nutes...if any deficiencies or problems you will diagnose them accordingly, but it will be due to your plant needing something. When ph is off, disorders manifest themselves in very strange ways and people usually treat for the wrong problem and end up making it worse...LOL i just harvestd a few days ago im rambling.... ex. cal/mag in early flowering/rootbound=slow growth, yellowing veins...etc. also for further discussion the ppm meter by hanna is the cheapest and it has worked perfectly for me for 6 months now... $16.99 - HANNA Primo TDS Tester, Free S/H!
My RODI system has a inline TDS tester and the water is always at 0 out of it. I didnt know low TDS mattered with watering plants.
tds,ppm=EC. EC is a measurement of Electric conductivity of a solution. Basically the same as tds and ppm, just a universal measurement. see, different brands of ppm meters use different conversion ratios to figure ppm. this is a measurement of the solution AFTER you have mixed up your nutes...it will help you to give them the right amount of nutes promoting optimal growth, but not burning them. This is why people like RO it allows you to add an extra 200 ppm of nutes b/c the 200 ppm is not present in the source h20...following me...