Growing Vertical with Gavita

Discussion in 'Indoor Grow Journals' started by Radicali, Dec 12, 2016.

  1. #1 Radicali, Dec 12, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2016
    12-11-16

    I have thought for many years that I would like to build a vertical house for a 1000W light. I also thought that a Gavita experiment would make things more interesting. That is to say, I have no idea what this effort will turn out in results. I love unknown territory.

    My electrician ran the proper power to turn on this "idea" and I took clones a few days ago. Maybe I have another week and a half to two weeks finish the build and turn it on.

    This is a link the 600W houses that I will be scaling up and basing the new build off of.
    Personal Solo Cup Challenge

    The gavita required some "vertical optimazation" so I took off the hood and hood latch, then got the hack saw out to complete the mission. Here is my new Gavita.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    Here is a quick look at the base layout. The house is 48" in diameter and the top and bottom will be separated by 40" legs. There will also be an air exchange box on top adding another foot or two of height.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    I will update this as building continues.
     
  2. #2 Radicali, Dec 26, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2016
    Had a chance to do more building.
    Here is the bottom of the chamber with the inner and outer octagons which form the reservoir laid out and pre drilled. The top and bottom donuts are 48" in diameter and come from a single sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood. The top will be separated vertically by 40".
    image.jpeg

    This begins the process of creating an inset drain. The square next to the edge is the position for one of the four legs to separate the top and bottom of the chamber. The larger diamond is the position for the chamber leg mounted under the bottom. The four legs under the spinner are cut different lengths to drain the water one direction. Drain side leg is 8", far side leg is 8&1/4", and the two opposite legs are 8&1/8".
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    The pieces of wood which will form and attach the actual drain.
    image.jpeg

    The drain is drilled and clamped into place. The two blocks of wood go under the drain and give the screws something solid to grab.
    image.jpeg

    The finished drain from underneath.
    image.jpeg
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. #3 Radicali, Dec 27, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2016
    image.jpeg

    Building the rezervoir.

    The inner and outer octagon are just standard 2X6. The angle of every cut is 22.5 degrees. Long edge on the outer octagon is 18&1/4 inches, and the long edge of the inner octagon is 10&1/8 inches. All pieces were palm-sanded on every face and the most clean edge was selected to be the joining edge against the table.
    Each octagon was assembled loose, adjusted properly, and then traced. Then each individual piece was clamped on both ends and screwed in from underneath with 3" screws. After all pieces were screwed to the bottom, I went around the circle again clamping and joining the tops of the joints with one screw.
    Here is a shot of the last screw being sunk.
    image.jpeg
    Tight joints that won't change over time are mandatory for a long lasting Rez.

    Table legs were screwed in and the bottom was placed where it will reside permanently.

    image.jpeg

    ARDEX 8+9: This might be a game changer for do-it-yourself Rez building. About $70 for what is in the pic.

    I played the mental chess game for many hours (years when it really comes down to it since I have been thinking of how to do this for years) and eventually talked to a friend for some advise. He does very high end tile jobs and shower building is part of the deal. He said ARDEX 8+9 is fairly new to the market and would probably be a perfect match for my application. I scrapped All my ideas and now we have a real world test coming right up.

    ADREX 8+9 seems like a paintable rubber. When I was mixing it for the for the first time, I got several splotches on my hands and didn't try to remove it until I was ready to paint the Rez up. That stuff turned out to be impressively difficult to get off later (like 24 hours later) and I have used latex gloves since. Yet, when I wash the paint brush with water for clean up, it cleans very fast; like in 1 minute. I have used the same paint brush for all 3 coats and it's still in very good condition. Almost impressively so considering how bad ass ARDEX is dry. Instructions say you can flood test in 4 hours and working time seems like 30-45 minutes. Ok, so I'm impressed with it right now. Time will tell from here.

    Here is the Rez after the first coat.
    image.jpeg

    I gave a second coat after 1 hour of dry time. Here is the color difference between fresh and dry.
    image.jpeg

    I waited 36 hours from the second coat and gave it a third and final coat. 2 coats was the recommended dose from my friend and the instructions and it did look well done after the second coat dried. I still have enough ARDEX left over for another 10-15 coats at least. Tomorrow I will flood test it at max capacity for at least 12 hours.

    This is exciting for me. 4-5 years of thinking about building something like this and it's just a few days away from turning on.
    GO ARDEX. YOU SAVED ME HOURS
     
  4. Air Intake.

    Before I moved the bottom into place, I traced the inner octagon onto the back of 1/4" white board and cut the piece out. Also found the center of the white board, traced the inside diameter of my 8" attachment flange and cut that circle out. Here is the whiteboard sitting in place before the bottom was moved.
    image.jpeg

    Standard 8" flange with a sticky top. "Stuck" into place and the four screw holes are drilled through the whiteboard.
    image.jpeg

    I took one of the donut 3/4" center cutouts and cut an 8" hole out of the center to form a collar for screws to grab.
    image.jpeg

    Top view with 8" flange attached and perimeter holes drilled to attach it to the inner octagon.
    image.jpeg

    I also wanted to disperse some air at the plants and used a 7"-6" reducer. 3 holes were drilled into the reducer at desired level and corresponding holes were drilled just inside the 8" flange so the screws would enter the 3/4" collar and grab. It's held (suspended) perfectly to send a little air at the plants and a lot of air strait across the Gavita Lamp.
    image.jpeg

    From the bottom.
    image.jpeg

    Permanently installed.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    Installed from below.
    image.jpeg
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Chamber top and air exchange box for the exhaust.
    image.jpeg

    I cut a piece of Panda plastic into 2, 5'X5' pieces. The first was used to cover the inside of the top. 4 total staples were put in to hold it in place. Staples were put directly in front of where each leg attaches. The edge was trimmed back about 3/4"-1" from the edge.
    image.jpeg

    The edge was taped down all the way around while leaving the leg locations open for easy orientation. Staples were then added all the way around through the tape and plastic. The center was cut out so the loose ends could be wrapped through and attached on top.
    image.jpeg

    The top with loose ends staples close to the edge.
    image.jpeg

    Trimmed.
    image.jpeg

    Legs added. Washers keep the 3" deck screws from punching through the inside of my Rez and 3 total screws in the bottom of each leg lock everything in place.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    The top is put into place. There are two screws passing through the top donut into each leg and so both holes were pilot holed to keep the end from splitting.
    image.jpeg

    Exhaust air exchange box. 18" square and 17" tall.
    image.jpeg

    The second 5'X5' piece of plastic was used to wrap and seal this box on 5 sides.
    image.jpeg

    Finished.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    Installed.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    The 3/4" drain fitting was also installed.
    image.jpeg
    Flood test soon.
     
  6. I dig it brother! Best of luck.
     
  7. Thanks carlsbarn. Fun project. Turning out really well as a concept so far. I think it has lots of potential...
     
  8. Gavita Hung.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
     
  9. Flood test lasted for 12 hours. 20 gallons of water were added bringing water level to within 1/4 of the top on the low (drain) side. Everything was perfect as expected.
    Water level at 10 gallons.
    image.jpeg

    15 gallons.
    image.jpeg

    20 gallons
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
     
  10. #10 Radicali, Jan 1, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2017
    Air.

    The exhaust 8" Maxfan is mounted, pushed up against the plastic and traced. That is the outer circle seen. Then I pull back the fan and draw a new circle on the inside about 1/2" radius less. This is the inner circle.
    image.jpeg
    Take a sharp razor blade and cut out the inner circle. The plastic will stretch over the fan to for a tight seal when it is installed. A hole was cut to allow the Gavita power cord out of the structure.
    image.jpeg

    The Gavita power cord need to be secured in place and the cord hole in the plastic repaired.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    Inside the completed exhaust air exchange box.
    image.jpeg
    Notes: It would have been easier to mount the exhaust fan prior to installing the Gavita as I needed access to the fan from inside. It wasn't that big of a deal, but not the preferable order of events. I happened to be waiting for ducting to arrive at my hydro store and chose to wait on all air until it did arrive.

    Intake air 8" Maxfan is mounted in front of an exhaust from another chamber. The Gavita will run on an opposite schedule as that chamber. While the Gavita is on, the exhaust chamber will be off and providing cool air. When the Gavita is off, warm air will be provided.
    image.jpeg

    Intake air connection to the Gavita chamber.
    image.jpeg

    Intake fan, exhaust fan, and Gavita are all ON!
    image.jpeg
     
  11. Tuesday 12-19-16 Clone
    Sunday 1-1-17 Veg

    8 Thunder Bomb clones fresh out of the ez-cloner.
    image.jpeg

    24 total Thunder Bomb clones to transplant and choose from.
    image.jpeg

    All 24 transplanted up into the veg tray.
    image.jpeg


    I did have a round of clones and veg plants prior to this, but when I went to transplant into flower at Day 9 of Veg they were too tall already. A couple days wait and I have a perfect crew of Thunder Bomb to choose from. Sweet.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. #12 Radicali, Jan 8, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2017
    Plastic doors were made from Panda Film. 42.5" was measured and cut in a perfectly strait line off the roll. This was required twice. The resulting sheets are 10' X 42.5".
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    Each sheet is folded three times in equidistant sections and I carefully cut strait down each crease to form 6 total doors (4 from one sheet and 2 from another) measuring 30"L X 42.4"H. The 6th door was made a little less than 30"L later when it was installed.

    3/4" Velcro was attached top and bottom with staples every 8" and several staples around the joints.
    image.jpeg

    The second piece of Velcro was installed up top and the sticky side exposed. Each door was installed with the bottom end hanging free. A 4" flap was left to overlap each door joint.
    image.jpeg

    The second Velcro piece was then installed on the bottom leaving the sticky side covered. Each door was pulled strait and the door joint permanent markered on the Velcro. A razor blade was tapped into the marker line severing the Velcro all the way through. The door joints in the Velcro were cut this way top and bottom all the way around.
    image.jpeg
    The sticky side of the bottom Velcro was removed and each door"stuck into place.

    Velcro was pulled back and joints staples. Each door joint was labeled top and bottom.
    image.jpeg

    16 Eye Screws were installed in the ceiling. 1 above each plant and 1 in between each plant. These will be manditory for supporting the side heavy occupants and "engineering" their branches to absorb maximum light.
    image.jpeg

    Structure complete and on.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
     
  13. Tuesday 12-19-16 Clones Taken. 13 days in clone.

    Sunday 1-1-17 Transplant into Veg. 7 days in Veg.

    Sunday 1-8-17 Day 0 (First 12 hour night)
    20 days from the clones being taken to the start of Flower.

    Here is the crew. Looking very nice.
    image.jpeg
    Tallest is in the lower left and shortest is in the upper right.
    They measure:
    1 @ 4&1/4"
    1 @ 4"
    1 @ 3&3/4"
    2 @ 3&5/8"
    2 @ 3&1/2"
    1 @ 2&7/8" (Destined for the Solo Cup)

    7 plants will be grown in Small Red Airpots in Coco. They hold about 1.25 gallons each. The base is run up two nipples.
    image.jpeg

    Final step of transplant is to add a little coco inside the 3" coco pot for moisture retention since they start with so little root mass and water holding ability.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    1 entire 50L bag of Coco transplanted up all plants.

    Here is the smallest.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    The smallest plant is doing a Solo Cup Challenge and here is the cup.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg

    Transplanted.
    image.jpeg

    Everyone in. Plants received 1 hour of veg time at 600 Watts before their 12 hour night started.
    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
     

Share This Page