Or better yet..... Take some sheet metal, bend the edges so you have a square box.... sort of like this.. but bigger... IMG_2126 by jakesterjammin posted Aug 30, 2017 at 8:30 PM Then cut out an 8" hole in the top and use a 8" duct take-off IMG_2135 by jakesterjammin posted Aug 30, 2017 at 8:30 PM Then screw that to the top of the LED then use an 8" flex duct and to an 8" blower that sets on the top of the tent or the side...
Well im kinda miffed , because I think the turbine exhaust fan is of a good size cause it will suck the sides of the tent in really bad if zipped up , and like I said my two 300 watt mars hydro light fans are inches from my carbon filter , I have a fan running from the outside of the tent bringing air in , and an ocolating fan on the inside , you would think it would keep the room cool I'll add sum pics Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Maybe attempt to fit one inside one of the big air cooled hoods? How big are they compared to say the marine variety of the same mars leds? Any idea. Sent from my SM-G955F using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Naaaa, I used a 980cfm blower on a 3x3 tent and that would flex the sides in when it kicked on, but didn't suck the sides in enough to worry about it. But if I opened one of the intake flaps at the bottom of the tent the blower didn't even move the sides when it kicked on... Of course if you have no intake flaps open it's going to suck the sides in a little. But you'd be shocked how much them tent leak. Well it depends how the top comes off and how much space you have inside... I'd still build a low profile sheet metal box to fit the top of the LED and hook a blower to it with a take-off.. You can put a blower speed controller on the blower and control the blower's speed according to chamber temp.
Humidity can help buffer higher temps i can run 88° in the summer with 55% humidity without burn under a 1000w hps but i exchange air fast. Also where are you thermometers cause top of the tent temps and bottom can be up to 6° difference with good passive airflow. Direct light on a thermometer is inaccurate. So hide one from direct light at the top and bottom. Also its easier to bring temps down if you can exhaust in a straight line without bends
Great idea that jake My latest creation...SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE first run to test before the gorilla glue #4 go in! SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE & GHOST WRECK
Thanks bro... If ya check around with the Old School users here, I've been building grow chambers forever, so once and a while I have a good idea... LOL
I am gonna try making a grown chamber for a mother to be kept in or near my other plants for my mother's so I'm Defoe gonna have to have a good go at that. 100% I've noticed you been a round along while most people disappear eventually into the dust never to be seen again. I am a bit of a lurker. I've always been on skunk skool and rollitup it's where I did a load of my online grows and learnt a load about it but I've always lurked here too never joined in the past dunno why. Old skool growers have so many neat tricks man they always work too. My latest creation...SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE first run to test before the gorilla glue #4 go in! SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE & GHOST WRECK
My thermometer is at the top of my tent , with the top digital display , the bottom temp is from the probe thats at the top of my plant , is it better to have all flaps sealed up and my exhaust fan on high ? Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I would try that , but I'm worried about overloading my power breaker , I only have a 4" dryer duct to work with , I have a carbon filter connected to my ducting (prob 6 feet total) with the centrfical fan outside the tent going to the dryer vent , also noise is a real concern , ive wrapped all my ducting with insulated sleeves and foil tape , my fan is inside a cardboard box wrapped inside styrofoam and then foil tape , do you think maybe my carbon filter is killing my suction , even thou when the tent is sealed it sucks the sides in but seems to not even them pull the heat out ? Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Buy rhino sono duct it's brilliant. Get an acoustic fan preferably a vortex hyperfan will do. 6 inch will help a lot. It's only 15 quid for 10m of combi or 30 for 10m of sono. My latest creation...SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE first run to test before the gorilla glue #4 go in! SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE & GHOST WRECK
Also fans are always more quiet when u hang them bud. Screw 2 mounts too it and hang it on string from a sturdy ceiling beam. My latest creation...SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE first run to test before the gorilla glue #4 go in! SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE & GHOST WRECK
Heat in an out is summer I struggled with massively at the beginning. Not enough in of not cold enough air is 99 x the problem out of 100. I had loads of exhaust fans and intakes n all sorts n was stuck up 39 ish. I now run only 3. Cold must come in dead bottom. You will need a minimum of 4 inches more inlet total then exhaust if u rely on negative pressure I have 16inch of exhaust out and 20 inch in, In passive vents 2 x 6inch 1 x 8 inch. Until I opened the extra 6 inch again I was too hot. Any less inches in and it's too hot. I also played clever with the ducting. I have a box at the floor under the curtain with a big hole in the top. 4 x 6inch ducts and 1 x 8inch duct going from it... i tried to keep them as equal length as possible. 2 go to the cool tube inlets and the other 3 go to the passive vents. Temps been bang on since. What I forgot and most people forget is that unless you open enough passive inlets the exhaust fans are useless. to allow them to pass the correct amount of air you need to allow them to free flow. My latest creation...SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE first run to test before the gorilla glue #4 go in! SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE & GHOST WRECK
How many cfm.is your fan? I'd run at minimum 400 cfm. Add a reostat if ya need to dial down. I had 600 cfm running at 75% to cool a 6x6 with 1000w of led light. This was in a basement . Room temp was below 75 for me
Yeah, that's probably a more efficient way of exhausting the heat from the tent & I should look into that. But that won't solve the secondary challenge I have of odor control. The low speed setting of my fan keeps temps stable inside the tent, but unless I exhaust through my carbon filter I create an odor problem. So this requires me to run a single fan performing heat AND odor control. Traditional HID Cooltubes create a closed loop system passing through the light without pulling any air / stink from the tent But with the LED light form factor, I'm forced into filtering all exhaust air from the tent. One solution I can think of is to run a freestanding carbon filter / fan in the room. The room is about 1500 cubic feet, and with my fan rated at 420cfm, it's going to filter all the air in the room about once every four minutes. I should be able to experiment with a timer setting to run 50% of the time (15 min. on, 15 min. off, for ex.) which should still control odor. And since I'm 50% on/off, should extend the life of the filter 2X longer. The only other viable solution I can think of is to build a cooltube- like housing for the LED. I can leave the light-side of the fixture open to the tent, and essentially build a sealed 5-sided box (four sides and a top) with inlet and outlet ducts that can connect to the tent inlet and exhaust ports. My only concerns with this are (a) fairly precise sheet metal work must be airtight and (b) will the higher airflow through the closed loop box create any issues with the internal LED fans? It's going to have a lot more airflow than the internal LED housing fans, but since I'm not sucking air THROUGH the LED, I don't think it should overdrive the internal fans???
Shit, Jakester, I read your first post reply & the second one changed pages & I didn't even see it until now. So my "...only other viable solution I can think of" was the same as your 2nd suggestion. So a cooltube-like vent box on top of the LED enclosure might just be the answer. Thanks Bro.
Yeah, if you make a sheet metal box so it fits on the top of the LED and screws into the sides, that will suck air through the top fan opening on top of the LED and the airflow will go through the side vent slots, through the top fan vents and out the duct work.... You want the blower outside the tent and you can hook a carbon filter right on the end of the blower. They make carbon filters that you can open the top and replace the carbon which you can buy on fleabay or amazonie.... That should not only remove the heat but will also control the tent's smell before it even enters the room... If you try to control the smell once it's in the room, then it's going to be harder because the room is larger and the carbon filter will just filter half or a quarter of the room and won't suck the whole room's air through the filter... If that all makes sense... lol EDIT: Oh and you do not want to put a glass in front of that LED because the curve of a cooltube glass diminishes the light because it fractures and scatters the light... A cooltube is a cheap way out for a lamp and they're not really good for light intensity, you're better off with a hood over a cooltube, and I use them because again, they're cheap...
My cool tubes have proper dimpled reflectors inside and out side on the sides lol. exact same material as the big hoods and same pattern of dimples. My latest creation...SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE first run to test before the gorilla glue #4 go in! SOUR DEISEL, STRAWBERRY HAZE & GHOST WRECK
So I think I'm getting the picture and sounds (functionally) a lot like what I'm doing now, except without the sheet metal box. Since I started this tent, I've relied upon the LED enclosure's internal fans to vent straight up inside the tent like they are designed to do, and then vent the tent with a centrifugal fan outside the tent, connected to a Phresh carbon filter. So air is pulled in the upper left vent port, thru the tent (intercepting the rising heat in theory) and out the right vent port, thru the fan and out the filter. This keeps temps stable inside the tent. Pic here: I think I like the sheet metal box idea though, might give a bit quicker exhaust. The Phresh filter is re-loadable; I bought a box full of extra carbon awhile back and so far I've re-done my CAN-33 and my little 4" Phresh flter that's on my 2X2 tent with the 250W HID Cooltube. But I'm just afraid running that new Phresh filter 20X 4 in the 2.25' X 2.25' tent is gonna burn through the carbon like a fart in church. Oh well, time for experimentation after my North Country sojourn this coming weekend. Check back with ya later.