Any surfers here on GC? Ive been surfing since 4th grade after a accidentally received my neighbors surfer magazine. I currently own something like 20 boards spread out over 5 states and 2 countries (kinda) the other country being Barbados. After surfing soup bowl the cruise line wouldn't let me bring the board back on... They let it off but expected me to leave it? so i sold it at a local beach for $40 US equivalent and some rum cakes. I also still own my first board which all surfers should. I dont ride it because its 95% sun-cure and its is full of water but ill always keep it. I used to be a very talented and competitive "short board" surfer. Soaking in the big wave, big air, big trick scene that is now ruining the surfing scene in most parts of the world. Recently Ive been buying used long boards 8ft to 10 ft and just having fun. I work as a life guard summers so i surf at least 8 hours a day and i don't think it will ever get old. Im planning on taking a trip to mavriks this winter 2 friends so all of you that live by San Francisco or Santa Cruz or anywhere close should come take some pics with a fellow blade when i go. So thats me. Who else surfs?
I used to surf a lot, Mostly Ventura, CA beaches, used to hit up Trestles every now and then. Then I wrecked my shoulder and the paddle-out is too much of a bitch. If I do surf anymore its just longboarding at Malibu or county line on a borrowed board. Mavricks is a dope spot. The break is way gnarley, I've been up to Half Moon Bay quite a few times (mostly Marvricks wasn't really breaking, I hear its like Jaws and only breaks certain times during the year). If I wasn't in SoCal I'd be down to photograph....
Never surfed. Only parts of Florida actually get good waves on the regular. I do skimboard and I go every other 4-5 months lol. Fun shit. Use to be real good at as a kid.
I'm just learning how to surf now, it's alot of fun. We don't get the greatest swells in south florida but they do come. I was out in the water about 2 hours ago without a board, just messin around in the waves with a buddy and got caught in a nasty ass rip current. I really thought I was going to drown, I just couldn't seem to swim out of it. But, I fought against it on an angle(probably un-wisely) and managed to escape.. Whew!! even when the water was only to my knees I could hardly walk it was so strong. I'm still kinda seeing stars, and am extremely exausted. Won't be repeating that any time soon. Our dumb asses were on a un-guarded beach nowhere near any other people too..