Good outdoor soil mix?

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Outdoors' started by mjr99, Mar 24, 2009.

  1. Im thinking of planting in burlap sacs this year and using 2 parts MG moisture control, 2 parts earth, 1 part perlite, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part worm castings. I figured this way i wouldnt have to do anything but water until flowering. Thoughts?
     
  2. Not enough nutrition.
     
  3. MG moisture control = no no, it has time released ferts that can really punish your plants and poison them in serious cases.
     

  4. I am wicked confused by you Cantharis as of late.

    I have seen you in many posts now telling members to avoid growing in bags or now even burlap sacks, for the reason of poor nourishment.

    I am growing in 16 gallon Smart Pots. I will be using pre-mixed and purchased Coast of Maine, premium potting soil. I suggest you check out the product line from Coast of Maine, it is incredible.

    I will be using the entire Fox Farms nutrient lineup. This includes the Grow Big, the Big Bloom and the Tiger Bloom.

    I am getting confused because I know the potting soil has nice trace elements in it, wouldn't the primary source of nutrients your plant gets come from the fertilizers you are using?

    How could growing in a bag or a pot, or in soil for that matter, be low on nutrients if you are adding them through water feeding??
     
  5. I think he was just saying not enough nutes for the whole season. Like, OP said, verm and perl, and MG and just earth, but only one part worm castings, and he was planning on using only that throughout the season without adding any additional nutes.

    Because that would be quite a malnutritious meal for a plant.... I think.
     
  6. Liquor, I like to give nutes from 2 sources, some dug into the soil, and liquid nutes added throughout the grow, as the dug in material gets gradually transformed into rootball..
     
  7. You need a better mix than that and more work will be required than you imagine to get GOOD results.
     

  8. How do you know what i imagine ese? Im going to have alot of plants spread out so i wont be able to feed as much as i like. Doesnt the Miracle Grow feed for up to 3 months?
     
  9. MG sucks it will burn ur plants dont recommend it at all
     

  10. I am really hoping you are not referring to me. I am almost positive I know what I am doing.
     
  11. I would increase the % of worm castings, or better still add some horse shit.
     
  12. breakdown and score some promix bx, never fails
     

  13. what, then just feed them 1/2 strength every other watering?
     
  14. I thought you werent using liquid ferts?
     
  15. i would just try out 1/4 strength and see how the plants would react, first couple of grows are trial and error.
     
  16. Possible soil mixes according to your region:

    Start them in solo cups at home -yard- or indoors or outdoors (add slug repellant and copper rings to repel slugs). I placed a crate on an elevated bush with small pots inside the crate. 1 seed per pot. In the solo cups: 50 % store bought good potting soil (no ferts though), 20 worm castings, 30 native soil (dirt) and/or (builder's) sand (river sand is heavier but works ok too).



    For a 2x2x2 hole:


    -1,5 cups blood meal (N)
    -1 cup bone meal (P) or alfalfa meal
    - 1/2 shovel composted manure (I have a kind with horse, poulty manures and seaweed/kelp mixed in for K).
    - some rock dust


    +

    [FONT=&quot]-20-30 native soil (the top soil, top 7-8 inches of soil from holes you dig or elsewhere if your soil is all clay for example.

    -The 5 things above you mix and put at bottom hole. Cover with mulch, leave for 1-2 months. The worms and micro organisms will come and eat the mix and be excellent to protect and aid your plant.

    - What to add after 2 months: it depends on your region and type of land you use (a swampy area in a hot region will still be very wet of course).

    - for dry regions on a dry spot (like me): add 20 worm castings, 30 compost, 20-30 vemiculite/peat.

    - for wet region: add same first 2 but 20/30 perlite (or builder's sand)/peat.

    The remaining 20-30 are the top soil and manures/meals/kelp that are at the bottom.

    Also add 1/4 cup dolomitic lime powder.

    Water with light teas after 1 month in soil. 2 or 3 shots of w.c tea or nettles (N), fish emulsion (N)(or enzyme emulsion-better-: see Lumperdawgs). Or compost tea (N) etc... Ratio: 1/20. Go 1/30 very light at first so they get a taste of it first you know.

    When the buds appear,for ex., use high P liquid bat guano.

    Feed them K in veg and flowering. And a little of N in flowering. A little of P in veg.

    So in veg: N + K (with a bit of P)

    In flow: P + K (with a bit of N)

    Twice in season epsom salts (1tsp per gallon)

    Last 3 weeks, give them just molasses(1-2 TBS per gallon). N.B: You can kill them with too much organic nutes too. A little goes a long way.

    Dig a hole with a mound if it rains a lot. And use more grit/sand/perlite.

    Dig a hole without a mound if it's dry. Line bottom and/or sides with brown paper bags (decompose with time), use more peat/vermi. If it's veeery hard to access, use water crystals (synthetic though). Some say taste not affected but it's not organic anymore.

    Good luck. [/FONT]
     

Share This Page