Going to be close

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Outdoors' started by JmJ, Sep 12, 2009.

  1. #1 JmJ, Sep 12, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 12, 2009
    Well Lets see, I put these in around early - mid June. They have probably been flowering for about 3 weeks. Need some other growers advice. I want them to finish before the frost but I have a feeling they are not going to. Any opinions on how to get the buds going quicker?

    I tied these bad girls down since they were babies, but man did these things shoot up like I couldn't believe.. What a weed. Gotta keep a low profile :) Oh, there are two plants there if you couldn't tell.. My camera does not take very great close up (macro) shots as you will.

    Anyway I just wanted to know how my plants are looking by everyone's standards.

    3rd picture as you can see are two plants. The 5th one is the 6th one, just brought out the color and sharpness in photoshop. Enjoy

    Attached Files:

    • 1.jpg
      File size:
      438.2 KB
    • 2.jpg
      File size:
      223.7 KB
    • 3.jpg
      File size:
      438.4 KB
    • 4.jpg
      File size:
      189.6 KB
    • 5.jpg
      File size:
      265.8 KB
    • 6.jpg
      File size:
      206.7 KB
    • 7.jpg
      File size:
      192 KB
    • 100_7369.jpg
      File size:
      144 KB

  2. here is something i was reading that i thought you might find helpful.

    Plant varieties which flower late, in areas where late spring frosts may occur. Often times a plant will survive frost on the foliage, but the same frost would kill any flower buds which have emerged.
    Because cold air, being denser than warm air sinks, low lying areas of the garden can be several degrees colder. Consequently frost may occur in these areas when there is no frost evident anywhere else in the garden. Plant tender species on higher ground or on slopes where the cold air will flow past the plants as it moves to the low point. Any sloping area is less prone to frost, because the cold air can't settle there as easily.
    Precondition your plants to withstand cold temperatures by discontinuing fertilizing in early September, so that no new foliage is on the plant when cold temperatures arrive. Older leaves are much tougher and more able to withstand a frost.

    When the inevitable occurs and a frost is predicted, there are several things which you can do to protect your plants.

      • [*]Water the garden thoroughly before nightfall. The soil will release moisture into the air around your plants during the night, keep the air somewhat warmer.
        [*]Even a slight breeze will prevent cold air from settling near the ground during the night. You can help keep frost from forming by providing this breeze artificially with an electric fan. Be sure to protect the fan and all electrical connections from water and the elements.
        [*]Cover up before dusk! By the time it gets dark much of the stored heat in the garden has already been lost. If you have time, build a simple frame around the plant, or row of plants. (Even a single stake can be used in many cases.) Then drape a cover of newspaper, cardboard, plastic tarps, bed sheeting or any other lightweight material over the frame to create a tent. If you don't have time to create a frame, lay the protective cover directly onto the plant. This will help to slow the loss of heat rising from the foliage and the ground. Remove the covers in the morning, once the frost has thawed, to let the light and fresh air back in, and to prevent overheating by the sun.
        [*]For smaller individual plants you can use glass jars, milk jugs with the bottom removed, paper cups upside down flower pots as heat traps. Don't forget to remove these covers in the morning.
        [*]You can collect heat during the day by painting plastic milk jugs black and filling them with water. Place them around your plants where they will collect heat during the day. Water loses heat more slowly than either soil or air. This collected heat will radiate out throughout the night.
        [*]Potted plants are particularly susceptible to frosts because the roots are also unprotected. If you are unable to move your container plants indoors or under cover remember to also wrap the pot in burlap or bubble wrap, or simply bury the pot in soil in addition to protecting the foliage.
  3. Thanks yotopgun, very interesting. I may have to build some sort of temporary green house thing. Maybe some pvc pipe and drape a tarp over it. How do my plants look?
  4. #4 yotopgun, Sep 12, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 12, 2009

    no prob. there looking very good to me. lots of new growth. looks like she is in early flower. i think you may get away with the frost by possibly doing as you said by building a temporary green house. and maybe possibly look into getting a warmer. you know something like what is used for reptiles in there cages. maybe dig a hole in the ground next to the plant(if your in ground) and place the flat bed warmer about 1' deep under the soil to warm up the nearby area. make sure you can check the temp with some kind of probe. that coupled with the clear plastic greenhouse sounds like a viable way to fight back the frost. good luck. would love to hear how she turns out.:smoke:

    oh i forgot to say, if you are in pots you might want to place the flatbed plastic warmer under the pot on low to start. then possibly turn it up a notch depending on the soil tempurature. GL
  5. #5 JmJ, Sep 12, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 12, 2009
    Not really early, but how long do sativa's usually take to flower? If I'm not mistaken she started at least 3 weeks ago, if not more. I think the reason why she's not filling out fast is because all the rain we've had this year, and hardly any sunny days. It's been mostly overcast.
  6. Yours have a ways to go. Sativa are slow growers with flowering to maturity dependent on strain. I grow indica due to weather, our first annual frost date is mid-Oct, but for sativa you could be looking at November.
  7. Coincidentally, my plants are on a high ridge. Thanks for the info, now I'm a lot less worried about frost. This place will be the last area to get hit by it.
  8. Mine are kind of in a low area. I will hopefully have an update of pics tomorrow..
  9. Update. Took some pics earlier. Fed them each a tablespoon of grandma's molasses with a half gallon of water.

    Attached Files:

  10. And More..

    How does she look? I figured another few weeks or so.

    Attached Files:

  11. Realistically, you have 4-6 weeks left by the look of it. Just comparing it to my outdoor grow.
  12. Oh yeah. A way to make them flower quicker would be to shorten their day by covering them up before the sun goes down. It gets difficult with larger plants.
  13. Well I checked the trichs today and I would say all of them are cloudy, or at least 3/4 of them are. While checking them out I may have seen some trichomes that looked amber on the stem, but not the head (ball part on top). Is this possible, because I'm not completely sure how they change colors (top to bottom, vise versa?)

    I have been covering them up for the past few days because it has been getting pretty cold outside in the 40's. Last night it got to 33F I think, and had some ice on my vehicle window. Is this too cold or does my tarp method help. How long do you experienced growers think my plant will last if I keep doing this seeing how it is exposed to low tempatures. My fan leaf stems are straight purple and the buds changed colors, some are still green.

    If it helps, I will get photos tomorrow.

  14. #14 JmJ, Oct 2, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 3, 2009

    But man they have really put on some weight since last week and gave her another shot of molasses.

    Attached Files:

  15. those buds are really startin to fill out nice man. good job, can't wait to see the final product!
  16. Thanks for the support man. I can't wait either hehe.. I will keep it updated and take pictures of the harvest which I am estimating a week but definetly before the frost comes which is going to be soon.
  17. gettin big

    the shortening of the amount of daylight as a growing year progresses isnt neccessarily the driving force beind bringing a plant into flower

    instead, its often the case that plants are experiencing a greater loss of daylight time, or time in direct sunlight, because of the amount of growth around them (the canopy of plantlife that blocks out the sun)

    exposure to colder temperatures, shorter days, and also the amount of light blocked out by other plantlife are all cues for your plant to start preparing for winter
    and protecting its seeds

    or in the case of sensi trees
    producing resin to get you schtooned

    be nice to the guys who post in your thread

    "Power Punching" Peter
  18. Here we are, almost 2013. I have 3 LSD, and 3 Violator Kush at just finishing 8 weeks. I always sample along the way and I must say, even overnight drying on a radiator this stuff smelled awesome. The smoke, thick and perfumy. Not good for me in the morning though. 2 hits and everything was askew. Could barly find my clothes to get dressed. Good stuff Maynard. I am going to let these pups go about 10 weeks, Short flower times attract customers for seed companies, and thats OK but I have found a little extra flower time can work wonders. My 2nd indoor grow and still making the first 3,000 mistakes that i hope never to repeat but that is how I learn, bo bo, then onwards. You get so much information here, you just have to take your own experience and muddle though the good stuff and the crap. As far as a hobby, it's a lot of fun (sometimes) and I figure this year past (2012) I have saved about $1400. Also, I never had to hit the streets and go though all that BS. A happy farmer wishes everyone a good gorw! Moshe in Berlin

Share This Page