Germination the Right way

I love grasscity because of the total honesty. But when you disagree with some who have "done it theirway" for so long that they have forgotten why, you seem to get corrected. I want to say up front that what I post is what works for me. It is in no way to be taken as "gospel" or the only way of doing it. Before I start this thread, I want to quote the man, that is Mandala seed company.

Here's the problem I am having;

1) some say to soak the seeds over night in water. Hog wash.
2). some say to soak them in paper towels...again, Hog wash.
3) some use jiffy peat pellets/ rooter plugs, again, Hog wash.
4) some say to cover seeds with plastic or a dome, again, I say Hog wash.
5) some use heating pads and I say, better not screw up, you will cook em.

I sometimes wonder if the DEA, or or some School Board member hasn't infilterated these boards to post such non-sense as I have read in the preceeding weeks and months. I just can't believe that a sane and rational grower would fall for this stuff.

So here's the facts. You can believe them or you can just go about your merry way of screwing up your crops, destroying the genetics and in general, fuck everything up. Let me quote the source first before you guys jump on me.

Planting Seeds and Germination​

Mandala Seeds places great emphasis on the quality of the seed stock and we guarantee that the seeds from all products are fresh and viable. Seeds harvested from each mother plant are checked for optimal germination rates before they are approved for sale! In large tests (1000 or more) our seeds achieve a germination rate of 99,6%. Our seed stock is refreshed every 6-12 months! Therefore seed vendors and customers can be certain to purchase and store viable seeds at any time.
Due to our high standard of pollination, attentive grow methods, and the dedicated hand selection of seed stock for sales, our seeds are always perfectly matured and can be quite large. They also possess a particularly intact and hard seed hull. The robust genetics of our cannabis varieties, and our innovative Deluxe seed production methods, leads to the development of healthy and strong seeds with a good resistance against environmental factors. Due to the firm seed hull and large size some of our seeds may require a slightly longer germination time. Most seeds sprout in record time and others take a bit longer. Once the seedling grows through the substrate it will develop quickly and vigorously regardless of the germination time.
For an optimal germination result the seeds should be planted DIRECTLY into the substrate. We clearly advise against using pre-germination methods or soaking. Please do not place the seeds into a glass of water or in moist paper tissues. Fresh and healthy seeds prefer a nurturing and airy substrate to germinate in – just as mother nature has meant it to be. Cannabis is a plant species originating from semi-arid and temperate biotopes and the vast majority of modern cannabis hybrids contain a substantial percentage of these genetics. Cannabis seeds are not adapted to swampy wetlands, but they are suited for germinating in well drained soil/substrate. In nature they rot if they fall into a puddle of water...and there are no paper tissues lying around either. Taking into account these botanical facts, it is quite logical that by creating germination conditions that are similar to those of the natural habitat one can expect the best results.
What happens if one uses pre-germination methods?
1. Soaking seeds in water/wet paper towels is a method which can be used for old seeds (3+ years) that are drying up and losing germination power; and for pure land race equatorial strains such as from Africa. Both factors do not apply to our seeds. Fresh seeds have a healthy embryo whose cells are filled with water. But excess water causes the cells to bloat, depletes oxygen and leads to the tissue rotting away before the seed embryo can germinate. Old seeds have lost water in the cell tissue, the embryo starts to shrivel, which is why germination rates drop the older the seeds are. Therefore, old seeds (ie. 3+ years) can soak up more water before adverse conditions cause them to rot. This is one of the main reasons why various seed stock reacts differently to pre-germination methods. Especially novice growers make a lot of mistakes with pre-germination methods such as soaking seeds in water for up to 1-2 days. Even if one chooses to pre-germ seeds it has to be done correctly.
It is in a growers best interest to choose a germination method with the lowest risk of complications. Because we want customers to have the highest success rate possible we recommend the most convenient and safest method. This does not mean it is the only option. We simply believe it carries the lowest risk. In fact, planting seeds directly in the substrate is also the most plant friendly method for any type of seed stock. The reasons are explained below in paragraph 2 & 3.
2. Placing healthy & fresh seeds in water/wet tissue can lead to the development of fungi or bacteria on the seed hull. Lack of oxygen and contaminating substances in the water/wet tissue promote fungal growth which can be transported to the substrate later on. Often the seed simply rots away if left for too long in a glass of water, or wrapped up in wet tissue.
3. Once the seed sprouts in a glass of water or paper tissue it already has the taproot growing out of the cracked seed hull. While transplanting the germinated seed it is very difficult, indeed impossible, to prevent damage to the delicate taproot. Many sprouted seedlings handled in this way show retarded development, or even simply fail to appear out of the substrate after transplantation. Handling seedlings this way can impair the health & vigour of the plant for the duration of it's life cycle - especially if other disturbing factors occur during the early stages of growth.
Professional horticulturists rarely use pre-germination methods to actually grow out the seedlings because of the shock suffered from transplanting them. For example, we use the paper tissue method only as a quick test for germination rates of aged seed stock from our genetic repository. This allows us to see beforehand how many seeds we have to put in soil to get the amount of plants we require for breeding projects.
Germinating cannabis seeds is not difficult. All you need is some basic information on what is important and everything should work out fine.
Here are our tips for germination:
Please use high quality soil or rockwool starter cubes for germinating seeds. Do not use jiffy's/peat pellets/rooter plugs: the acidic pH of pure peat can inhibit germination of cannabis seeds.
Soil: take 8-10 cm/3-4” (diameter) pots and fill them with quality potting soil. Press the soil slightly down and make a 1,5 cm/0,6” deep hole with a pencil or finger. Place the seed in a horizontal position in the hole (this is the easiest method). Fill the hole and gently tap down the soil. Use chlorine free water (preferably good mineral water without gas) with a pH of 6-6.5 to water the pots. The soil should be uniformly moist but not soggy or waterlogged. Use a spoon to water if necessary. Put the pots at a warm location. Temperatures at 25C/75F or higher accelerate germination. Take care that the soil does not dry out and that the pots don't stand in the cold (ie. at or under 21C/70F). Misting the soil surface with water spray is not particularly effective. Rather, you should water the pots properly if the soil surface dries up.
Rockwool: immerse the rockwool cubes in luke-warm water with a pH of 5.6-5.8 until the rockwool is evenly wet. Overnight soaking is not required for starter cubes. Let the water drip off...squeeze lightly to assist. Place the seed in a horizontal position into the hole (this is the easiest method). The taproot can grow downwards assisted by gravity. Alternatively, you can also place the seed into the hole vertically with the rounded end facing up (cannabis seeds sprout by opening the shell at the pointy end where the taproot grows out). Cover the hole with a small piece of rockwool. Choose a fluffy piece of rockwool...you don't want to tightly plug the hole because the seedling has to grow out with ease. Water the rockwool cubes with a weak nutrient solution of 10-15% of the recommended dosage (or EC 0,6) and pH 5.6-5.8. You can also germinate using pure water. Put the rockwool cubes at a warm location. Temperatures at 25C/75F or higher accelerate germination. Take care that the rockwool cubes do not dry out or stand in the cold (ie. at or under 21C/70F). They should also not sit in water. Usually the cubes require to be moistened with pH adjusted water every 1-2 days. Use chlorine free water such as mineral water. Within 3-4 days the seedlings should appear out of the cubes. Hot tip: to prevent the cubes from sitting in water put some perlite at the bottom of the tray for drainage.
IMPORTANT:
* Don't cover pots with plastic wrap, don't use a humidity dome, or place pots/rockwool cubes in a propagator that's completely covered! This prevents fresh air exchange, raises humidity to excess levels, and easily facilitates the spread of fungus. The seeds then rot before they can germinate. Excess humidity coupled with lack of oxygen is the #1 cause for poor germination results!
If you germinate your seeds at room temperature, and have properly watered the substrate, there is no need to be concerned that it will dry out overnight. Only the substrate requires sufficient water for the seeds to germinate - the outside humidity can and should be be low to moderate (ie. max. 55%). Low humidity does not interfere with germination or healthy seedling growth. Remember: cannabis is not an orchid! Fungal spores are everywhere: in the air, in substrates, ... and they await the conditions to spread and attack organic substances such as seeds or the roots. Common fungal infections are pythium and fusarium. Young seedlings are also prone to such infections because their cell tissue is very soft. Over watering and/or high humidity trigger such diseases like “damping off” which quickly kills seedlings.
* Do not use heating mats. A dysfunctional heating mat, or a mistake in the temperature control, can easily boil the seeds or dry up the substrate and shrivel the feshly emerging seedling. Your pots/rockwool cubes should be placed in a space with ambient room temperature (ie. 24-26C/75-78F). In the winter use a small electric or gas heater to warm up your grow space. You can also switch on the HPS lamp and put the pots at a close distance underneath.
Seedling care:
Within 3-5 days the seedlings should appear out of the soil.
As soon as the first pair of leaves grow on the seedlings transplant them into 14-16 cm/5,5-6,5” pots, so that they have sufficient space for their root development and nutrients. You can also choose larger pots if you are confident that you won't over water. Seedlings require sufficient light (this applies to the strength and length of daylight or artificial light) and fresh air to grow. Switch on your lamp(s) as soon as the first seedlings appear at the latest.
Do not fertilize in the first weeks of growth on soil! This is the #1 cause for sick plants. Rather, transplant into high quality soil and bigger containers as the plants grow larger.
Recommendations:

• Take advantage of our low prices and plant an extra 1-2 seeds if you don't use the whole pack of 10 seeds. Although we, and the plants, do everything in our power to produce 100% viable seeds please remember this is a biological product. Therefore, even if a seed looks perfect from the outside, it can't be prevented that a minor % of seeds does not germinate, or that the seedling is not completely healthy. That's why it's a good idea to have an extra seed sprouting as a back-up and then you can always select the best seedlings for your grow.

• Keep your fingers from those ferts and potions. Yes, it happens again and again: growers feeding their seedlings on soil with mineral or biological fertilizers & rooting products, spraying them with homemade teas, or killing them not so softly with harsh biological pesticides. Seedlings are baby plants with delicate young leaves and roots. Let's put it this way: you don't feed a T-bone steak to a baby. Seedlings require 3 weeks to develop into stouter and tougher plants. During this phase of development a good soil mix and decent container size provides all the nutrients they require.

• Don't forget to check your water pH with every watering and use cheap vinegar to adjust it downwards instead of mineral salts (to prevent salt build-up).

• Mandala strains are unique in their high level vigor and fast growth. For optimal plant growth you don't require to perk them up with root stimulators. The Mandala genetics already come with an inbuilt turbo boost. Root stimulators can in some cases be counterproductive. To support the vigorous growth of our strains you should buy quality soil and choose/adjust container sizes according to the size of the plants. Rootbound plants quickly develop nitrogen deficiency and other deficiencies. “Rootbound” is a condition which exists when a potted has outgrown its container. The roots become entangled and matted together, and the growth of the becomes stunted.

Problems? Consult our Germination Troubleshooting Guide!
We wish you success! ​

 

As I pointed out at the beginning of the post, this is what works for me; "none of the above" but I keep reading guys who swear by paper towels, swear by soaking in water over night and a dozen other "home remedies" that really, if you think about it, defy common sense. But heres the thing, it works for them. they should keep on doing what they are doing. But if anyone has ever had "damping off" or seeds that failed to germinate, I think you should reconsider some of the advice the "old timer's" are giving you.
The only thing I hoped to accomplish from this post was to make a couple of new guys on the block stop and think before they drink the Kool-Aide, and take in most of the post from people who really don't have a clue what they are talking about. I actually read a post a few months back where a guy said "once your seed spouts from a paper towel, make sure you plant the seed in a cube with the root pointing upwards so gravity can turn it around and make it stronger". I was thinking as I read that; "Wow, I bet a DEA agent is laughing his ass off knowing he just killed another plant". Then I saw the same thing posted on a U-Tube video on how to germinate. Once a rumor starts, people just pick it up as gospel and just keep on passing it around.
Try it both ways. Take five seeds out of a pack, soak them in water, put them in a paper towel, sit them on top of a heating blanket and if any of them sprout, put them under a humidity dome. Then drop five seeds into rockwool and see what happens. Keep em moist but not overly wet and then compare the germination. If you really want to get scientific, have a hundred or a thousand people do the same and compare the results. Something a seed company would do when their customers started complaining that the seeds would not germinate. When most of the complaints come from idiots who did just the opposite of what is recommended because they know better than the seed companies. Personally, I think the seed companies have it down to a science and some of the guys posting here are just daydreaming and wanting to sound important instead of helping others which is what I thought this site was all about. I am not trying to start a flame war. I am simply saying I think some of the post I read here is hogwash. I hope there a few guys out there who are willing to think about it a bit before blindly following some of the advice so freely given here. So if it works for you, drink the Kool-Aide and continue on your merry way.
Good luck and I hope we can overgrow the bastards, the right way.