GDPkushKILLer's 1st grow W/ pics

Discussion in 'Indoor Grow Journals' started by GDPkushKILLer, Oct 4, 2010.

  1. Somethings up :(

    3 have some yellowing issues, starts at the tips and just gets all crispy. Thinking a pH issue or a nitro def. I'll get pictures soon
     
  2. :( gl mate get pics quick so we all can help figure it out
     
  3. sounds like you've got a heat problem.

    get yourself an inline fan and exhaust into the attic or something..
     
  4. Agreed... But if you have yellowing and crisp at the tips its usually a sign of a little too much nutes. Good news is as long as it stays at the tips i wouldn't worry too much just dilute your concentration a little more. Heat issues are apparent in the pics though, what are your temps like in there?
     
  5. The thermo says around 84 avg through the day...I partly think its a heat/humidity b/c its only the ones directly under the bulb, the others seem ok. Moved the light up a bit today and just watered and fed some big bloom in case it is a nitro dif. I dont think it is nute burns as I haven't really fed them anything and when I did on the 2 occasions it was a pretty low dosage. The other possibility is an off pH, gonna look on ebay for one.

    I'll have pictures up later today
     
  6. Heres the pictures...The yellow/browning of the leaves starts on the lower sets, from the tip in.

    The stalks/stems all look pretty healthy, some of the leaves are even starting to have a resin feel to them. Lmk what you guys think it could be

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    Now, I do only believe there is a single problem....all plants that look like this all share very similar symptoms.


    Heres some pics of the crop as a whole. :hello:

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    One of the plants responded really well to the topping...looks like I have 4 stems growing from one of the tops:smoke:
     
  7. you may have had a slight burn at one point and those leaves took only a bit of damage and are just dying off it doesn't look too serious to me. all the damage is localized to the lower leaves right?
     
  8. yep...I wasnt overly worried..it was just bugging me lol :smoke:

    Another thread said the guy that sold him the clones said he could cut off the leaves once 50% had been yellow/brown. Is there any truth to this?
     
  9. yeah thats what i do, allows the plant to focus its efforts elsewhere.
     
  10. Subbed. Nice work man. I wana see the outcome of this
     
  11. hehe thanks for the words of encouragement :wave:
     
  12. Moved the lights up a little more to be safe. Anyone know what kind of fall off of spectrum/lumens over distance?
     
  13. Hmm, how is your PH doing? That yellow leaf with the dark blotches looks a lot like a phosphate deficiency. It could be from low temps, but if it is PH, there is another issue that goes along with that. With a PH lockout, you can have a nitrate buildup that is locking out the phosphate on top of just the PH doing so. Even if you correct your water, you would need to flush in order to get rid of the nitrates/salt buildup to free up the phosphates.

    That "clawing" downward of the leaf is another indicator to me that there is possibly a nitrate buildup locking out the phosphate.

    Hope that makes sense for you. I'm pulling for ya man :smoke:
     

  14. good stuff slocal.

    also how far away do you have your lights. you want them as close as possible without then getting too hot. do you have a way of measuring the temp at the top of the canopy? thats how i know how close to keep my lights. My 400w HPS runs so cool i keep it 6" from the canopy and i have big buds at 30 days with no signs of light burn.

    I have a fan on my vegging plants and my t-5 is touching a few of them. I do need to raise it up later today but i usually keep that 1-2" away. Just goes to show how nice Flourecents are for heat. The leaves that have been touching the flourotubes look just fine. I do have a fan blowing accros the top of the canopy as well and the canopy temp is 81.

    The closer the light the better. Inverse Square law sucks when it comes to lighting.
     

  15. It does, I already have a ph meter in the mail so soon I'll get some readings....I am on ffof, and I've been hearing they run a little acidic so that could be it, but most if not all the plants run similar watering schedules, only the ones under the light seem to get the yellowing. But, wont know for sure till the meter comes.
     
  16. Yes on all accounts :)

    I have my plants at the same distance from my 150w HPS. The key, like you said, is to have air constantly going through the canopy to remove heat and get your plants that vital CO².

    I use the ol' hand test myself to see if the heat will be too much for the plants. I place my hand between the canopy and the light, palm down and wait 30 seconds. If my hand gets uncomfortably hot, the light is either too close or the airflow is insufficient.


    Good on ya for getting that PH meter. I can attest that FFOF runs acidic, especially in the later part of it's useful life. Your leaves under the light may be doing poorly because of a loss in chlorophyll due to whatever your issue is. If none is there, the plant can get burned under the lights while the ones under less intense light seem to be doing better.
     
  17. kind of makes sense, started about 1 month or two after transplant...right about when they say their nutes run out in the soil and you have to start putting your own... hmm I might have to try some new soil next time around..
     
  18. any d.i.y ways to raise my pH on the next water?
     
  19. Good ol' sodium bicarbonate aka baking soda. You don't want to use it in this form yet. Spread it out on a cookie sheet pan and bake at 400º for 3 hours. This will drive out the CO², making it sodium carbonate. This will raise your ph and alkalinity. Using just unbaked baking soda will temporarily lower ph and raise alkalinity.

    I use this method for my reef tanks and it's safe for any water.
     
  20. UPDATE*


    some of the branches on the upper canopy now show signs of redding on the top of the stem.
     

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