Fungi Tea Qs

 
 
You can apply it as many times as you desire. However, you're probably best off not applying it at all and instead focusing on proven horticulture techniques and best practices. We know the result of dead bacteria and fungi is highly acidic. (TWM). So, if you apply your tea once let once be enough. Adding more and more "tea" to your container is in all likelihood not going to produce the result you desire. Simply stated, any and all of these "teas" are best suited for use outdoors and not well suited to indoor horticulture.
 
Try it yourself to get it out of your system and the next grow try without teas and choose the method that works best for you.
 
Good growing to ya! 

 

http://microbeorganics.com/
 
This is a good site providing details on aerated compost tea (ACT) or in his words, "a microbial extrapolation."
 
Worth browsing through at least once.

 

If employing best practices for indoor horticulture the use of "teas" is absolutely NOT necessary to grow a healthy plant. Suggest you (all) consider sticking  to basic gardening before introducing "teas".
 
100% organic and flowering now for 2-3 weeks.
 

 

Just recently started to aerate 5 gallons and was going to apply a worm tea and wanted to know if it was needed to give them a food stock i didn't plan on adding any molasses for food stock because I don't wanna throw ph off, I'm gonna be adding a little dolomite lime before application because of acidic soil so i'm hoping the immediate uptake and ph buffer of the dolomite lime helps the cause.
 
--But my question being one, is there a point of using too much bagged ewc?
 
--And I was thinking of using powdered kelp as the all around food stock but I have read that the kelp actually inhibits fungal growth at first but then starts supplementing depending on duration of time spent bubbling, etc etc, if not what would be a good stock to throw in?
 
--last question being if i were to just make a worm tea with no complex carb could it still be effective in boosting microbial life or it needs some type of food to sustain life I just didn't want to add molasses in case that was what threw it off before. shitty ratios anyways. 

 

1. The goal here is to introduce diversity of life into the soil, along with establishing and maintaining those healthy fauna at desirable levels. Bagged EWC that has been sifted through for excess organic material, cocoons and then left sealed up for who knows how long doesn't tend to have as diverse a microbial population as fresh vermicompost.
 
2. I'd try to find some raw material to work with or perhaps some fish + kelp hydrosylate from Neptunes Harvest. The raw material is pretty easy and fairly cheap to source online if you cannot do so locally. Let me know if you need a link to where I got mine. (50 lb bag for $76, including shipping, for me)
 
3.  If people were made to have 8 children a year without increasing the food being produced...what would happen? 

 

I'm using epsoma as my kelp meal
 
But can i add diluted and warmed epsom salt into the AACT for cal/mg?
 
Have garden lime that is pulverized dolomite limestone but just a little scared to use it till i get some feed back on my other thread about the Austinville Limestone's viability. and if it is good 1/2 cup you think?

 

I have a small bag of espoma kelp somewhere around here. It's decent, though I like the mix I got online more.
 
I follow Tim Wilson's recipe, as far as an ACT is concerned. I brew in a 5 gallon bucket with a 65 LPM air pump (ecoplus 3 I think). I also only brew about 4 gallons at a time so it doesn't get blown through the air hole in the lid.
 
Roughly 1.5 cups of vermicompost and 1/3 cup agave nectar or unsulphered black strap molasses, I might toss in a small handful of alfalfa meal as well.
 
I also wouldn't start adding random ingredients into an ACT until I had a microscope to see what they do to the life I'm trying to breed.

 

 
Thank you Mr. Chunk. I posted a picture of the result in the Organic Lounge.
 
The original poster's question was perhaps never fully addressed. The short answer might be constructed as such; you are not going to breed fungi in a bucket of water. If you want a high concentration fungal source find a forest or stand of trees that hasn't been disturbed in a while, take two spades full per five gallon size container and work that into your mix ratio after screening to remove large debris and litter. This method will ensure that you have introduced not only high counts of fung but also good amounts of bacteria, nematodes, protazoa and perhaps a few other classes of animals. Keep in mind that the majority of soil fungi often take many weeks and months to construct their hyphae threads. During this time most fungi are feeding on bacteria. If there is not enough of a food source; lignin, cellulose, bacteria, it is not a good environment for most fungi species (mycos withstanding).
 
If one wants to pursue brewing the "perfect tea" remember that bacteria consume nitrogen and carbon. That's it. Fungi, depending on species, consume high carbon food sources preferably, bacteria, and other organic material. Adding molasses, sugars, kelp, blood and bone meals and all other seemingly "good food sources" are not helping achieve the end result.
 
Here is a koan: If there are an estimated 1 billion bacteria in a teaspoon of "good soil", how many bacteria does one need in a five gallon container of good soil to grow a healthy plant? Solve this and you won't need teas ever again.