Fulvic Acid??

FunkyTrainRider · Feb 15, 2008

Is anyone familiar with this stuff called Fulvic Acid? I ordered bat guano from a hydroponics website and they messed up my order and it took twice as long so they sent me a free quart of this stuff and I don't know if i should use it or not... Here's its description:

"Fulvic Acid is an organic, highly bioactive lightweight molecular chain that results from decomposition of organic matter in the soil. Fulvic acid is mostly associated with the transport of nutrients in the plant. In essence, it allows the plant to absorb more readily nutrients already available to it. Fulvic can be used on seed beds to decrease germination time, it can be used as a foliar spray on vegetating plants, and it can be applied with watering/feeding for great results! 2-4ml per liter, or 1 cup to 20 gal. "

hashaman · Feb 15, 2008

From here:

That's the stuff smurf. Put that in your grow you'll be amazed.

Silver Surfer - The small 1 inch stones (whitechip) used for landscaping. A handful of these, i'll go over this again as the results are incredible, bean leaves twice the size, nasturtium cropping every couple of days, peppers from last year regrouping, and the weed, oh, seedling that's now 18 inches height with 16 sub branches... and the munted seedling that never grew, just grew!

I'm considering a mineral tea thread but have been neglecting companions and aqua for a while so time will tell if I do. Life has been very full lately, very enjoyable though I do miss the research at times.

OK, the theory behind this. I was looking into humis and discovered other stuff on the way.

Carbolic acid reacts with phosphate creating Adenosine Tri Phosphate.

ATP is the energy source for many things. Photosynthesis, cell division, etc... Think of your growroom as a building site, all the bacteria lights nutes enzymes etc are the workers with power tools, and ATP is the mains power supply.

Note: I'm off to get ripped so bear with me, I want you guys to share this info and understand (though my understanding is limited) why I've pursued this direction, so you too may benefit from what I believe is a turbo charge to your grow. I need to get stoned as I was stoned during all the research however my notes may get disjointed. Anyone want to question, debate, add to, take from, please do, I love the discussions we have here.

Ahhhh, back. That weeds killer, only took 4th in local cup but it was crash-dried on a light for that...

I guess I'll go back over what I did and why.

I heard that humus is the magic soil ingredient that organic gardeners want. I heard you cannot make this. The word cannot, or even abbreviated as can't, has never sat well with me...

So, I found out what humus is made of. Fulvic acid, humic acid, and humins.

Next I had to find these 3 parts, and try to coax them together. I don't know that I've done this at all, but the results are certainly pleasing.

Sources of fulvic acid and humic acid were easy. Grow shops. I didn't bother to buy the humic acid however, as my aquarium water (well established planted aquarium or aquaponic system) has plenty of humic acid, and I suspect fulvic acid but have yet to confirm this. So I bought some fulvic acid to be sure. I think it is important we the collective find a natural source of fulvic acid as well.

Humins are found in peat (no additives peat!), and are not soluble. Of course, peat is barely soluble itself and so growers have devised a teabag and bubbler method for seeping peat, in my basic understanding, to utilise the pH down attributes it has.

The peat, aquarium water (humic acid), and fulvic acid are my building blocks.

Add to this

Molasses, benificial bacteria and root matter (m & s fungi). I had bacteria in the fish water. The molasses is to feed the bacteria and add micro nutrients but more importantly in this instance, it is to help chelate the peat. The root matter is to add fungal spores. The bacteria and fungi are not really part of the equation here, but I'll try to get it all in one tea, if I can, to save time and simplify the operation.

Chelate the peat? See smurfs photo's above.

As humins are not able to be dissolved (in an alkaline solution) I start the process of seperation using a chelate - molasses. I want to dissolve all the black tannins etc in the tea leaving only the fine humins after. The pH is acidic from the peat, the water is very black but clean and healthy smelling, we want this to be alkaline to clarify the tea, but not yet.

The other half of the equation, phosphate, is not added till the peat has had time to steep. 2 days seems adequate.

At 2 days everything is clean and sweet smelling so I know the bacterial portion is still alive and well (if they die your nose will know). I then add a handful of whitechip/limestone so it covers the bubbler stone.

Another 2 days brewing with the whitechip (4 days total) and everything goes clear. The whitechip has actually been cracked by the acids in the tea and you'll find bits of sand/grit from it.

Surprisingly, the tea did not need to reach alkaline pH to clarify. A pH of 6.7-6.8 is reached and it clarifies.

For soil I'd get all the mixture (removing whitechip) shake it up, and water it in.

For my Aqua I siphoned off the clear stuff and added it to the system, and got the silt and put it in a bed. The system went cloudy, clear the next day.

The addition of your favourite nute brew to this set-up should be fine. Go very light on nitrogen, the phosphate provides plenty.

To simplify the addition of this to a tea regime I'd brew tea as per the usual recipe, including peat in a teabag, fulvic and humic acids, then do the additional 2 days with whitechip.

It caused a massive growth spurt lasting 3-4 days and everything's still growing better over a fortnight later. I'd say the regular watering in, weekly perhaps, of this type of tea could see many organic growers increase their yield considerably.

Now, sourcing the fulvic acid. Cheap!

The rest costs next to nothing if sourced correctly. One bag of whitechip is a lifetime supply. A handful taken off someone's garden (then bleached clean) would never be missed and last a fair while. Molasses is cattle fodder. Aquarium water can be obtained from... aquariums. root mass is dug out of ground.

Oh yes, my proportions.

5 gallons aquarium water
100 mls fulvic acid
2 gallons peat
tablespoon molasses
handful whitechip.

Other additives are additives, as you wish.

I also think a permanent tea, that you just add to, would simplify things further, but it has risks with aging, so am not pursuing that further at present.
Click to expand...

Forums

Fulvic Acid??

FunkyTrainRider Cannabis Enthusiast

hashaman Cannastudent

Share This Page

Network

Forums

Help

Find Us On

Useful Searches

Fulvic Acid??

FunkyTrainRider Cannabis Enthusiast

hashaman Cannastudent

Share This Page