From Veg to Flower - to Flush or just Res change?

I've used reservoirs that gave each plant 7 gallons of fluid, and found that flushing was completely unnecessary when using clorox (2 drops per gallon per day).
I've done several grows without ever flushing, even once.
But my autos were getting to big, so I switched to reservoirs that give each plant only about 2 gallons.
With the smaller volumes, I do flush about once every two weeks because it's easier for the reservoirs to get out of whack.

I use the same 1-part, solid fertilizer from seed to harvest.
There is little real difference between veg and bloom nutes, so you can just start using bloom nutes without flushing if you want.

 

so what type of medium are they planted in .?
how are they fed ?
when a plant goes into flower it's nutrient requirements dont change immediately. they will change gradually over about 4 weeks.
the first couple weeks plant continue to use pure veg .
4he second couple weeks use half veg and half bloom .I make a 50/50 solution mixing them together . the a and a and 4h4 b and b
at 4h3 4th week I go pure bloom for 4 weeks then I go the last 2 weeks pure water leach .
based on a 10 week flower.
it puts them nutrient in line with the plants need.

 

so I am ingersted in the one part solution just form a curiosity point of view. do you add anything at all ? any supplements like cal mag ?
the reason I am asking as I have made my own nutrients for 30 years. I know you can not mix concentrated calcium with phosphorus. it will combine to form water insoluble calcium phosphate removing both nutrients from the solution ( as well as gumming up lines) so that is why it is 2 part to separate the calcium nitrate from the mono potassium phosphate or whatever P source that is used .
every one part I have seen has no calcium and cal mag is needed thus making it not a true one part.

 

I'm using Greenleaf Megacrop 1.0 in hydro with about 10% of the ppm from a CalMag supplement.

 

ah yes. so it is not a one part solution. it is a 2 part solution.

 

clay pebbles build up salt just like any other material. they are porous and can and do absorb salt.

 

ok so I read up on that. I am not a fan of this company. if they do not list their nutrient level then that Is an issue . any reputable agricultural company lists them as it is a standard thing. no secret. weed is not special. i would recommend a standard complete 2 part or ( not neccessary) 3 part solution.
the only reason they put them in 2 parts is to keep the calcium( why you use calmag) away from the phosphates as they will bond and form water insoluble calcium phosphate , a white precipitate.
running a one part is not ideal for a water based hydroponic solution. .
I personally make my own but a commercial product I like is master blend .they do not have bloom formula out yet but there are others and one is easy to manipulate. it is very reasonable price and most important actually list nutrients ( as is standard in any non fraudulent product not meant to take down to marijuana growers) MasterBlend 4-18-38 Tomato & Vegetable Fertilizer - BULK

 

this company has 4h4 most reasonable priced products I have seen. they actually sell the individual nutrients bulk calcium nitrate, mono potassium sulphate magnesium sulphate ( epson salts . ) i posted an excellent formula I make myself in one of the forums .
master blend is as close as I can see without buying and mixing .
the only difference between a bloom and a vegative formula is the POTASSIUM TO NITROGEN RATIO which is 1.5 to 1 K TO N
a veg solution is generally 1 to 1 .
my formula I use is 300 ppm N to 300 ppm K for veg
AMD 156 ppm N to 300 ppm K for bloom
there is a misconception that bloom is a lot more phosphorus but thst is wrong. P needs to be increases by about 20% but that's it .
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