Would you consider using both for diversity? And why do you prefer basalt over glacial rock dust if you don’t mind me asking
Technically speaking glacial rock dust is just rock mined around a glacier. There is no strict idea of what it will be composed of... basalt is basalt.. There is a more eloquent way of putting that but that is the layman's version.. But all for bio diversity as far as that goes so not against the notion and mixing it. And the reason I and others will steer towards recipes that are known is both of course it is proven but also having the knowledge of the exact starting point makes it a lot easier for others to try and pinpoint issues were they to arise in the grow...
I question the "glacial" part personally, unless you're @Organic sinse, I don't know that you truly come accross glacial rock dust. If you do, you will have some basalt dust with that granite dust, and a host of other dusts. You can make this soil as complicated and expensive as you want, I really don't think it's necessary now, but I was in your shoes not that long ago, so I get it.
My take on rock dust for the op is to use whichever one(s) you can get without paying a fortune for. Especially if shipping is involved. I am a big fan of mixing rock dust for diversity, but if you are buying everything upfront at once, you will be fine with just one. I personally use glacier rock dust with some greensand added in. I would just trim down the amendments to kelp, crab, and neem seed meals- just like the no till recipe (beginning posts of Notill Revisited Thread. Then add lime or oyster shell flower for a liming agent. I also like too add fishbone meal at the same amount as the other meals. You don’t need all that other stuff you listed. You can add it later after ya get a grow under your belt. It’s best to leave yourself fewer things to second guess. Trust me. Cheers Os
Yes there are a lot of recpies online so it can get confusing, and also makes us want to add EVERYTHING, lol! I know ive been down that road. The way I see it, it's like a cooking recipe. Say you are making a cake, you follow the recipe. If you change the recipe you might get a different cake, you might like it, but it could also completely ruin the cake. So unless you know what you are doing, or have time and space to experiment, its best to follow a recipe to a T, at least the first time. Many growers on these forums use the no-till recipe with great success so that's why we recommend it. Its tried and true and very simple to get right.
I actually did expand and screen both Premier and Lambert 3cf bales one time, at the same time when feeling frisky and had empty storage. Here are the results: Lambert 3cf bale, expanded and screened. 35 gallons total, ~4.6cf. Premier 3cf bale, expanded and screened. 32 gallons total, ~4.2cf No where near 6cf, they certainly don't double in size, more like 1 1/2. The Lambert, when expanded, gave 3 gallons more than the Premier and seemed to be cleaner also. I'll use either, but Lambert is my prefered choice if both are available. The Lambert is a bit harder to find in my area, but everyone seems to have the Premier. Price was nearly identical. HTH Wet
1cf=7.5 gallons. *I* use 3-5gallon buckets that =2cf for my rough basic mix measurements, but the final measurements are pretty much eyeball and feel. Wet
OP this is sound advice. I’m new to soil as well, and coming from the more traditional add-nutrient grows it’s hard to move away from the mentality of more=better. My current grow is a “super soil” mix with all the amendments I could find. It’s a train wreck and my next grow is gonna be using the coots/mofo mix nearly to a t. Long story short, don’t make my mistake or you’ll be pissed at yourself for wasting time and $$! Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Thanks for your input I appreciate all of the info. I saw a member post that earlier in the thread and was going to go that route! Very simple
It’s been about 10 years since I have grown but when I did it was with bottles and I don’t want to do that again. Thanks for the advice I’ll take heed of it for sure. Looks like I should have gotten more involved with the forum before buying all the amendments ahaha. Good thing it wasn’t to late. Thank you everyone for the input and responses I really appreciate it
Honestly depends on the companies too. Many are in it for nutrient marketing scams. A legit bottle nutrient company should have very little residual salts accurate feeding chart, and ph adjusted nutrients. Humboldt county's own is one of those companies but a little pricey.
So let me get this straight guys following mofo no till. It’s tried and proved and has less ingredients so it’s not as complicated. Hmmmmm and you don’t have to wait for it to cook? Just plant right in it? It might be worth a try
That was my interpretation as well but an earlier post stated that using mofo no til mix that no cooking was needed
this is a to the recipe no till bed that i added 1/2 cup alfalfa per sq ft.. My first run no till but im a convert for sure. With the added alfalfa i did let mine cook 3 weeks then let the cover crop have a week to get going before i added the girls..