First time growing: Something went bad!

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by j_dizzy474, Mar 15, 2016.

  1. Hey everyone this is my first time growing I invested a quite a bit in my equipment. I am running these specs:
    Virtual sun 600w
    2 can fans inline 240w
    Fox farm ocean forest
    Fox farm nutrient trio
    Ph testers and ph up and down

    my plants have yellow spots aka rust spots on them and they are drooping. I transplanted 2 weeks ago and i feel the soil they were transfered in have a different ph with the soil the new 5 gallon pot had in it.

    everytime i take ph level it changes so i cant ever help fix the matter.
    what should i do to fix this problem.
     
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  3. Always post pictures of your plants when you have a problem...some close ups and the whole plant. 99% of the time when you develop nutritional deficiencies in these plants, it's because of improper pH levels at the roots. The pH kits with the drops can work, but you have to be DARN sure that you're actually getting it into he right range. The proper range for soil is 6.3 to 6.7...which is only 5 points on a very large wide scale. The drop kits were hard for me to use and I never was sure about what I was getting so I eventually broke down and spent the money to buy a pH tester....a cheap one the first time....BIG MISTAKE!! LOL The cheap pH testers are just as good as the really cheap grow lights out there and should be avoided at all costs. I should've heard alarm bells when I read that the thing (which was only $15 mind you) wasn't waterproof. LOL What good quality tester of water would not be waterproof? About a month down the road, I realized that the thing hadn't been giving me correct readings since I took it out of the box so I tossed it and bought a real one....BlueLab...around $79. Once I did that, all those weird problems I had been having on my leaves disappeared and the plants got back to being that dark blue/green lush color that they should be. I know that $80 is a lot of money to spend on one little piece of equipment, but considering the massive importance of pH range to the health of your plants, it's a worthwhile investment in my mind. Since incorrect pH levels will lock up the roots of your plant and the plant then can't take in nutrition, it's a pretty darn important piece of the puzzle. Get your pH right for all liquids going into your plants, use good watering habits and technique (in other words, don't water your plants until they've had a chance to dry out to the point where they feel like they did when you first loaded them with dry soil) and use good soil (the FFOF is just fine), and you should make it through veg just fine.

    You might want to do some reading in the "new grower" threads on the forum. There are quite a few posts there dedicated to new growers and contain the basic information that we all needed to know before we started...but probably didn't'. LOL Good luck. The more you grow, the more you know and the easier it gets.

    TWW
     
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  4. LOL....now your pics come up. If you've only got a 600 watt light for flowering, you're going to be short on light to flower that many plants at once. We flower with 1000 watt hps and I generally flower about 5 at a time under each light. I could go six, but that's about it. The size of your buds is directly proportional to the amount of light your plants are getting and it's VERY important to give them plenty of space so the light can penetrate as far down into the canopy as possible. They are going to double or triple in size once you put them into flowering mode, so you're going to have some pretty bad shading with all these plants under one light. It may just be the strain, but they look a little droopy. Are you letting them dry out sufficiently between watering....like to the point of nearly dead dry. These plants need a defined wet/dry cycle as they grow and do not like to have their roots sitting around in constant moisture.

    TWW
     
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  5. One more thing and I'll leave you alone. You can have the most awesome grow equipment in the world, but if you don't understand "HOW" to grow, it's not going to do you any good. Now take the time to read up on how to do this the right way and you should be set. TWW
     
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  6. Damn that setup looks awesome to me but Ive not enough time up to be a good judge
     
  7. I did 5 under a 600 and did well but i'd rearrange them like the dots on a 5 sided die so one's right in the middle they grow out too not just up so having one fill the gap in the middle will help even it out so ones not off on the side. I did feel like the plant in the middle didn't live up to it's full potential only producing 70g that one. the other four all produced more though, up to 93g. feed them water that is between 6.5 and 7, start with 1/2 doses of ff trio and work up to full if they look like they need it. To me they do look like they need more food but maybe less water. I have trouble telling wilt from dry/wet apart in pics. temp should stay between 73 and 80 when the lights on hum they say is important but really seems not so important unless it's high in flowering. If you don't have any get a couple of fans blowing on those plants, one shoud blow across the surface of the soil to help them dry out and the other shoul be in the opposite side making a nice vortex of air for em. pay attention when you feed, do they look better with more or less food? In the end you gotta make that call all we can do is make suggestions. if your worried about messed up soil or ph you can always flush, helps if you have a ppm meter but three - four times the water you water with will usually drop my ppm's to about 150 witch is where i like it after a flush. I have the same problems with soil, that's why i switched to dwc. I'm doing my last fours plants in dirt right now.
     
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  8. Here's the deal. Yellowing from the tips and edges in is serious. It denotes a nitrogen deficiency. This is especially bad because ocean forest is loaded with it. There are a few possibilities:
    Over watering - This causes root fungus which eats your roots and causes nute lockout. It can kill a grow.
    PH imbalance - This also causes lockout as the pH has to be in a certain range for nutrients to be absorbed/processed/activated.

    Widow is right, especially on one account. I read no less than 20 walkthroughs before starting my first grow. I printed up pH charts and nute deficiency graphics til I ran out of ink. I researched everything that could possibly go wrong so that I'd know it when I saw it. If you haven't done these things, you should. That being said:
    1. The pH thing has to be nailed down. I gave up on meters and I use strips now. My soil was at 7 (tap water too) and I put 6.3/6.4 water into it until the runoff hit 6.5. Took a few weeks.
    2. If you're using hot soil never add nutes until at least week 3/4.
    3. I pretreat for/against fungus as a precaution after a bad incident. Use something like hydroguard or similar with a bacteria that eats root fungus. It is a blessing for beginners and opens that damn watering curve a bit. Don't be afraid to get a soil moisture meter. I don't water my ladies until it reads at 3. Then I can be sure they're thirsty but not starving.
    Hope that helps.

    Be kind. Perfect your craft. Give more than you take. We are family.
    I
     
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  9. Thanks everyone for your feedback. I am now going to attempt my very first flush on 5 plants but will probably only be able to do 1 a day because I heard i need to run 20 gallons of ph'd water I am using 5 GALLON POTS FOR SOIL ( i use tap water so i wanna gonna let it sit out for 24 hours) to perform a proper flush. Is this true? Or could i use the tap water right when i get it out of the faucet to be able to do more than 1 plant.

    Please someone explain the best flushing method especially for my situation where my ph is completely off and plants leaves starting to show many nutrient deficiencies so i can bring this grow back to its full potential. Thanks guys

    Time for the bong rip....
     
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  10. First get a tds meter if you can. Flush it with properly ph'd water until the ppm's are down to about 150 or so and that's it, just pour the water in it and let it run through. Takes me about 4 times the amount i water with not 20 gallons per 5 gallon pot. Otherwise i'd say just run 4 times what you water with to get a 20% runoff through it with 6.5 ph water and you should be ok. Follow the flush with a feeding because the soil will be barren of nutes after the flush.
     
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  11. Anyone know a good flushing technique with 5 gallon pots with tap water i was gonna use? I was gonna store 5 gal buckets of tap water overnight to let the chlorine evaporate but is that even necessary when it comes to flushing 5gallon pots with 20 gallons of water? Should i ph the water after 10 gal?
     
  12. #12 j_dizzy474, Mar 16, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2016
    YOur comment didnt load sorry but is it okay if i use tap water to do all this with 5 plants

    What type of ph and tds meters do you use? I feel my china ph meters are junk.
     
  13. My first run i just used liquid ph test drops and it worked fine, this time i'm using a cheap 20 dollar ph pen from amazon and it's working fine. Cheap tds tester from amazon. they all work, the only ph thing i got that didn't work was a probe that went into soil that one didn't do shit. if you have good tap water that comes out at 7 like here you can get away with just using tap water for everything.
     
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