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First Grow - Using Clones - Need Advice

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by BakedApple, Nov 6, 2020.

  1. Hi everyone. This is my second attempt at growing weed, the first attempt was about 3 weeks ago and i failed miserably with those clones.

    So here I am to jot down my list to make sure I don't stress them again and kill them, because If i do i'm for sure giving up! Too damn costly to keep killing them.

    I haven't picked up clones yet, but below are pictures of the last batch. You can see 1 photo is of one when it was freshly repotted, and then the other is when they started getting sick. I made multiple mistakes.



    This go I plan on doing the following

    Soil: Michigan Made Mix (M3) with a top 1/3 of Happy Frog so that I don't burn them
    Pot: 3 gal dirt pot
    Water: PH Pur Filtered to 6.3~
    Light: 250watt until adjusted, ballast raised to top of tent.
    airflow: fan will be blowing but not directly on them - at least at first
    Temp - about 65 with lights off, 75 with lights on
    Humidity: I will try my best to stay around 60 until they having taken hold in pots

    ---

    When i get these clones, my plan is to just put them in the tent but keep them in their little transfer containers for about a week ensuring the rockwool is given adequate moisture every 2-3 days.

    After about a week I'll check on them and see if they are ready to go into 3gal pots.


    Does anyone see any issues with my plan?

    Last go, I watered with 8.0 PH first water, had my 600w beating on them, and transferred straight into the M3 (not realizing it was harmful to them as it was). I really don't want to kill this batch. I tried my hardest to revive the last attempt but they finally gave up about 3 days ago and i was tired of spending electricity on a lost cause.
     
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  2. are they in rockwool when you get them?
     
  3. The only time I was successful with clones I kept a translucent dome on top of them and kept the dome moist inside and I maintained about 70% relative humidity in the grow space. I don't think you need more than 35 watts per square foot Max for clones until they establish roots, less light perhaps. remember they have to take moisture in through the leaves since they don't have roots and that's the reason for keeping the dome on and keep the dome moist and keep the relative humidity up. It took almost 3 weeks for me to start to see roots.

    hopefully one of the guys that clones a lot will step in and advise you to use a little cloning gel or some enzymes. I am scared to death of rockwool for me it always held too much moisture and caused problems.
     
  4. Hey Jkill, in the second pic do you see those small little plastic pots that are in the dirt pot? I say pots plural but theres just 1, its gray.

    The clones come in those, they are rooted in rockwool, but then the vendor puts dirt around the rockwool. Last time i got them they were soaked.
     
  5. Hey growmoremeds, yep these girls come with some roots. At least the last ones did. They just never spread from the original rockwool ball. I think its because i stressed them the hell out. Unfortunately they never rebounded =/
     
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  6. I would never take a clone that big,

    but.

    A clone as big as the one in the pictures should be in a 6x6 rockwool cube, not one of the tiny little 1x1 things.

    how do YOU KNOW that the guy isnt just snipping clones off the plant, sticking them in rockwool and soil, and then handing them over to you with out actually rooting them?

    I would demand to see the roooted clones IN the rockwool before he sticks them in some soaking wet dirt.
     
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  7. Dude i grow in m3. Get that fox farms crap out of there. I can’t see any photos or videos you posted but I just did clones in rapid rooters. Transplanted right into m3 with little to no issue. My only issue was I think I over fed them in the rooters which lead to them being to hot in the m3. I’ve seen m3 grow roots with just clone gel. All 20 clones took. I tosses 5 parent plants. And still ended up with 7 females.

    Just make sure the clones were fed about a week prior. If they are showing roots you should be fine. I use michoriza every time I transplant. I also use mammoth p every watering. No nutes but papas poop week before flower flip and start of Second week of flower. Message me if you have any questions. My first grow was clones as well. Journal is on here.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  8. I would spray leaves a few times a day until the roots take effect in the soil.
     
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  9. well because it’s not just “some guy” it’s an actual company up here in MI. i did see the roots. they aren’t in a 6x6 tho, a 1x1.


    seth i actually have another post with my first set of clones and me coming here for advice. one of the replies said the m3 might be a little hot for them?
     
  10. companies never do wrong things or take advantage of people...

    best of luck! will follow along
     

  11. i went and fetched one of the last 2 i “buried” out of the trash so i could show you. you can eee there were established roots. they are a little brown but i think that may be stain from the dirt? they don’t feel slimy like root rot. of course these girls are dead but they looked about the same when i was investigating after i pulled them.


     
  12. ok so a lot to unpack.
    the first pics you have above is classic salt damage . the chlorosis and necrosis. ( yellowing and dead tissue) .
    realistically the clones should be in smaller pots to start .maybe 1 gallon or so. there should be more dynamics in the medium meaning air exchange . when small plants are in large buckets the soil will stay much wetter .normally not an issue but I the plants are weak and not growing that will exasperate the issue.
    now the nutrients. if you are not feeding all12 minimum required N P K Ca Mg S Fe Mn Cu B Z Mo
    then the plants will not go . if just one is missing the plant will die with organics it is hard to rely know what they are providing.
    tou can have all 4he good stuff in there but one of the 12 missing ? dead plants.
    it wound be best to start with a good inexpensive 2 or 3 part nutrient formula. master blend is good. inexpensive and complete. there is no guessing.
    input feed EC 800
    waste output EC 1200 .
    if waste hits higher then 2x the input at 1600 flush the medium until the EC is back down between 800 to 1200 .
    so this and you will never see so much as a yellow leaf or a spot until you leach .
    now the light level .what is it ? in footcandles.
    a free meter is available is available at the app store
    those size of plants need around 1500 footcandles +
    less is not good ..there is a lot of talk about PAR spectrum.
    PAR spectrum is the actual quality of light not the intensity
    footcandles is the intensity .
    fill a glass of water.the par would be the ec and ph .th4 footcandles wound be the flow volume.
    once minimul spectral requirements are met it's all about the intensity. you physically need the volume of light to make th4 plant matter
    you can not make something from nothing.
    the law of CONSERVATION of mass and energy
    get the app and do a reading.
    the ph humidity and temp are irrelevant at 4his point. they are fine
     
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  13. This John smith guy seems to know what’s up.

    I also have stabbed clones straight into m3 and they continued to grow till I sold them and my buddy overwatered them. I know I put fresh seedlings straight out of a small seed starter tray right into m3. Make sure your humidity is on the high side of things. Then the plant won’t eat so much from the soil.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  14. My humidity was quite low this last trial. Let me link the prior thread, as it had more info. The nutrient question I have no idea about, as I was under the impression that M3 would provide everything they need and it seems seth is saying the same? The leaves were showing classic signs of what i feel was nutrient burn but also deficiency, mainly calcium? It had orangish spots on the leaves.

    The first pics above are actually 2 different grow times. the first 1 is when i first put them in soil, the 2nd is a few days later - but also a different plant. The poor Wedding Punch sufferered the most at first. The durban poisons are the 2 that lasted the longest, but i pulled the plug this past week - wednesday ish.
     
  15. when you start again message me and we can walk it though together.
    you will need :
    plants in small cups of basic promix Hp( preferably)
    basic a and b fertilizer with all 12 minerals
    light meter app form app store
    we can do this
     
  16. Clones from a vendor that are already rooted and moist.

    Promix HP
    1 Gal Pot
    Fill bottom and place clone then backfill.

    Water good with whatever nutrient mix you use after you transplant.

    I recommend a 6.3 pH in your nutrient mix for Promix.

    Keep them around 78-80 degrees / 60-70% RH.

    You’ll have strong clones in a few days.


    Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
     
  17. everyone has been recommending pro mix lol, so i’m very tempted to try it. is there any particular brand of nutrient most people tend to stick with?
     
  18. I think most of us use different items for different reasons to what suits us. Researching what is needed during the stages of growth is important so you understand what to look for in nutrients. A lot of products make it easy but measure everything you do and write it down. If you’re not measuring you’re not managing.


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  19. LISTEN TO THIS MAN ! HE SPEAKS THE TRUTH !
    ( not the normal advice)
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  20. and yes use pro mix HP specifically.
    it is super porous and is just sphagnum moss ( 75 % of almost all after market soil or soiless products such as sunshine mix are sphagnum moss. ) and perlite which is just aeration and absorbs no interior water. it contains no nutrients ( it does come pre inoculated with an endo micoryzal fungi glorious intradacious. although I think it will not do shit for a fast growing short crop plant like weed .) you have complete control over the nutrients and don5 have 5o worry about added nutrients running out or over supplying when you add your own complete feed solution.you could not rely on fortified nutrients providing complete nutrition up until they all run out and you continue on.
     

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