Hey so on the 27th I switched my lights to 12/12. My plants were 4 different bagseed strains. They vegged under 400w HPS for a month to month and a half. They finished up very healthy, I have no pH up/down but with the decrease of ph from the nutes, and the 7.1 pH tap water I have managed to keep them at roughly 6.3-6.8. I have a few issues I am dealing with, lets bang em out real quick, no community has a think tank like the city. First is about temperature and humidity. Basically with my setup now the possibilities are either 81F with 30-40% humidity with the window closed to 75-78F and 20% humidity with it open. Whats the better option, very low humidity with no temperature strain or vise versa? Next is a question of nutes. I have Fox Farm Grow Big and Big Bloom with no Tiger Bloom. Would there be any possibility of using the two I have in some way to fill the needs of the plant during flowering? Last is a question about defoilating (removing the sun leaves to let more light through to lower bud sites). I officiallly have chopped the hell outta my three smaller plants, I cut off virtually every sun leaf because of my tight quarters to allow light penetration. Will physically altering a plant in this way, when having not at all for the whole vegitative state cause any adverse side effects?
hey man, ill try to get the ball rolling for ya. now im no expert here but i do know that you probably should not defoliate. your plants use these leaves as stored energy and you rob your girls by cutting leaves. most say that u should not cut, but tie back leaves so they give your lower budsites more light if necessary. they say cutting will take away from your yeild, something most would rather not do. but like i said this is just from the majority i have read here, others might say different. as for the humidity and nutes i will let smarter blades chime in for that. hope i could help somewhat. do u have a journal here?
How do you intake more air into your environment? I got 2 C.A.P. Day/Night Temperature Control - TMP-DNe One for an exhaust fan, presumably out the window in your case. (I'd set up some baffle? <may be the wrong word> the spring loaded kind.) That way, the temp always builds to where you want it. Then exhausts, the displacment in my case, or another intake fan <running off the exhaust fan's controler> then brings in fresh air. In my case I need a heater when the light is not on so I have another controler running a heater at my low temp point. Humidity I don't quite have tackled yet. But I've been ok around 40% if I don't open the room too much. But, the current plan is to have a similar humidity controller running a humidifier in the room that my grow room pulls fresh air in from. I would imagine the solution depends primarily on what space you are working with. My space is pretty small, which is why I'm planning on "treating" the room I draw fresh air from. (if I drew in outside air I'd have potcicles now and a sauna in the summer.) So, keeping the inside space it draws fresh air from is easier in my case. An in room humidifer would certainly be an option if the space is big enough. I'd bet you're signing up for mold problems if its not. just my 2 cents on how I'm planning to deal with it. In my situation. <this assumes you either have no air-in or just window for both in/out> My concern is that from the sounds of it, outside is already as hot as you want it. (omg I wish it was that warm outside!) If your ambient temp is already your target temp, and you have a lights,pumps, ballasts, etc. generating BTU's, your going to be exhausting contantly. which will be also exhausting that humidity you probably just spent something on to produce. If so I would imagine an AC may be required(which will make things even dryer) at some point. plan for it now. Oh, and for my product endorsment. I've been very happy with these CAP controllers. built like a brick. built for 1 task. keep it simple stupid. I don't know, a low tech, pain in the ass way, for a small space, maybe a couple of large sponges. (Like the big yellow ones in the tile isle at home depot) soak them, stick them close to your fans, they should evaporate and contribute some humidity. Oh yeah, exhaust, window, that may not work at all. Not sure if it'll be enough or even practicle. but it won't be expensive. hope this helps. -MM-
keep the higher humidity if its going no higher then 81. anything below 30% is not healthy , ideal is 50 to 60% humidity It would be best to get some tiger bloom, it has an extra kick of p and k which you need alot of in late flower. If you can it would be good if you want to add weight and density to get there three pack of granulers.They will grow with what you have but not to there full potential. lots of ideas on defolation like you did. I will put up a link to a thread that is pro defolation and kicks butt. If you do this starting in veg you will get numerous more branches, which means more buds. When doing this in VEG about three times you will create a massivly bushy plant with like 10 tops. I myself do this but dont advertize it because alls i get is hassled for it. I had same plants i was not touching and doubled my yeild when I defoliated. decide for yourself. Big thing is to do in veg to create this bush then the last one needs to be at least a week before you flower and DONT touch for the first 3 weeks of flower while it stretches. Defoliation: Hi-Yield Technique? - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums
Thanks, I left one plant non-chopped and am goona use it as a psudo control over the others. I am interested in seeing the difference. I don't have an updated journal, slim internet access at the moment is the cause. =/
Thanks alot guys. Exhausting out of the window is an option. Thing is I will need almost 25 feet and like 180 degrees of bends in the duct run across the room. Will a 425 cfm 6" inline move enough air that far and fast enough?