Father's day project... New porch light.

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Tbone Shuffle, Jun 17, 2019.

  1. I have one of those crappy old power wasting HPS porch lights in the front of the house. I'm pretty sure the ballast is dead because bulb changes did nothing.

    I have a few spare qb120 boards laying around in 3k and a meanwell LRS-75-24 power supply. I took the guts out of it and since the housing was a cone shape I was able to jam the power supply into it from the bottom. It's stuck in there pretty good.

    It's easily twice as bright as the 150 watt hps it replaced. I rent here but that face board on the front eve needs replacing I know. IMG_1199.JPG IMG_1200.JPG
     
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  2. Well that's definitely a first.
     
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  3. My first thought was will they stand up to the weather, but I guess so I sometimes have 80% RH and a fifteen knot wind blowing on mine indoors.

    Also I'm going to sneak a question in.
    I've been thinking of some side lighting
    for my 2×3 closet I'm trying to make the most out of my small space. I have 8' of vertical height. I was thinking qb 132s but I tend to jam the place up . Would they be cool enough to run inches away and still be effective? Is this even an idea worth exploring? Or should I just leave it alone?
     
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  4. My first thought was will they stand up to the weather, but I guess so I sometimes have 80% RH and a fifteen knot wind blowing on mine indoors.

    Also I'm going to sneak a question in.
    I've been thinking of some side lighting
    for my 2×3 closet I'm trying to make the most out of my small space. I have 8' of vertical height. I was thinking qb 132s but I tend to jam the place up . Would they be cool enough to run inches away and still be effective? Is this even an idea worth exploring? Or should I just leave it alone?
     
  5. My first thought was will they stand up to the weather, but I guess so I sometimes have 80% RH and a fifteen knot wind blowing on mine indoors.

    Also I'm going to sneak a question in.
    I've been thinking of some side lighting
    for my 2×3 closet I'm trying to make the most out of my small space. I have 8' of vertical height. I was thinking qb 132s but I tend to jam the place up . Would they be cool enough to run inches away and still be effective? Is this even an idea worth exploring? Or should I just leave it alone?
     
  6. I would go with strips for side lighting instead of boards. You could run them very low power but the strip method would be cheaper and more effective I think.
    https://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/
     
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  7. I put a large dab of silicon over both connectors after I got them wired up.
     
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  8. You can get spray conformal coating
     
  9. Never heard of that, could this spray be used to spray an entire (front side) of a quantum board to make it water resistant to spray and splashes without hurting the light output?
     
  10. It's an aluminum board so it won't rust. It's tucked under the eve. I think it will be fine.

    It's so bright it's almost offensive out there. If it was more bright my neighbors might get mad. I may go up there and dim it a little. Looks like a baseball stadium light. Not kidding.
     
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  11. Or you could put a strobe on it :laughing:
     
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  12. That spray shit will yellow and crack....
    The good shit that won't is like $500 a gallon.

    Maybe you found a quality product but I have not.

    If it were me, I would just build a neat wooden box to "house" the light. If I was to take the next step, a nice thin sheet of plexiglass for a cover would assure me of weatherproofing.

    I have had QB in 100% humidity, with condensation on the walls. That is as far as I have gone in terms of exposure to water.
     
  13. I'll tell you guys what you want to use since it's part of my trade. I tried it on my boat seats and it works like magic.

    This is just one brand but an exterior tile/stone/grout sealer with a heavy duty solvent base will seal that board up for years.
    STONETECH® Heavy Duty Exterior Sealer
    [​IMG]

    I'm not going to. Aluminum doesn't rust and it's a porch light. If the light degrades 5-10% in 5 years people will be happy because it's a little too bright right now.

    It says stone and grout but really it works on anything solid and porous. The higher quality ones last for years. Don't run the water based stuff in a shower or outside. It's not as heavy duty. Solvent based for the best sealing.
     
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  14. Literally no response to that
     
  15. Thats interesting!

    The aluminum shouldn't electrolysis as long as it is isolated; like screwed to dry wood as I imagine it is in this case

     
  16. So are you saying one could paint a quantum board with this stuff to water seal it without harming the boards functionality? Any reason not to use this on all my boards used for growing?
     
  17. Never used it on a light but I have used it on other stuff and it causes the water to bead right off of whatever you treat it with like the wax on a car.

    Usually it's a silicon type compound carried by the solvent.
     
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  18. Phosphor on LED is porous. The dies are very chemically sensitive. Samsung just released some more chemically resistant LM301B LEDs called LM301H but they aren't out in any products yet as far as I know. They are more resistant not completely resistant.

    Review Samsung's brochure on chemical compatibility. It will show you that even common day things can cause issues https://cdn.samsung.com/led/file/resource/2017/11/Case_Study_Discoloration_Rev.1.0.pdf

    Company to company things are different but with silver based dies they are more the same.

    Here is Cree's compatibility guide for silicones and coatings. I didn't see the tile sealant on the list : ) https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/XLamp_Chemical_Comp.pdf

    But for argument sakes lets say it works without harming it you want to double check the coefficient of expansion. Silicone based coatings over acrylic coatings are usually best. What can happen is if you have temperature fluctuations you can literally have components sheer off the board if coating and and board don't move at similar rates. My circuit board assembler we use here at work had a customer that had this happen to an outdoor product.

    I see some people flood boards leaving the die exposed and everything else sealed. It's better than nothing. Could still have some thermal expansion/contraction issues but it'd be more forgiving. What the pros do is match their material to the circuit board type because MCPCB and FR4 change at different rates.
     
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  19. I dont think anybody is talking the face of the board with the soldermask; just the back with the aluminum.
     
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