extreme gardening mykos

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by mclover, Dec 12, 2015.

  1. #1 mclover, Dec 12, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 12, 2015
    Anyone use it? I'm looking for something to reduce transplant shock and help build roots fast. I have to veg in cups and when I transplant into my no tills, the plants dont have much time before flip. Getting faster root growth and reducing transplant shock is a good way to utilize that time. I'll be using SSTs, agsil, full power and kelp/neem/alfalfa teas if that helps.

     
  2. i dont think mycorrhiza fungi will do anything for transplant shock or root growth rates. its good to have mycos in your soil for sure but for faster root growth i would use kelp and aloe vera.
    as for TP shock, just be gentle ;)
     
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  3. Does aloe promote faster root growth? I have a small aloe plant for rooting cuttings. I kind of miss using aloe. My plants leaves were shinier and looked healthier to the eye for sure, especially after a foliar. I just dont like having all these items in my arsenal, so now I'm not going to get the mykos anymore. Probably order some 200x aloe powder. I like simple but dont want to sacrifice anything in the process. Last round when I TP'd [​IMG] the girls, it took a good week before I saw any new growth. Thats with a compost tea drench also. I'm still a newb at this.


     
  4. IIRC aloe has rooting hormons, and kelp promotes rapid cell division. having said that. a week for new growth to apear after TP is normal IME. think of it this way, when you tp the plant first takes advantage of the new soil space and starts working on making more roots. once it establishes a certain amount of root growth it will then start to grow its upper part. but roots always come first. its normal.


    i would get both, mycos is very good since it creates a symbiotic relationships with the roots and helps them tremendously in nutrient uptake. u dont mix it with the soil since it needs direct contact with the roots, so just a little sprinkle on the roots when you tp is all you need.
     
  5. I was thinking that maybe it was my soil not having enough life to help the transition go more smoothly. In hydro they were much faster. Some of the things I learned from my hydro days are still sticking to me and its coming back to haunt me. Help me out here, I just started brewing a kelp/alfalfa tea right now for my 12 day flowering plants. I went light on it since I'm unsure. I'm still having trouble grasping the idea of the NPK thing in organics. The way I'm looking at it is, NPK ratios don't really matter, just as long as the nutrient is in the soil? If I have too much of one or more nutrient, it will either burn my plants, create a lockout, get flushed out the soil or linger there until my plant uses it?
     
  6. #6 Sc00byD00bie, Dec 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 13, 2015
    yeah you will need to forget everything you know from your hydro day [​IMG]


    The biggest difference in a nutshell is this:
    in hydro we supply the plants with readily available nutrients, they are already in form the plant can and will absorb immediately. like a baby opening its mouth to every spoon that comes close to its mouth. thats why we need to be very precise with what we feed because everything we put in is going to get absorbed by the plant. put too much and the plant will burn.


    in organics we supply elements in the soil, all the nutrients are not readily available and there is nothing for the plant to absorb. the plant then needs to work with the soil life in order to get its nutrition. the micro herd in the soil feeds and breaks down these elements in the soil. the ionic elements then bind themselves to the soil (the amount of ions the soil can absorb is called CEC or Cation Exchange Capacity) , the plant then produces positively charged hydrogen ions which displace the negatively charged nutrient ions in the soil, and an "exchange" is made.


    or in simpler words, the plants need to create a symbiotic relationship with the soil life in order to feed.


    anyway that's the basic idea, and please correct me someone if i made a mistake my soil biology knowledge is not perfect ;)


    here is a good read for understanding CEC in soils:
    http://www.soilminerals.com/Cation_Exchange_Simpli...
     
  7. IME, gardening in any form is about patience - but it will and always does happen.


    OP, another excellent Mycorrhizal fungus spore product is from BioAg.


    J
     

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