Electrical problems

That's funny. I still do that with all the other stuff that needs to run other than lights

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Everything here is kid simple.  Go to the main breaker box.  Switch off only one breaker.  Record its amp number (ie 15, 20, 30, etc).  Then make a list of all receptacles no longer powered by that circuit breaker.  Repeat for every breaker.
 
  We usually give a kid that job because it is that simple.
 
  Or hire an electrician (maybe $80 per hour) to do it. (Of course he has fancier tools.)  Your choice.

 

Rugged on this guy man. Helpful but harsh.

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You could.  But your lights are 120 volts.  Correct?  Again, plug on your lights defines the type of circuit.
 
  On that 120 / 240 box are only 120 volt receptacles (that should not be powering 240 volts appliances).  Are your lights powered by a mating 120 volt plug?  Then those lights must connect to a 120 volt circuit for that particular plug. Not to a 240 volt (dryer) circuit.  Of course, an electrician can do that.
 
  A 1000 watt bulb for 120 volts means the bulb needs at least  (1000/120=8.3) 8.3 amps.  Obviously two bulbs on the same circuit (16.6 amps) is too much for a 15 amp circuit breaker.  And if on a circuit powered by a 20 amp breaker, then nothing else can be on that circuit.  To avert fire or other problems, you are expected to do this arithmetic.
 
  That three prong (where two rectangular prongs are in parallel) receptacle can be powered only by a 120 volt, 15 or 20 amp breaker.  That receptacle cannot be powered by any 240 volt breakers (such as one for a dryer).
 
  Shape of a wall receptacle says so much - defines current and voltage for that appliance (ie bulb)  Pictures of many receptacles are http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm.  Those brown and ivory receptacles were NEMA 5-15.  Chart says only for 15 amps and 125 volt circuits..
 
.  As I understand it, your bulb is 120 volts.  That means it can only be powered from receptalces shaped for 120 (125) volt appliances and plugs.  And that is what an electrician will (must) install.
 
  He will probably install two 20 amp (dedicated) 120 volt circuits and circuit breakers (if space is available in your breaker box).  Then you need not learn about existing circuits.

 

That box I showed was custom built westom. It is what it says on the box.

 

 
Then that panel must have many 120 volt circuit breakers and a four prong plug.  It acts like a secondary or sub-panel.  If not fixed to the wall, then it should have a UL rating.  Electrician will have to review it to confirm it is code legal.  Or may find it is better to have it fixed to the wall with a dedicated wire connection.
 
  If an 8000 watt box, then plug must supply at least 60 amps. Again 8000 watts means it wants (8000/240=33.3) more than 30 amps.  Is your HID box plug for 30 or 40 amps in that chart at   http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm ?
 
  Either way, probably best that he runs dedicated circuits.   What he can do will be determined by existing code restrictions such as available slots in the mains breaker box (and size of incoming utility service).

 

 
  The builder should have used 240 volt plugs where brown receptacles are located.  He used 120 volt plugs.  Not using 240 volt plugs was a safety violation.  View that chart at  http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm to see what receptacles and plugs he was required to use.

 

Here is what I did. pulled a 240vac from the main off a 60 amp breaker. using #6-3 wire to a load center that will take 6 circuit breakers. 
I have 2 20 amp in there now . i can add 240 or 120 legs from there.
 
Im good up to 6,000+ watts.
 
30 feet of #6 wire $100
60 amp breaker $40
load center pannel $14
20 amp breakers $6 each.

 

The wire must have two hots (so that 240 volts is between those two wires, a neutral, and a safety ground.  The box (case) must connect to the safety ground.  Each 120 volt neutral (white wire) prong must connect to the neutral.  And the hots on each 15 amp (Nema 5-15) duplex receptacle must connect to a 120 volt, 20 amp breaker.  More details apply (such as making sure the box is rated for aluminum or copper wire).  But these are the basics.
 
  The point is that neutral and safety grounds in the subpanel remain separate until both meet back at the main box.  Sometimes a screw must be removed inside the box (to separate those two wires).

 

 
I know, I have it.  here is a picture before my circuit breakers where installed.
 

 
Then my box when it had the first circuit ran.

 

I hear you but was set up that way to use original plugs that come with ballist. No need to buy new plugs. Have to be mindful of what gets plugged in for sure and may not be code for that reason but it works

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