Running 220 20amp circuit for ballasts. 110 20amp circuits for the rest of the room. Question is this: How do I get two ventilation fans that run on the 110 circuits....to turn on when the ballasts on the 220 circuit turn on aside from running them on two separate timers or on a relay? Any suggestions?
Simple timer would probably be the easiest way. A relay would be the coolest. Just because I'm a builder geek I would go with the relay. It would cost you more in the long run. Typically in builds for my customers, I run a seperate timers. Out of curiosity how are you turning on the lights?
Planning on timers because isn't that just the way you do it? So it would just be easier to run them on separate timers. How hard is it to sync them? I was looking at this: DIY 4-6 light controller for under $80 - Marijuana Growing ...and it's giving me some ideas. Do you think a 220-20amp circuit is the way to go for my ballasts? I ask you now because I'm planning on running the electrical in a few days. Easier to make changes now as opposed to after I've run it.
Hey Bro, Sorry I haven't had time to respond to your previuos PM. I can't even believe I'm typing when I have to be up in 5 hours. If you are looking at light controllers you might want to increase the wire size running to your room. First link is to calcuate amps based of watts Second is figure out wire size for given distance. It's better to teach how to fish then to...... RayLucke.com: Volts/Watts to Amperage Calculator Wire Size Calculator I always oversize my wires. More flexablity. Sync timers can be easy. But if in doubt start the fans first. It's really not that critical if you are not pushing your hood to the lowest limit without burning. (Coming soon, cooling intake hood air with dry ice and increasing CO2). Don't ask I going to start a thread in a month or so. DIY style. Yes two timers is the easiest.
Do those things cause much heat? And let me see if I can understand the set up: 220 outlet---->timer---->split ---->light. ---->light exhaust fan. Correct?
Yes, that's correct - split off the timer, one leg to light, one leg to step-down and on to fan. How big is the fan and how many amps/watts? A step-down will produce some heat since it's a transformer. Just size it for the fan, which shouldn't be much power consumed anyway, and I don't think heat will be an issue.
The light leg fan will be a 6 inch (per your suggestion in my other thread). I'm planning on a vortex. I plan on hooking the 8 inch passive exhaust leg to a thermostat to go on when heat gets too high.
A 6" vortex consumes about 100 watts, an 8" about 185 watts. I'd suggest a 200 watt step-down for each fan like this one for $9: https://www.samstores.com/details.asp?ProdID=222
I was only planning on running the 6" on the 220 circuit with ballasts. The 8" will be on a 110-20amp circuit. So step down not necessary for the 8". And do you think a 220 circuit is the way to go with for the ballasts?
This is what I was planning to use on the light leg of the ventilation: Vortex PowerFans 6 Inch Inline Exhaust Fan Duct Blower - eBay (item 220369889561 end time Feb-22-10 18:42:41 PST)
I'm a little confused. If you are pulling off one leg of the two 220 for stepping down?? It would already be 110. We are not talking 460 volt or 3 phase are we. You could create a small in balance on the panel and yes I have done that. I just didn't want to get smashed by all you electricians. I ran a 220 circuit to a Intermac timer. 220 went to ballast and grabbed one line for the fans. Works great. 110 vs. 220 any takers. I would challage anybody to prove to me there is a difference. Make sure to back it with ohms law. Amp times volts equals watts. 1000 watts equals 1 kilowatt. Which is the unit a measure power companies use to determine your bill. 220 is actually half the amps per side, for the total some of both legs equal to 110. Neat. Running wiring for 220 could be cheaper. With that said. I have found great deals on 120 volt ballasts because they were switching to more efficent ones. Local shop can't sell 1000 watt Lumateks rated for 120. I just paid 100.00 for a used one and they will sell me 12 brandnew ones with warranty for 210.00. I think thats about 45.00 below there cost. 220 is easier to sell. Many folks like using there dryer plug. I think that is another reason they sell easier. Not sure if this helps.
I'm not very good at electrical. I just noted that my nextgen ballasts will only draw 4.75 amps at 220 instead of 9.5 amps at 110...allowing me to run up to 3 ballasts on one 20 amp circuit. And as you probably know, the nextgens can take either 110 or 220. I have an electrician friend that is coaching me through. Mapped out my electrical box last week. Amazingly...their are 6 110v unused circuits (huge box for small house)...most of them are 20 amp. And I have one unused 220v 20amp circuit in there as well . So...I have to have a home owners insurance appraisal in the next few days. Then we really tear into that room. Run the wire (have farm boy friend that offered to go into crawl space...THANK GOD!). Wire up those three circuits. Pull old shitty carpet. Put up a wall between the two rooms...and I should be ready for clones no later than a week from today. BTW...opened up the closet on one side of the room (3'x 7'x10') that only had one little tiny door on one side to access it. We demo'd it last week. Put up a beam...and I just finished drywalling it in. So I now I have a small room for clones. I'll also be pulling my intake from the floor in that closet and mounting up my ballasts in there (wish I could run them outside the room...but just not possible). My 220 will be run into that closet. And I wasn't planning on using a dryer plug. Was looking at getting a receptacle of the outlets that look like plain old Edison outlets...but with the two hot legs lying horizontal instead of vertical like they are on an Edison receptacle. Than making a box like the DIY one I linked above.