I've built soil using the Coast of Maine Lobster compost. The smell dissipates after a while. I still have a 10 gallon pot going using it. I cover lightly.
Appreciate it an glad to hear it. Hope is dissipates a bit. It’s really strong when I open the container but I guess it gets a lil better. I added biochar today an a lil more water. Gonna let it cook a month or two then test it indoors. Thanks for your help
You want really stinky stuff. I'm making 8 cu.ft. of mix today. I charged my bio-char with fish hydrolysate and comfrey tea. This is how I mix my base. First picture has just had malted barley powder applied. Then I pull each corner in towards the center to mix. Then rake out and repeat. Three times and I leave it for 2 days and do it again. 2 days later, I do it a final time and the soil cooks for 3 plus weeks. I don't get hot spots in the soil doing it this way.
Chernozem, compost, zeolite, biohumus of red california worm and coconut (coconut brick). I am also a fan of the super soil and water only with water, this brings the best taste. Combined with beneficial soil bacteria and fungi (endo and ecto mycorrhiza), this unleash the plants to beast mode. We must replace the humus. Organic helps this mission, we take over and replace humus and this restores the quality of food, it is simple. We just have to focus on humus as a farmer, as a society, we need to worry about how we promote this activity among those who produce our food, herbs, and so on. The answer is simple, consuming only foods from those who are actively engaged in regenerative farming. As a society, we have to lobby in our political class .... that YOU(I) and others think ... carbon credits for poor farmers who do the work of the gods without payment for combining compost, compost and compost ... inoculate, for to restore lost soil fungus, lobbyists, politicians and business leaders to take action to prevent damage to soil microbes through intensive farming practices, we must look for microbial protection just as we protect polar bears. convert text to speech click here
Like the spirit! I don't think we are doing a good job protecting the Polar Bears either. The poor bears are moving onto ground from the disappearing ice pack and are even breeding with Brown Bears. cheers os
Hello, First post here. Followed the recipe on the first page to the letter, have had the best three months from seed ever with this mix. Growing Blue Dream outdoors in a 25-gallon bag. Flowering started two weeks ago around 48". Suddenly seeing what looks like magnesium deficiency. Per the recipe, I added a cup of dolomite lime per cubic ft. Have any of the veterans seen this much? Possibly strain specific? Container size part of the issue? Trying to figure this out and any help appreciated. IMG_7873 by cecilmctink posted Aug 9, 2020 at 8:25 AM IMG_7871 by cecilmctink posted Aug 9, 2020 at 8:25 AM IMG_7872 by cecilmctink posted Aug 9, 2020 at 8:25 AM IMG_7870 by cecilmctink posted Aug 9, 2020 at 8:25 AM
Does anyone know what happens if you grow with too many amendments for the soil too concentrated? Like too much kelp/crab/alfalfa meal compared to soil? Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
That doesn't look like a Mg deficiency to me. They could just be old leaves yellowing and dropping. Pull them all, and see if you have new leaves doing the same.
Your new soil cannot keep up with the demands of Blue Dream. Blue Dream is a heavy feeder. You need to add mulch to encourage microbial growth in your soil. Are you following the watering schedule too? I would make a alfalfa/kelp tea myself.
Appreciate you weighing in. Added a top dressing of about 1/2" of EWC and 1.5 cups of kelp meal--hoping that's enough to get her through flower. Will add mulch next. Thanks so much.
No-Till Gardening: Revisited is a great thread to read. It's a bit more updated than this recipe. Here is the watering schedule used in that thread. Day 1 Plain water Day 2 No watering Day 3 MBP top-dress watered in with Aloe/Fulvic/Silica (agsil or your silica source of choice) Day 4 No watering Day 5 Plain water Day 6 Neem/Kelp tea Day 7 No watering Day 8 Plain water Day 9 No watering Day 10 Coconut Water Day 11 No watering REPEAT - Beginning to end, no changes needed for various stages of growth, simple enough right? This helps us along with the first cycle as the new soil matures.
I don't have an answer for you, other than your pot may be too small to sustain the needs of the size plant that's growing in it. I'm working on a theory centered around nutrient availability (or lack thereof) in organic potting soils. What soil mix did you use, and what form of compost/VC/EWC did you use in your soil mix? Is it possible to provide a full plant pic', pot included, so I can get an idea of what sized plant you're growing in those 25 gallon bags?
I've read that barley is NOT recommended for "TLO". Can someone explain why? Furthermore, do y'all cut your recycled soil with EWC right before you use it? Thanks to all who reply. Sent from my SM-J320V using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Hi, @waktoo, I think you’re right about container size, combined with @TimJ’s comment about new soil and Blue Dream. Here’s the recipe I used with zero issues until week two of flower: Soil recipe: Base 1/3 peat moss 1/3 compost (ewc, lobster compost) 1/3 perlite Per Cubic ft 1 cup kelp meal 1.5 cup dry fertilizer (Espoma “Tomato Tone”) 1 cup dolomite lime 4 cups rock dust Aug 4, 2020 Aug 12, 2020
Nice plant.. I've grown Blue Dream on and off since the 90's, same genetics. Mine tends to stretch through week 5 of flower and is always hungry. I'm sure waktoo will offer some sound advice. I'm still learning no-till from these guys myself.
First, I’m strictly an indoor grower. So no experience with what pot sizes are appropriate for a full outdoor season. The physical characteristics of your yellowing leaves are not what I was expecting. Depending on how long that plant’s been in that pot, and based upon what’s in your soil mix, I’d guess you soil’s running out of juice, primarily N. Without soil tests, what the soil is light on is really nothing more than a guess with living soil systems. I would try a few applications of fish hydrolysate to see if the leaves green up, followed by a top dressing of your Tomato Tone covered with a light layer of compost/VC to get them through to harvest. Just my 2c....
Can I ask how you all are using frass as part of a soil building recipe? It's pretty low rounded with npk of 2/2/2. I was thinking about replacing about 1/3 of my worm casting portion with the frass, but so far I've only read about people using it as a top dress or foliar, not necessarily as part of a soil build