Short answer is yes and simple to do. Made from scratch is mo betta, but you can make bagged stuff work. #1 & #2 things you should get going on to make life easier down the road. #1: Start a worm bin. The worm bin/fresh VC, is probably the most significant thing you can do AFA organic growing is concerned. It also takes about 6 months for a brand new bin to produce enough VC for starting, but is continious after that. #2: Find a local or close source for the 4cf (30 gal), bags of perlite. More places carry it than have it on display, so it's a good bit of searching. Ask at feed & seed stores or builders supply places (perlite is also used as insulation). Local prices for me is ~$20/4cf bag and more than $25 is a bit of a rip. HTH Wet
I use pine bark nuggets for my acid loving plants as it breaks down towards acidic pH. That would be my only caution with you keep an eye on the pH of your soil Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Tapatalk
Thank you wetdog! I have actually been researching on how to make a worm bin! We're moving in a month to a little bit of land, so I need to wait a little on that. I may just get a head start in a large plastic tote though. I didn't know about getting local perilite though. Is that because it's cheaper, or because local materials are mo compatible with my conditions? Thx Wet
Cheaper. Perlite is very light, 30 gallons (4cf), only weighs 18lbs but is very bulky and takes up a lot of space. It is also inert and really doesn't react with anything, so compatibility isn't an issue. All my worms are in plastic totes and indoors. Kept saying I have 6 bins going but it's actually 7 bins since I keep missing one that's off by itself. The oldest 2 are 10 years old and have been in continious production the whole 10 years. Redwormcomposting.com has a wealth of info on everything worms and their DIY Rubbermaid tote bin is the ones I've used all this time. There are plenty of bin designs, but this is what works best for me and my situation. The bedding I use utilizes stuff that goes into the soil mix anyway (peat moss, perlite, lime, pine bark mulch), simple, easy to make, and most important to me, consistant in makeup. HTH Wet
Much appreciation Wet! Thank you for your time. I have learned more in the past few weeks with gardening than I have in the last few years, thanks to all you intelligent AF organic mofos! Y'all have opened my eyes and exploded my mind! One day I can hopefully pass this on!
My apologies if this was already covered in the 700 some pages. I’m in a bit of a jam and need to make more soil, but i dont have the cook time. Is there an effective alternative without the 2-4 week cook time? Need to up pot and would rather not buy pre bagged soil.
Should not be much of a problem. Simply make you mix using 1/4cup/cf of the NPK amendments instead of the usual 1cup/cf. Just enough to get the microbes going and provide some food without scorching the plants. I'd also suggest 40% aeration. *I* prefer perlite myself. Use just enough to cover the rootball, leaving plenty of room in the top of the container. Mix up some 'full strength' mix to cook for the 2-4 weeks (still with the 40% aeration), and fill the containers the rest of the way when it has cooled down. It ain't perfect, but will do in a pinch. Wet
Thanks bro. I’ve always here say you can only do organic water only in 7-gallon and up sized pots. Sent from my iPad using Grasscity Forum
Soil Question I tested the NPK and pH of newly mixed soil with a Luster Leaf Rapid Test 1601. It was hard to tell pH color; it looked like diluted, pale green milk. I've been studying ITG's posts so I'm not real concerned about it. However--- N was too high, P and K were deficient. Wondering if results are connected to just mixing the dirt. I didn't have some of the amendments and added others (of what I surmised were) similar. Ingredients were thoroughly mixed after each addition. I've listed them in the order I mixed them. Thanks in advance for the help! Recipe 7.5 gal each Pro Mix 15 Commercial mushroom compost (brand name not in notes) 3 cup Dolomite Lime 1cup each Dr. Earth Organic Root Zone Starter Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Flower Girl Bud & Bloom Booster 3 cup Fox Farm Marine Cuisine 3 cup Playground Sand (read about it & seemed legit) 3 cup Extreme Gardening Azos (ITG's recipe called for 12c, only had 3) 1/ cup Mykkos Inoculant (all I had) 6 gal Small diameter Perlite (only type available) Reviewing my mix I see mistakes already-- ITG recommended only 3c TOTAL amendments. Seems like I should have gotten higher readings on the P & K. But I'd really like to know if cooking time would give me a different result. Or am I doing something else wrong? Thanks again!
Nothing happens till water is added when making a fresh mix and it needs some time before testing. Yep, you need your cooking time. More than overdid it with the amendments, but very easy to fix with this fresh mix. Simply add one more 7.5 gal promix AND another 6 gal bag of perlite. BTW, the small size is the correct size for container mixes. Do not add anything else! Moisten thoroughly and let it cook. Make sure your container has drainage and some air holes if the lid is tight fitting. This is still going to be a pretty 'warm' mix since it is only 2/3 of the amount of base mix for the amounts of amendments added, but can probably be worked with. A third bag of ProMix/perlite would bring everything into balance, but you could live without it if necessary. HTH Wet
Thanks Wet. I’ve got more of the ProMix and pearlite; will this add to mix this evening. Mix is sitting in a huge tub at sunny end of porch. Plan is to toss it thoroughly every day. It’s covered with a shallow tray , but I’m thinking about screening the top soon. Will retest NPK after cooking— Figured I’d ‘dilute’ with plain organic dirt if it‘s hot. Moving toward organic with every plant I own, including house plants. Just seems like a better way to grow everything. NO ONE has ever made it as easy to understand as ITG. Her knowledge, teaching and generous spirit— I stand in awe. And there are others like her who have kept this tread alive, most with her gentle ways. Like others have written, this feels like a safe place. Since my potting area occupies that same sunny spot at the end of my porch, organic everything also gives me a bit of cover with nosey friends. First Rule followed! I’m hoping healthier porch plants will seal the deal in anyone’s mind. Even switched to HLG’s QBs! Bit of a learning curve (from Chinese blurple) but loving ‘em! Trying to stay as far under radar as possible; white light is good light. Found the alfalfa and neem meal online; hope to add these into my next mix. Again, thanks so much. Kwince
Been a long ass time since I've posted, figure my organic veg are killing it so why not share. Don't know why they're doing so well, this summer has had an average of 4 days of rain out of 7. They only get the evening sun too, or the little we've had!These pics are from Canada day..... July 1st for all you Yanks! Lol Before and after harvest.
Fast forward 3 weeks and my tom is fucking flexin' Sent from my SM-A520W using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Organic soil-less and ——- hard well water or store bought Spring water? Is TDS a non-issue, like pH, when using something similar to ITG’s basic recipe? When I flush- which never more than once a grow, I use a water hose about 1/4 open; plants seem to like it. Ash is always white. Hear that means plant is cleaner than one that produces darker ash. A new Q is helping me kick that habit, lol. When I first started growing I had some problems that switching water solved. Didn’t keep notes back then. Only remember that happy plants became unhealthy and died. No more deaths with store bought water. Outside plants all get well water— they’re all doing well. Might ask our ag agent to send off a test sample of well water. I believe it’s free at least once a year. Should do a side-by-side next go round and answer my own question. ...aaah Q’d... BUT, if anyone has any insights... I will thank you now. K
TDS is an issue in the sense that as you water you are adding calcium and other minerals to the soil. While the water will evaporate or be used by the plant many of the minerals will build up in the soil. What I do with my Japanese maples is water them heavily with Epsom salt to flush the soil and give magnesium at the same time. Typically I do it once a month in the summer season. Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Tapatalk
Question have any of you picked up the dr. Earth liquid fertilizer that is being sold at the dollar store right now? It comes in a hose-end bottle Amazon has it for $18 each Dollar store had it for $2 each. Seems to have good ingredients for what we are doing plus some prebiotics Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Tapatalk
Is horse shit mixed with hay any use when mixed with organic soil or just dirt? I may have a source in the area but don't want to make any crap that will harm plants for next year.
You can make an awesome compost pile and/or use it to feed a worm bin. I prefer to feed my worms from the compost pile for the best results. cheers os
The guy that I buy my worm castings from is a horse trainer, the horses he deals with are very expensive and fed top-quality feed. The worm castings I get from him are the best I've ever had, if anybody is in southern California and once a hookup message me he's in Corona California Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Tapatalk