DWC - Secret Jardin DS90

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Grow Journals' started by nonfiction, Jun 19, 2013.

  1. i can see white down the little grodan hole (maybe i peeked a little) it's gonna pop tonight or tomorrow, the other is a day or two behind (wtf do i know im guessing) but that only means one thing....
    i'd guess 5gal? i think typical pail size.... first go at coco, i have that pure blend pack so i do have the calmag stuff already, think the rest is simple :D wish me luck

  2. #82 nonfiction, Aug 6, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 11, 2013
    Using tap water is perfectly fine IMO. I personally use it, and have had no ill effects.
    My water typically comes out at 7.1pH, and EC of 1.3. One advantage tap water has, is the ppm/e.c of the water. It helps "buffer" your nutrient mix, and some hydroponics nutrients rely on that. I use Canna Aqua Vega/Flores, which recommends my waters stats.
    So, If you were to freeze 7.1pH water, and put them in your 5.8pH water, there may be a slight ph change. It will also change your ppm/e.c, because the ice cubes have less nutrients in them.
    Personally, I have used the water bottles because it's faster to change, and if you want to really monitor your water, that's the easiest way. That way you can tell if the ppms have gone up/down, indicative of over/under feeding. When you mix your soup perfectly, everything will stay the same, meaning the plant is drinking water and absorbing nutrients at an even rate.
    Do a quick google search of the products... also, if you cant pronounce all the shit on the bottle, it probably doesn't have bennies/organics haha
    Yeah, rez temps are important, and so is light proofing. They both make for very possible cases of Root Rot. I'm not really sure what to tell ya, dude... I'd rather have a 60f rez with a little light leak, than a 75f one without a light leak lol.
    Are you having problems with light proofing your rez?
  4. Put the pots on a small ebb n flow tray, so they drain into it. Use that essentially as a funnel, and put a gravity return line to wherever you want to collect the water again :)
    btw, 2 plants can easily fill up a square meter given the proper LST/Topping/SCROG. Best of luck, dude!
  5. I went to a local hydro store and they sold me a white not light proof bucket lid and I've been chasing since, changed to black and still, other plants are okay I think I gotta check....
  6. Last auto seed root finally broke the net and is growing into the water! And now the fun begins..... Auto nL still isn't flowering wtf
  7. also i dont have aquashield, i bought regen-a-root instead, i dont think any of my nutes have benniss
    are you serious?
    im running prob 25c without light leaks and the plants are fine okay, im sure they could be better but its first grow... im thinking of buying another 40$ air pump and drilling another hole into each buckets (i have 4dwc running atm with 1 4slot airpump) and run twice as much air, not much i can do about the temperature in DWC in summer, ice and packs, but i work so it still increases when im working anyways, i cant connect all and put res out of tent because different stage autos, i started 2 hempys though so we will see how it goes... i may use the 4 dwc for hempy clones and connnect all buckets with res out of tent, or should i  just get away from dwc and NOT buy another air pump?
  9. #89 M3DICIN3MAN420, Aug 9, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 9, 2013
    I've been having the same issue with the res temp and have been skating by with frozen water bottles haha. I'm going to make another res, hook it up and place it in the shaded area. It's my first crack at any form of hydro.Sorry I can't help ya brother! Good luck in your journey!Edit: what nutes you using? You said they balance you pH. My AN does that and its nice.
  10. @[member="M3DICIN3MAN420"] we're in the same boat! are you making a journal?
  11. Yeah, man. Here's why:
    Pythium is anaerobic (it thrives in conditions that have low oxygen). It is classified as an Oomycete, which is "water mold"
    That means pythium loves water with low amounts of Oxygen.
    The amount of oxygen water can hold is dependent on it's temperature. The colder the water, the more oxygen it can hold. This is why people prefer to run a colder rez.
    Let's say you had 75f water... its would be able to hold about 8.7mg/L of Dissolved Oxygen.... at 60f, the oxygen solubility is 10.2 mg/L.
    These numbers are the maximum amount (saturation) of the water.
    ^There is a great chart available on that website. It's a PDF file.
    SO, even if i blasted the $hit out of the water, that's all it's gonna hold.
    Algae will also have a hard time forming at 60f.
    If you can't relocate the rez either by giving more length to hoses/etc, and it HAS to stay in the tent, I would look into insulating the rez. That can be done by wrapping it with insulation film, etc.
    If you're strapped for cash, or don't wanna wrap your rez, you can make an entirely new one made out of a Cooler. It'll make the ice bottles go ALOT further.
    This will also help if you decide to get a chiller in the future. It wont put as much stress on it.
  12. #93 nonfiction, Aug 11, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 11, 2013
    bought a second air pump, 4 slots 7 watts, over 10l/m so i now have a 5inch round airstone in every bucket as well as a second blue one just adding more bubbles! two coco buckets in tent also, still running 18/6 my second to sprout auto skunk mass is getting close to flower i stopped big bud im thinking about 2 weeks left? maybe not... first auto skunk never really recovered after root problems and her buds are showing, she'll get half the wait if that, and less quality i believe, oh and she's gonna take way longer, atleast 2 week longers, my northern light still isnt flowering, and i cant change lights for months soo idk ill prob just keep her until she either flowers or gets too big and ill keep trimming until i flower my coco plants....
    that diovolo is starting to get to the size where she'll take off, ill do pics asap
  13. also as far as collecting waste water in hempy i used a drain tube that bends up to stop water going, same way most dwc buckets have, but now i can funnel the water into whatever i want
  14. #95 nonfiction, Aug 11, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 11, 2013
    pic updatezzzzz
    first popped auto skunk mass, the one with root issues
    asm1 budshot.jpg
    asm1 budshot2.jpg
    second auto skunk mass no root issues
    asm2 budshot.jpg
    asm2 budshot2.jpg
    genehtik auto northern lights not auto  - god damnit... on other hand notice new pump, running 11wats of air now, over 20L a minute for 4 buckets
    not auto auto NL.jpg
    diavolo or whatever its called - starting growth now
    diavolo 2.jpg
    il diovolo.jpg
    mazar x white rhino 1 (popped first) already in 5gal coco hempy bucket
    mazar x white rhino 2
    smaller coco with perlite mixed (running out of space in tent)
  15. photo.JPG
    Coco perlite mix, tiny bit of veg and cloning product, another clone attempt here.... only looking for one, If I can get kalesh clone, and the two mazar whiterhinos, im prettty sure thats a full tent :D if the clone doesnt take i'll pop a few seeds in dwc the second my auto mass skunks are finished, the one with root problems is just dying, it has no roots, the leafs are going shit, i dont know if i should just chop early freeing up the space, the airpump slots and id be able to use the hydroton in that to top off my other buckets :D on the other hand maybe my plant can still produce better buds? im thinking no because there's no white roots left.... i guess some pictures would make this easier ;-) so the plant im debating on killing was the first auto skunk mass that popped, that had a white dwc lid and instantly got root rot that ive been chasing for months, think it stands a chance or take it as learning cut it down now giving me more all the benefits of it being gone?
    photo 1.JPG
    photo 2.JPG
    photo 3.JPG
    photo 2.JPG
    photo 3.JPG
    photo 4.JPG
    photo 5.JPG
    are the roots too bad? cut now or wait?
    the second asm with no root problem im going to run longer for sure, but idk if this is as good as its gettting......

    Attached Files:

  16. i did something crazy....
    first auto skunk mass sprouted:
    obviously i couldnt cure the root rot in the shitty setup, if i had to harvest this second, id be fine considering first grow, but i did the next best thing, i transplanted into coco and flushed the fuck out of it
    here's a shitty picture of the plant in coco
    here's some more shitty pictures of the buds, only one site is in focus per pic, sorry guys :( any idea if i should feed or just flush?
    photo 1.JPG
    photo 2.JPG
    photo 3.JPG
    photo 4.JPG
  17. Feed once more then flush

    Sent from my Nexus 4 using Grasscity Forum mobile app

  18. once more? i transplanted out of dwc bucket ten mins ago,so would be first feeding in coco, its brand new coco too, still think i should feed?
  19. #100 nonfiction, Aug 14, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 14, 2013
    7pm august 13th both auto skunk masses are approx 52 days from seed (day 30 of flowering)just did my last feeding on coco (unless someone suggests i run longer) i'm gonna give my dwc skunk mass a few more days until i switch to plain water, im really getting close to first harvest, getting super excited now! i based on looks and personal experience, researching etc,  i'd have probably ran a week or 2 longer, guessing, but since everything else was right as the breeder said (veg time, female seeds), maybe i should harvest at day 65 like they suggested.... or was it flowering for 65 days? oh shit

Share This Page