So I got some more nutrients? And I guess they are expert advanced level teqnique because there is no nute thread. Lol I wrote in the title dry amendments butttt I am not sure that applies to all powdered nutrients and that is what i have general questions about. How hard is it to switch to dry/powder nutes? It already takes me forever to mix liquid nutes, I dont want to be in there for an extra bunch of time making powder into liquid. The main reason for asking of course is dry nute are cheaper. What are some good brands of dry nutes? I was thinking of trying something like nectar 1 shot since it is a pre mix of all dry nutes you need. Thoughts, comments, experience welcome thanks as always gc
The one shot is not something that you mix with water. You mix the needed amount with your soil and then you just water throughout the grow. Also when using dry ammendments you should mix it and then let it sit for a few weeks before using in order for the nutes to break down into a usable form.
I use this and initially mix in with my soil and water only, with a top dress once a month....oh and its organic https://www.gaiagreen.com/
This contains all the macro and micro nutrients required for good plant health. I use tap water with the MaxiBloom and very rarely have to use a calmag supplement.
Don't know if that is what you are looking for but the MS stuff kicks GH's 3 part ass. And for for 80 bucks you have a 2 year supply at least. Here’s Soil2Coco's feed charts. You can drop the calcium Nitrate totally if you don’t deal with calcium deficiencies since the Masterblend base has enough N Masterblend feeding schedule Magnesium sulfate Calcium Nitrate And Masterblend 4-18-38 base I love to be able to manipulate these throughout the grow. For instance I’ll go Early veg per 5 gallons 3g magnesium sulfate 6g Calcium Nitrate 6g Masterblend base 12 ml silica 12 ml hydroguard Late veg per 5 gallons 5g magnesium sulfate 10g Calcium Nitrate 10g Masterblend base 12 ml silica 12ml hydroguard For early flowering (week 3) per 5 gallons 8g magnesium sulfate 2g calcium nitrate 8g Masterblend base 1/2 dose Flower Fuel Mid flowering weeks 4-6 per 5 gallons 10g magnesium sulfate 1g Calcium Nitrate 10g Masterblend base Full Flower Fuel dose Week before flush 5g magnesium sulfate 5g Masterblend base 1/2 dose Flower Fuel flush for a week or so or until ppms come out under 200 Flower Fuel is like $20 and will last a whole cycle silica and hydroguard are cheap. It’s all affordable "UNDERSTANDING NPK Cookin' up chronic requires an understanding of N-P-K. This stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium respectively. These are your primary nutrients. All plant-food labels include the percentage of these three elements in numerical form. N-P-K levels must change to correspond with the different stages of your plant's growth. There are secondary nutrients and micronutrients also, but these are needed in very small amounts, and will be present in sufficient quantities as long as you use quality organic fertilizers. You will not need to know specific amounts , nor will you need to manipulate them. Within the vegetative cycle, there are separate of growth to recognize. Seedlings with one or two sets of leaves requires very low primary nutrients to encourage growth. Plants with five-bladed leaves and rooted clones qualify as early vegetative, and graduate to mild feeding. The next stage is mid-vegetative, and requires aggressive feeding for robust growth. The week be for initiating flowering is called late vegetative, and is a good time to throttle back nitrogen by 25% and prepare plants for flowering by feeding 50/'50 mix of bloom and grow formulas[see below for details]. The flowering cycle also has early, middle and late stages growth that call for diet adjustments. Here's my recommendation for N-P-K ratios throughout your garden's life. The length of time between stages is up to you. You might want to grow six foot trees or a table of one Sea of Greens. VEGETATIVE: Seedlings 2-1-2 Early Vegetative 4-2-3 Mid-Vegetative 10-5-7 FLOWERING: Cycle Changeover 7-7-7 Early Flowering 5-10-7 Mid-Flowering 6-15-10 Late Flowering 4-10-7 Even more important than the actual numbers is the ratio of each of the primary nutrients to each other. The reason why one farmer can grow using nutrients with a rating of 15-30-15 and another can get identical results using 5-10-5 is because the proportion of each nutrient is the same. During the vegetative-growth stage, phosphorus levels should be maintained at 1/2 that of nitrogen and potassium at 1/2-2/3 that of nitrogen. During flowering, phosphorus takes the lead: Give nitrogen at 1/2 and potassium at 1/2-2/3 the strength of phosphorus. Notice that potassium is consistently maintained throughout both stages at 1/2-2/3 the level of the main nutrient. Staying close to this ratio will make sure you don't have a nutrient lock up, when unused nutrients combine to form compounds that your plant can't use." Here's another link where they had a pretty clear explanation on the difference between "weight" and "ratio" of nutrients, underlined and quoted below, to provide a little more understanding on what those 3 little numbers are really trying to tell us!! Site | Ohioline General and Special-Purpose Fertilizers The various products labeled “general-purpose fertilizers” contain either equal amounts of each major nutrient (N-P-K ratio 12-12-12, for example) or a slightly higher percentage of nitrogen than of phosphorus and potassium (such as a 12-8-6 product). Such fertilizers are intended to meet most plants’ general requirements throughout the growing season. Special-purpose fertilizers, on the other hand, are formulated for specific needs. They’re aimed at the gardener who wants a particular combination of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for certain plants or garden situations. These fertilizers are of three general types. One type, used during the period of active growth, contains largely nitrogen. Such products, with N-P-K ratios such as 16-6-4, are often used in spring, when you want to encourage lush growth or green up your lawn. Another type is meant to stimulate root growth, stem vigor, and flower and fruit production. Fertilizers of this sort contain little nitrogen and higher levels of phosphorus and potassium; the N-P-K ratio may be 3-20-20, for example. These products are applied at different times and in different ways, depending on what you want to achieve. When you prepare a new planting area, for instance, you’ll work a dry granular fertilizer of this sort deeply into the soil, putting the phosphorus and potassium where roots can absorb them. The nutrients help strengthen the new plants’ developing stems and encourage the growth of a dense network of roots. To promote flower production and increase the yields of fruit or vegetable crops, you apply the same sort of fertilizer to established plants after they’ve completed their first flush of growth. You can use either dry granules, scratching them lightly into the soil, or apply a liquid formula with a watering can or a hose-end applicator. A third group of fertilizers is designed for use on specific plants. These feature the N-P-K ratios determined to elicit the best performance from the particular plant, as well as other elements proven valuable to that plant. Such fertilizers are named according to the plant they’re intended to nourish. Especially useful are formulas for citrus trees and acid-loving plants such as camellia and rhododendron. Recently, other such plant-specific fertilizers have appeared on nursery shelves, each claiming to be the best choice for a certain plant or group of plants; you may see several sorts of “tomato food” or “flower fertilizer,” for example. The jury is still out on the benefit of many of these products, and you will often do just as well to use a general-purpose type. The main distinction is often the price: the “special” formulas are usually costlier than general-purpose kinds. Synthetic and Organic Fertilizers Some fertilizers are manufactured in the laboratory, while others are derived from natural sources. Each has certain advantages. Synthetic fertilizers. These products are derived from the chemical sources listed on the product label. They’re faster acting than organic kinds and provide nutrients to plants quickly, making them a good choice for aiding plants in severe distress from nutrient deficiencies. Synthetic fertilizers are sold both as dry granules to be applied to the soil and as dry or liquid concentrates to be diluted in water before application. In dry form, they’re usually less expensive than their organic counterparts. In some of the dry granular types (those known as controlled-release fertilizers), the fertilizer granules are coated with a permeable substance; with each watering, a bit of fertilizer diffuses through the coating and into the soil. Depending on the particular product, the nutrient release may last anywhere from 3 to 8 months. Some synthetic products are packaged for special purposes; you’ll find spikes and tabs for container plants, for example. Note that synthetic fertilizers usually do not contain any of the secondary or micronutrients ― but in most cases, these nutrients are already present in the soil. If a test indicates that some are missing, look for a fertilizer that provides them. Organic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are derived from the remains of living organisms; blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal, and fish emulsion are just a few of the many available types. Organic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly: rather than dissolving in water, they’re broken down by bacteria in the soil, providing nutrients as they decompose. Because these fertilizers act slowly, it’s almost impossible to kill lawns or plants by applying too much (overdosing with synthetics, in contrast, can have potentially fatal results). Some manufacturers combine a variety of organic products in one package, then offer them for general-purpose or specialized use. Two commonly used soil amendments ― compost and manure ― have some nutritive value and can be used as part of an organic fertilizing program. The N-P-K ratio of compost varies from 1.5-.5-1 to 3.5-1-2. Chicken manure’s N-P-K ratio ranges from 3-2.5-1.5 to 6-4-3; that of steer manure is usually a little less than 1-1-1. Fertilizers containing seaweed are gaining favor with many gardeners. Besides providing nutrients in a form immediately available to plants, seaweed contains mannitol, a compound that enhances absorption of nutrients already in the soil, and various hormones that stimulate plant growth. And the carbohydrates in seaweed break down rapidly, nourishing soil-dwelling bacteria that fix nitrogen and make it available to plant roots. Mixed with water and sprayed directly on foliage, seaweed-containing fertilizers can have dramatic effects in a matter of days. Plants green up and begin to produce new growth, and those that are weak stemmed and straggly straighten up and become stronger. Understanding Fertilizer Ingredients and N-P-K Numbers NPK: What Is The Best Ratio For Growing Cannabis - Cannabis Grow Guide Guaranteed analysis The label on all fertilizer bags is required to show the percentage by weight of nitrogen, available phosphate and soluble potash. This is called the guaranteed anaylsis of the fertilizer. The first number is Nitrogen (N), which promotes overall grass shoot growth. The second number is available Phosphate (P₂O₅), which promotes strong root growth. The third number is soluble Postash (K₂O), which helps grass withstand stress, drought or disease. For example, a 24-2-8 fertilizer has 24% nitrogen, 2% available phosphate and 8% soluble potash. Nitrogen, phosphate and potash are also sometimes referred to as N-P-K. To understand how much of each nutrient is being applied to your lawn, you must multiply the weight of the fertilizer bag by the percentage of each nutrient. For example, a 30 lb. bag of fertilizer rated 24-2-8 contains: N: 24% x 30 lbs = 7.2 lbs. Nitrogen P: 2% x 30 lbs = 0.6 lbs. Available Phosphate K: 8% x 30 lbs = 2.4 lbs. Soluble Potash Q: How do I determine if my hydroponic nutrient solution is the right concentration for my plants? A: Most hydroponic fertilizer companies will include application directions in their product literature that are broken down by specific plant sizes and stages of development, but there are steps you can take to ensure your plants receive adequate nutrition. Frequent EC measurements will help you determine whether the nutrient solution in your reservoir is too strong or too weak for your crop. If the water level in the reservoir drops relatively quickly and the EC measurements rise, then the solution likely contains more nutrients than your crop requires. Make adjustments by adding purified water until the EC levels out. If the water level in the reservoir drops relatively slowly, but the EC measurements fall at a fast rate, then the nutrient solution is likely too weak to meet your plants’ needs. To remedy this, add nutrients at half-strength until the EC stops dropping to help even out water-to-nutrient consumption rates. When the water level drops at a more normal pace, depending on plant sizes, and the EC measurements stay stable the whole time, then the nutrient solution is at the right concentration. Finding the sweet spot for the nutrient solution strength may take some trial and error, but you will know when it is reached because the EC measurement will stay steady as the solution level in the reservoir drops. The sweet spot may also fluctuate as plants grow and require greater amounts of water and nutrients. If you want to top off the nutrient reservoir so it maintains a certain level, simply fill to the desired level with purified water and then add extra nutrients until the desired EC measurement is reached once more. Some growers will use a nutrient solution mix that is one-third to one-half the suggested concentration to top off reservoirs. A top-off solution is a great way to maintain a consistent EC measurement. Macronutrients like nitrogen will be taken up by plants at faster rates when compared to trace elements like copper. To avoid excess accumulations of trace elements, the nutrient reservoir solution will occasionally need to be completely replaced. A good way to ensure the solution is changed frequently enough to avoid complications is to replace it after the total volume of the reservoir has been replaced through topping off. For example, if the nutrient reservoir is 5 gallons and it is topped off with 1 gallon every day, then after five days, the solution should be completely replaced with a fresh mix. I highly recommend reading all the literature the hydroponic nutrient company has to offer before starting a grow cycle to determine suggested rates. This will give you a good idea of where to start and small adjustments can be made from there. True Aquaponics Store Thank you for your purchase of Calcium Carbonate/, from True Aquaponics. Use 0.375 ounces per 100 gallons to start or 3.75 ounces per 1000 gallons. Check your PH before you add and then several hours later to see how your PH reacts. You do not want to change your PH more than 0.2 per 24 hours. Record all your readings and how much you added with the dates so that you have a reference of what you did, this will help you down the road. Then watch your plants for their reaction and adjust the amount you add no more than once per week. As you learn what your system needs by tracking what you do and how the system reacts, you will be able to put together a dosing schedule. If you are trying to raise your PH, then monitor your PH daily as you make adjustments to the amount of calcium carbonate you add to your system. Always check your PH before and the several hours after you dose and record the levels along with how much you added so that you can track and adjust your progress.