Dr. Earth works!!!

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by Deluxbud, Dec 10, 2009.

  1.  
    I used this before I started blending my own fertilizers and I give it high marks for those just getting their feet wet with organics.
     
     
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  2. I saw some people saying it's worse Than MG I wanted to get some soil I thought either tomato line but I see people say pot of gold .. Idk what to do I don't want another soil like miracle grow but the dr green looked appealing


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  3.  
    I've never used their POTting Soil so I can't comment. If you're looking for a good ready to use potting soil in a bag, the following thread has some good ideas from members here that have used them. I realize that not everyone can construct their own soil from scratch as most here do so you might find some useful information in this thread.
     
    Ready to Grow Bagged Soils
     
  4. chickity do do. is just as good if not better at a much lower cost. imho of course.:D

    Twas Ever Thus!
     
  5. I just picked up some horse manure and hay from local barn ima do a lasagna


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  6. I use Dr Earth Soft Rock Phosphate and Fish bone meal. Great product, however I wish the SRP was in smaller size, the clayballs are slightly large IMO.
     
  7. Do you have any recommendations? Feeding schedule for outdoor?
     
  8. Can you tell me how much you used as far as lije a ratio to water?
     
  9. I'm not sure if I'm fully understanding your question (lije?), but...

    This is not a soluble product. It's meant to be used as a top dressing or mixed directly into the soil. The materials used in this product have to be broken down by microbial degradation in order to release the nutrients contained within.
     
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  10. It is organic. There are directions on the back of it for making a tea i just do not know how much i should add to how much water to start with
     
  11. I have dissolved it completely it comes back very brown water with organic looking sediment
     
  12. OK. Good luck.
     
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  13. Plants and fert...
     

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  14. Monstercrop clone 4 days after new growth of serrated leaves started again in reveg an about 5 3 week old seedlings
     
  15. @waktoo So I use the mix as instructed from the no-till revisited thread but used to use the dr earth all purpose organic fertilizer with great results. Is this something I could throw into the no-till mix or is that already covered by other amendments on there? That and alfalfa meal were the constituents I took out of my soil mix by switching over to the no-till mix. It seems I have a strange recurring calcium deficiency that takes hold about week 3 of veg, didnt know if these could help that.
     
  16. Two problems people tend to run into with Blue Jay's recipe as listed is A) A lack of any liming agent, which could contribute to both pH problems and Calcium deficiencys and B) A noteable lack of a P source, such as bone meal.

    I know Scooby addressed the lime part in his 'revised' no till recipe, but not sure of the P source. I myself use my own varient of the EZ organic mix from ITG for both no till and recycling.

    So, did you add any liming agent or some form of Ca to your mix? I use both dolomite and gypsum, but figure dolo just for pH and gypsum for supplimental Ca and Sulfur.
     
  17. @wetdog I definitely think that is what is primarily going on with my current mix...either PH or calcium deficiency due to lack of liming amendments. I did put oyster shell flour in but not a whole lot. I did a topdress of a tbsp of gypsum but have yet to see any positive results as of yet...would that be the right thing to topdress if I was deficient in calcium? The only other thing I thought of was crab shell meal but did gypsum figuring if it happened to be a sulfur deficiency id be covered there also. For P I definitely did not add bone meal to the mix...what would be the best way to get that in with a topdress? I know bone meal takes quite a bit of time to break down but I am in veg and plan on being in veg for at least 4 more weeks so maybe that would be beneficial? The main reason I didn't use dolomite is because I had heard that overtime it would cause a magnesium lockout in a no till setup if it was reapplied...would you just start with dolomite in the initial mix and switch to oyster shell flour for the topdressing?
     
  18. I only use lime in terms of pH and not so much as a Ca source (even though it is). It is the second thing added to a new mix with peat moss being the first and they are dry mixed. I now use 1 1/2 cups/cf after finding out peat is way more acidic than I previously thought. I thought it was ~5.5 from the bale and it is actually closer to ~4.5. Plus the pine bark that is also added to the mix.

    It is hard to overapply, but easy enough to under apply, since it works by contact, or at least very close proximity to what it's buffering. That's why I dry mix the lime and the peat first thing.

    It can be topdressed, but best if you can scratch it in the top couple of inches. It will work its way down over time, a month or longer with regular waterings. It's slow, but beats the shit out of not adding it at all.

    I use dolomite simply because of cost, or rather, lack of cost. Here it is $4.50/40lb bag and a 1 mile drive. Last time I checked, a 40lb bag of OSF would run ~10x more, being $46 shipped to my door. Buy local, lime should be about the cheapest ingredient in your mix. Ag lime (calcitic lime), the equal of OSF shows up every few years (IDK why not regularly), and it runs ~$16 to $20/40lb bag. I'll snag a bag for my soil gardens to use instead of dolo, but like I said it's a once in a while thing.

    I have never seen the lockout or excess of Mg in a container mix. It CAN happen in a Mg rich soil garden or field, but the only Mg in container mixes is what's added. They aren't Mg rich to begin with. Pretty much an overblown non issue like the Au toxicity from using Azomite. It CAN happen, but when is the last time you've heard of it actually happening? Me either.

    I actually top dressed some bone meal this past season (pepper plants in 17gal no tills), and was amazed to see actual results in ~3 weeks or so. The plants were amazing too. Over 3' tall from a 4" Home Depot plant and scads of peppers. I would have sworn 2 - 3 months at least before ANY of tha P was available. I was pleasantly disabused of that notion.

    So, yes you can top dress bone meal, just allow 3 weeks at least in advance.

    I eyeball all my top dresses, but for the bone meal and gypsum both I would estimate I added ~2 to 3 Tbl for a 5 gallon bucket and a heavy 1/4cup for the 17 gal tubs. If you can, mixed with, or a top top dress of VC mixed with some kelp meal. I did it both with and without the VC top-top dress and both worked fine, the VC a bit faster if you have some.

    If you don't have one, starting a worm bin should be a priority. It goes way beyond being a game changer.
     
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  19. doesnt neem have P, and i think kelp does as well. maybe not as much idk. i never had deficiencies tho.
     
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  20. Me either, not with mj anyway. What went into the mix when made and, as you mentioned, the neem and kelp top dressings.

    Mainly, I just wanted to try it (top dressing), and that pepper plant was just really kicking, both with fruit and heavy/woody type growth. Wanted to see just how long it took to actually become available to the plant. The 3 weeks for a noticeable difference really surprised me, I was figuring on more like 6 weeks or longer.
     
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