I have 2 auto plants in 50 50 coco perlite that I am using the biotabs line with silicium flash instead of orgatrex. I have read different opinions on different websites. I was thinking of adding like 1 tbs per gallon of water like 1 time per week every week from week 1 to the end of the plant flowering on there. The nutrients are mixed into the coco. I only water with ph tap water on there. Do you think that is a good idea for the plants? I have read that molasses helps the microbes. Would there be any bad effects from adding molasses to plants? The plants would likely be on autopots but I would likely turn off the autopots 1 time per week to do the hand watering of the molasses water to it then turn the autopots back on. Would you give it the molasses more than 1 time per week? Would you not do it from week 1 or what weeks would you do it? The plants are 2 auto plants that likely harvest on week 10-12 from what I have read on there.
I'm interested in the answer myself. From what I've read/watched the molasses doesn't actually help the plant it helps the microbes in the soil, as you stated. I'm under the impression that there aren't really any microbes in coco, that it's basically a neutral medium for the roots to grab on to, sort of like rockwool, no microbes or nutrients in it. Unlike actual potting mix which is full of who knows what, but should have microbial life in it already but thrives on something like added sugars. Hope someone who knows can answer.
Just my opinion! And according to Scott Ostrander of nectar for the gods it kills your yields Sent from my SM-N960U using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Ya, he calls it smothering your bacteria with a lead blanket... But he's selling his own sugar in a bottle...
So, let me ask this question.... What do bacteria eat? I tried molasses in the last century, didn't work then and probably still doesn't work now. If you want a sugar why not use raw bee honey? It has 2 sugars plus bunches of other great stuff. Black strap molasses is the 3rd refining of the sugar, the reason it's black is because all you have left is minerals, there's virtually no sugar. If you want minerals there are other, less expensive, less hassle ways of doing it. BTW, if you do put your thumb on the scale and cause the bacteria population to explode you better keep a very close eye on your soil pH (remember bacteria don't eat, they secrete, and what they secrete are powerful acids, ergo the pH drops). File under: I'm bored
In regards to bacteria don't eat molasses, I suggest you take a look at microbeorganics.com. Tim has done a lot of research stating otherwise. P-
Most welcome! Tim is super knowledgeable and has done a ton of research on AACT's, etc. Whether people agree with adding teas or not, I think there is some valuable information on his site. P-
You really are determined to treat coco like soil mate arent you lol. Molasses is for soil growers. Theres nothing in the coco to feed on it so youll just be adding sugar to youre pot. Its an auto pot so no run off which means itll probably just build up too. After a month youll have x amount of doses of sugar in the coco. Not sure what effect that would have but seeing as were all telling you its a bad idea i know youll do it now so just let us know how it turns out.
Thanks. The pot would have beneficial microbes in it. I am using the biotabs line with bactrex on there. I am not going to add molasses though for now on there.
Fully just brought some molasses to try, soil grow though, starting to think if there any real gains in using it ..? Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I'm probably wrong but this is how the old guy understands the process regarding the cultivation of beneficial bacteria in your soil. Of the 90 elements necessary to grow a plant with a reasonable degree of success (meaning yield) let's just pick one. How about the Element Calcium, if you prefer we can use S or most P's. What causes Ca to go from an immobile element to mobile? Water?? Time?? I would put forth the proposition that it's the result of bacteria, very specific bacteria. In this case the bacteria is specific to Ca. If the bacteria were specific to S or (fill in the blank) then it would require a different bacteria. The Calcium solublizing bacteria come into contact with the element of Ca. At that point in time the bacteria says "Dinner is served" and it secretes a power combination of acids. And it's the effect of those acids on the Ca element which breaks the element down so it can turn into a source of food for the plant. So, in my world, the answer to the question I posed is: Bacteria don't eat. They secrete. As I said earlier, I could be wrong but I'm always keen on leaning more. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucky I didn't ask how starch turns into plant food. Or maybe I should. How does it?
The more important question is why they are even using coco to begin with, rather than a Living Organic Soil? Coco is fine for hydro though. Wet
Right I looked at that company and fuck that. Any company that has 20 different bottles is in it for the money. Not saying they are not good they just separate so you buy more shit. I have started using Humboldt county's own nutrient line their facilitie is in fortuna next town over. I only use 5 or 6 of their products. They have convinced me that their is no need for cal/mag only magnesium for bloom phase. Their 3 part solution has enough calcium. Also a family owned company which I like. Their product also barely has any residual salts. Almost clear when poured and barely need to adjust ph. Absolutely love this company. Edit: Oh also their 3 part solution they said is perfect enough with the killer tea. Each gallon of grow, micro, and bloom like $37. Like 2.5 gallons of their organic killer tea you can see through is like $80 I think may be wrong but much more affordable than say AN, BOT or Nectar.
And if you were paying attention on the site you wouldve spotted.... In the second paragraph.... "Our nutrients will never deliver exceptional yield" They actually warn you. Only time ive seen that haha