Dude, solder melting points are pretty damn high, and no little double A battery is going to put out enough heat to melt it. Besides, soldering is your only option to have a solid contact all the way around, which is important for even temps.
Soldering irons work by putting an electrical current through a tip which heats it up to the point where the solder melts. If a double A battery is sufficient enough to heat up a screen enough to vape weed you have no way of knowing for certainer it won't melt the solder.
Well your run of the mill solder melts around 370 degrees... And weed capes around 370 degrees. And given that solder has lead in it I'm going to say that would be a bit dangerous. Unless there is special high temp solder which doesn't have dangerous metals such as lead in it.
I would totally try this, especially if I could make it larger and plug into the wall, and just use a switch to flip the power on and off, making it the same concept as the original but it is a stationary unit.
Ever since I saw the launch box, I've been tracking these threads to see if somebody would figure out out to make their own. So far, I haven't seen anyone who actually got it to work. Being a seasoned diy'er with a full woodshop, I naturally set out to build my own. Here's what I've learned so far: 1) Pipe hangers from the hardware store work well as the conductors, though they are hard to bend (steel core) and some have a plastic coating that needs to be sanded off first 2) Regular stainless steel screen (like those found in strainers etc) does not seem to work. In checking the resistance of this material with a meter, it doesn't seem to have much at all, which I suspect is the reason for low-no heat generation. I confirmed that it is not a battery issue by using NiCr resistance wire from a hobby store. This material is typically using in bag sealers and foam cutters and is easy to find in various gauges. The wire does indeed get quite hot with just a rechargeable AA. Various attempts at weaving this wire or otherwise using it instead of a screen failed. My conclusion is that the Launch Box uses a very fine NiCr screen material, not stainless as stated in their materials. I could be wrong, but I don't think stainless will get you there. NiCr screen is available in large sheets or rolls from metal supply houses. It's too expensive to buy a roll for the 2" square piece you would need. 3) By the time you figure out how to do it, you will likely have spent more than if you just go out and buy one. All credit to the folks at Magic Flight, this is a sweet little gadget that I'm sure will evolve over time and only get better. First class tinkering! If I'm way off base on any of this, or if you've gotten your own design to work based on this AA concept, please post pics and detailed materials lists. .....and it was so easy to make a bong.......
Don't you just love making your own pieces? You get that feeling of achievement when you make something that nobody tried.
So has anybody been successful in the creation of one of these things? How does it work? How would you compare it with the real deal? ps. I quote : "The Box makes careful use of infra-red characteristics in its design." http://www.vaporpedia.com/wiki/Magic-Flight_Launch_Box#The_Launch_Box_is_a_conduction_vaporizer.2C_how_can_it_be_efficient.3F How can you do that with your Launch Box?
i wish i knew how to make one im just to dumb to figure out how to heat up the screen and all of that stuff
Did you have any luck finishing yours?? I have my completely built (several actually) but i cannot get the screen hot enough, if you press the screen really hard against the copper rod it gets too hot to touch but wont stay that way. I used like 14ga copper rods as the electrodes and am wondering if this could be the problem? I also tried soldering the stainless steel screen to the rods but now it wont get hot at all.
you should just try to get a screen thats big enough and wrap it around the coil that surrounds it, like literally wrap around the metal rods that are surrounding it
post some pictures up when you get it made, i have one that i grabbed from my local headshop the dragon down in toronto, and i love it, very portable and easy to use
I WILL ATTEMPT AND SUCCEED at making this mflb i have never worked with wood i have never worked with electrical stuff BUT I TOOK PHYSICS IN HIGH SCHOOL so if you will please, i would like to have a list of everything the original magic flight company uses to create their product and links to the pieces i need, amazon preferred so heres what magic flight uses 1 copper plated steel coil or somethin like that 1 2 in" square of very fine mesh screen 1 wood chisel and thats it thank you please just quote me and give me the links bye!
Would the mesh screen work that you can get for you bowls that are like 5 for $1 or something cheap like that??
no i dont think those are big enough or even have enoughh resistance i dont even think they are fine(smallest holes) enough, the one on the mflb has almost an almost non see through screen
Trying this friday to make mine, one thing im uncertain about is how do i get all the copper wire inside of a block of wood? is it hollow? I plan on lining the edge of the wood with the copper wire on the "straight" side, and where it "loops" i have no idea what to do. how do they loop it to a battery size, in a block of wood?!
someone should start working on making their own power adapter so that we dont have to buy one for 60 dollars