Distance to run Quantum Boards

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by 4ala2sk0a, Mar 22, 2018.

  1. Good day; just had a simple question for the LED professionals; what distance from your plant tops can you run your boards?

    I know wattage matters, so I will use my situation for an example.

    I have 4 132QB that are ran at 50 watts a piece. How close can I get without damage, what distance is recommended?

    I'm asking because I'm building a fixture that incorporates a 400 watt HID in the center of the fixture; I'm not sure if I should sink the sodium a little below the QB, or above.

    I don't have my boards yet, so I haven't been able to figure it out myself. Thanks
     
  2. Well I just mounted it so the bulb would be even with the boards.

    Figured it wouldn't hurt to show the fixture I made. I will show it again when its complete
     

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  3. It really depends on how large the plants are and what strain. After you grow several strains for a while you'll find that they have vastly different light tolerances. Sativa dominant plants are hard to burn but some indica plants don't like the light very close at all.

    I would start seedings or small plants about 3 feet from those high output leds you have. If they can tolerate it work the light down slowly to about 18". There's really no need to run closer then that in veg. In flower if the plant can take it you can go down as low as 12-14". That is really strain dependent. 18"-24 is safe. That's a good rule of thumb with these lights. I don't think you'll get too much stretch at those lengths and you'll get good growth without stress.

    Watch for the leaves doing this. If you see this condition move the lights up a few inches.
    [​IMG]

    Part of becoming a good grower is learning the language of the plant. This is the plant telling you to back the light off. The leaves will tell you many other things if you learn to listen. =)
     
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  4. Well that sounds good then, sounds like maybe the bulb socket should be sunk below the plane of the boards, possibly mounted vertical also.

    I have been growing a strain called Medusa/ Medusa Big Bud, can't remember.
    I am planing on growing 10 In 5 gallon smart pots; in my custom organic soil mix; in a 4x4 space.
    I want to start a journal when I get it all fired up.

    Currently I can get okay yields, but I have recently invested in quality ingredients and am hoping for better results this time! Heres two plants about 7 weeks under a 400HPS in a parabolic reflector. Water only.

    Your very helpful Tbone, thanks again.
     

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  5. You fit 10 in a 4x4? I've never flowered that many. Most times I flower 4 and I've also done 3,2 and now a single plant. Highest yield is with 4. This is 3. I got 23 oz's and 8oz's of larf.
    IMG_8831.JPG
     
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  6. I typically grow fewer plants to larger sizes, but I'm trying more smaller plants to reduce vegetation time. Electric rate it damn near 0.50...0.050? Cents a kilowatt hour.... Their all clones so 16-20 inch tall plants pinched once or twice before flip should pack the space.
     
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  7. #7 4ala2sk0a, Mar 23, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2018
    Typically I would run four, something like this. I had two clones stunt really bad and had sombody give me a couple extras to replace them; the two in front.
    I have proceeded to grow fewer larger plants, but want to start fresh with a new plan.
     

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  8. you are wasting so much energy from that light that never gets to your plants.
     
  9. About 11cents per KW hour here in SE.
     
  10. Are you meaning the sodium or the reflector?

    I'm definitely looking to improve efficiency.

    Parabolic reflectors work great in a space the same size as the reflector itself.
     
  11. QB's are best ran in a tent because they do spread light very wide. They make reflectors for the qb260's and some of the other fixtures. There's a review video on the reflectors they raise the ppfd by 150-200 points depending on the spot in the layout.
     
  12. I just got my hands on a piece of 1-2 millimeter thick galvanized plate I was going go drill and cut into heat sinks, then mount the board to the plate.

    The plates are bigger that the boards and figured with a polish and a few relief cuts they could be bent to form a small "rectangular reflector" around each board.
     
  13. Wipe them with vinegar to clean off assembly oil and spray them with white high temp engine paint. They'll hold up fine like that and the white will make a better reflector.
     
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  14. I have QB120 pairs fairly close to these AK48 and Wonder Woman 5 weeks into bloom- they seem to tolerate them close
     

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  15. I keep trying to post photoes of the heatsinks and fixture but in having issues.

    I do have a question; my driver has two output, one is labled as dim. I assume you use just one of these?
     
  16. Well one is actual output and the other one is dim.
    Dim is NOT an output, it's used to dim lights, depending on your driver you will have 0-10v or 1-10v or PMW dimmer support. Just look in the manual/internet and get correct dimmer.

    That way u can lower the lights and use the dimmer and save money and it will run more efficient.
     
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  17. Cased Potentiometer with Knob
     
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  18. Thank you for the information.

    I made this thread some time ago before I really knew anything about circuits. Things are in a whole different ballpark these days for me.
     
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  19. Hey guys, i setup this board today. I bought it from R2T. Its 240w for 2.6x2.6 tent.
    I was using a 400 hps before and now my plants are in the second week of flowering.
    I setup the board at 12'' from the plants and using the 75% aprox of the total wattage.
    I want to know if i setup correctly the board or not really.
    Thanks.
     

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  20. Looks good to me. I like all the added blues and reds. What diodes are the whites, reds and blues? Did it say on manual that came with it? I really like this MARS TS-1000 they have had out for couple months.. Crisp white color thats a blend of light from 3000k-5000k plus 18 added 660nm reds. 150 watts is what they rate max watts. All tho i get 163 watts on my meter? But i got 8 qb132's cranked to max or lottle higher honestly. Then mars at max. All 9 boards are on a 4x4 fixture i made diy. But i got them bout 10inches away . sum tops r even closer. No burn or bleaching yet. My hlgs are 4 in 2700k 4 in 3000k. The mars looks like a more veggn tone but its in middle of fixture. Beleave it or not but under the mars my plants are more glittery than hlg. And another thing i noticed is under hlg 2700k-3000k my plants stretched more. Next round i wanna flower under like a 4000k. Im supposed to get to b a tester for the new mars ts2000 which is same as my light tbe ts1000 but at 300 true watts and bigger board. Then the other company thats supposed to let me test is a company called HGL. SIMILAR to hlg. pcb boards but 80 watts and not sure on what kelvin tone either. HGL was the first company to produce or come up with the whole( quantum) lights idea. Im pretry sure thats what they told me a other forum. HLG has been around for 3yrs. HGL started in 2010 . its funny how similiar the names are to each other, but i know now what company originally started quantums. Just sum things i thought id share info. If plants can handle more light, then either crank light up higher or lower until they show start signs of not liking it.. Only way i run my lights full blast is if theres air blowing across backsides . if no fan then id turn em down but allways good idea have flow over em. Thx for ur pic heres that mars just to show its kinda like yours✌
     
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