Deficiency, lockout, burn?

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by BudDelight, Jul 23, 2019.

  1. Hi everyone! Thanks for taking the time to read this post and help a brother out. I also posted this in the sick plant forum, but thought it would be ok to cross post here as I’m brand new. I’m a first time grower and all things considered, everything is going fairly well . I have been noticing some odd colorations on my plants and after doing countless hours of research I think I’m more unsure than I was before. Quick intro to the grow. 5 weeks from germ. Grown under California SolarSystem 1100. 4 pot xl auto pot using FF hydro nutes and GH Calmag. Substrate is 50/50 coco perlite and the strain is trainwreck. Running half strength fox farm nutes and full strength calmag. Starting with RO water, after nutes my ppms are about 750. I ph the reservoir down to 5.5 at the beginning of the week and let it raise till about 6.3, then ph down again. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Could really use some advices from a more experienced grower. Me love you long time
     
  3. #3 PhenoMorph, Jul 23, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2019
    Possible P deficiency.

    Overly dark green older leaves, some rust spotting, and the red/purple/maroon leaf stems and interveins, and a slight 'puckered lip' look to the leaf like your lips get puckered eating too many sunflower seeds, all that combined together leads me in the P direction.

    P usually starts with older leaves going a real dark green, almost blue. They will start to look burned or rusted in spots, usually where light is more intense on their surface. Often when an older leaf decides to go, parts of it will still be dark green and the part lit up more with be yellow.

    As the P deficiency gets worse, you will see a general cholorosis, dull green creep up the entire plant. If you missed all the indicators, and only were to judge based on yellow leaves you might think N.

    Often, the biggest, most healthy looking plant early on is the one that gets hit the hardest with a P deficiency when flowering really kicks in after around weeks 3-4.

    It looks very much like my plants did as they were having P issues. I solved it by tea-ing mineralized phosphate and rubbing a scoop into the top inch or so of my soil so it waters down. It took a while but eventually I slowed the deficiency enough to make it to the finish line.

    P is best available for the plant between pH 6 and 7. If you are starting down around 5.5 that could explain the issue. Try P rich @ 6.3 to 6.5'ish, water to runoff.

    I'm confused as to your setup with the bubbler and the lines yet you have soil up top, never seen those before.....hard to feel confident suggesting a solution when I am not sure what's going on there.....but that's my 2¢
     
  4. Thanks for the input. It’s an bottom feed autopot system. The res it outside the tent and feeds through the lines into the individual containers. The air pump you see is hooked to airdromes at the bottom of the substrate. People seem to have good success with them. Only problem I have is that top watering is bad as salts build up in the upper 2 inches of soul and watering from above washes them further into the root ball
     
  5. I hear you. I actually use a 3 rope, bottom draw wick system for my plants and I try to only top water them if I really have to as wick draw is slow. Bottom draw also keeps soil compaction down.
    Don't top feed then, but it does seem to be P deficiency, however you have to give them some love. I would try a bit higher pH myself, but I am used to soil. That might be all it needs to free up the P
     

Share This Page