custom stealth grow box help?

well i am pretty new myself but am working within similar constraints. check out my sig.

i would suggest a high power cfl light such as this one. 200W Sunblaster 120V 6400K CFL Bulbs | Residential/Commercial Energy Saving Lights

you would need a 6500k and a 2700k. so 2 bulbs total.

for venting you could find some ball bearing 120mm or 180mm pc fans. you would need 2 of these at the least. one for intake and one for exhaust.

for the smell there are many many great guides on here for DIY carbon scrubbers. here are a few links to diff ones.

http://forum.grasscity.com/general-indoor-growing/273604-small-carbon-filter-diy.html
http://forum.grasscity.com/grow-roo...cheap-easy-efficient-diy-carbon-scrubber.html

if you look there are others that may work better for you. but these should help give you a start.

is the box already made or just going to use the space thats there and have the door lightproof? pics of the grow area would help a lot.

 

I just built a slightly larger version of this. I am also a carpenter with a small amount of cabinetmaking experience. Allow me to help out if I may, as much as I can without actually being there, or being able to draw stuff up on the computer.

You have your size limits. Thats a good start but dont grab that saw just yet. The cabinet will need a top and a face frame. The best all around material for most of the cabinet will be 5\8"-3\4" plywood. By the time you are done, you will probably need three sheets (4'X8'). Out of those three 4'X8' sheets, you SHOULD have enough wood material to build the entire cabinet. Select sheets that are as free from surface defects, such as knots and cracks, as possible. You will also need plenty of 1-1\4" wood screws.

As for tools, you will need at least a jigsaw in the line of power saws. (A table saw will be very helpful or also a circular saw. The only one you really NEED is the jigsaw.) You will also need a power drill with several different sizes of bits, including one that will drill a hole large enough to fit a jigsaw blade. You will also need a pocket hole drill bit and jig, such as the one shown here, which I have. General Tools Professional Pocket Hole Jig Kit - 849 at The Home Depot
Clamps are your friend. You may also want to go for a belt sander, which is great for finishing AND correcting mistakes. A square and tape measure are absolutely essential.

You will now be able to begin laying out this cabinet. Whether you are doing this to scale, on the wood itself, or as a simple sketch, be sure to have straight lines that are square to each other and use a pencil so you can correct mistakes. The dimensions\cutting list that I came up with off the top of my head to build a cabinet the size you need are as follows.

OUT OF THE 3\4" PLYWOOD (If you use 5\8" thick stuff, these numbers WILL change. Feel free to consult me on this.):
2 sides 35-1\4" by 35-1\4"
1 top 36" by 36"
1 back 36" by 36"
1 bottom 33-1\2" by 34-1\2"
1 door There are many ways to go about the door, which I will cover later. A size that will give you a good door using any of these methods is about 35" by 35"
(A) 2 strips 1" by 32-1\2" (back nailers)
(B) 2 strips 2" by 34-1\2" (top nailers)
(C) 4 strips 2" by 32-1\2" (face frame nailers and bottom nailers)
(D) 2 strips 2" by 35-1\4 (face frame vertical parts)
(E) 2 strips 2" by 32" (face frame horizontal parts)

BE CAREFUL AND SAFE WHEN USING POWER TOOLS. KNOW WHAT YOUR TOOLS CAN AND CANNOT DO AND KEEP THEM IN GOOD SHAPE. MEASURE ACCURATELY AT LEAST TWICE BEFORE CUTTING ANYTHING. KEEP EVERYTHING SQUARE AND STRAIGHT. USE STRAIGHT EDGES CLAMPED IN PLACE TO GUIDE HAND HELD POWER SAWS WHENEVER POSSIBLE.

On to the cabinet assembly:
1. Attach a back nailer (A) to each side with screws. Make sure these are perfectly flush with the tops of the sides and the backs of the side.

2. Attach the back to these nailers in the sides using screws. Screw through the nailers and into the back.

3. Attach a bottom nailer (C) to each side with screws, making sure it is perfectly flush with the bottom and the front.

4. Attach the bottom to these nailers by putting screws through the bottom into the nailers.

5. Attach the top nailers (B) perpendicular to the sides using pocket screws. The exact location is up to you since you can later hang stuff from these if you want to. Just make sure they are flush with the top of the sides and far enough (2") away from the front so that the face frame nailers can be installed in the next step.

6. The face frame nailers (C) need several pocket screw holes cut into them facing one of the long edges so that the face frame can be attached later.

7. Attach the face frame nailers with the edge with the pockets you just drilled flush with the front of the cabinet.

8. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the face frame horizontal pieces (E).

9. Assemble the face frame by attaching the vertical pieces (D) to the horizontals, keeping the horizontals flush to the top and bottom of the verticals. Use the pocket holes you made in the last step for this. You should end up with something that looks like a big picture frame.

10. Attach the face frame to the cabinet using pocket screws in the pockets already drilled in the face frame nailers.

11. Now on to the door. Your best bet is to hang it with hinges if space allows the door to swing open. If this is impossible, use magnets and those grabber thingys you see on some cabinet doors and make a pull-off door. You definitely want to be able to lock the cabinet so keep that in mind. You will need one lock if the door is hinged and two if the door pulls off. Put weatherstripping around the border of the door so no light or air can escape.

12. Attach the top by screwing through the top nailers.

You will now be ready to fit out the cabinet to make it suitable for growing. I hope I helped. Let me know if you have further questions about the cabinet construction. There are also plenty of sources on the web about cabinet construction and use of the tools. Especially useful, if you can find them, are exploded views, sections and details. I thought out this cabinet so that it could be built with a minimum of required specialty tools.

Now if youll excuse me, I gotta go get blazed.