Summer DIY Project 1.5(w)x60(l)x1.5m(h) custom built cabinet. Split in half,with one half having two sections the lower section being taller (80cm & 70cm). The whole thing is going to be sealed and each section its own micro climate.controlled by a thermo hygrostat,tubular heater,humidifier and variable speed fan. I want to run it dwc and I'm going to build some 65x55x10cm pots/tanks with sections for pumps and small aquarium heaters.each pot connects to an 8 hose air pump 4to the bottom of the medium and 4 to outlets in the tank. Lighting Veg:240w blackstar led Flower 1 : 270w blackstar led Flower 2 : 600w a/c ups Per section : 2 x uvb bulb(spectrum matched) Ventilation 4 x 6 inch variable speed extractor fans. 8 x 6inches inlet vents. (will negative pressure be enough ?do I need intakes ?) Mylar ling the inside and building locks into the two front doors with power and vents at the back, with vents tubed out of the roof window. The vague plan is that I want to try and perpetually harvest every 4 weeks or so.the cabinet would run scrog and the you rotate the whole tank when you need to change cycle . As I said I want to try and perpetually cycle and hopefully max yields. If anyone has an tips ideas to either improve or better use the space /increase quality or yields that would be greatly appreciated.
Hi there! I'm interested to learn more about how the thermo hygrostat works for you. And I can't help but mention that I'm skeptical. Only because of my own experience building sealed rooms. You mention that the box will be sealed, but you also mention a fan exhaust. Do you want a sealed environment, or vented? I would suggest going vented, as sealed brings about a huge array of other problems (heat, humidity, condensate, CO2, mold, etc.) Venting your grow is important to remove excess heat and humidity. Just as important, it will draw in fresh air from the room, including CO2. The goal here being to replace the air inside the cabinet with air from the room. Because of this, you definitely want a passive intake. Since the plants will receive CO2 via their stomata (on the underside of the leaves) it's best to have the flow of fresh air come from below the plants and exhaust the cabinet at the top. If you ventilate properly, and the room containing your cab is properly controlled, I don't think there's a need for cooling/dehumidifying mechanisms. If so, you should control the environment of the room, not the cabinet. I should also ask what the aquarium heaters are for. Unless you live in an extremely cold climate, I don't think you'll need aquarium heaters for your DWC. Your nutrient temperature should be 68F in a DWC. At least below 70. The reservoir will tend to heat up (from the lights) more so than cool inside a closed environment. Because of this, I would actually recommend running Hempy buckets inside your cabinet. Then you don't have to worry about nutrient temps so much. Neat grow idea, I can't wait to see how it turns out.
Thanks for the advice man I meant sealed apart from the in and outtakes.the exractors on full replace the air in the cabinet 12.5 times a minute. I was thinking clay pebbles and rockwool for the rooting ?the heaters where there so I can guarantee temp of the pots as most of my grows over The thermohygrostat is there to turn up the fan if the humidity or temp gets to high.also works with the space heater for the air if its too cold. The only section with a humidifier would be the veg section as that's when I've read they need a higher humidity ?