Edit: So apparently this driver will not push 4 COBs, but I can hook up 3 and they function properly. Though I am sure others have. Anyone familiar with the Meanwell know if maybe I needed to grab the b version so I could dim more than the 50% to trigger all 4 to work? This version will go from 50-100, I had planned to run all 4 at 50%. Original Hi, so I decided I wanted to build a DIY Led COB light following the great tutorials on here. When hooked up the light is barely on, and moving the dimmer does nothing. It appears as though a candle has been lit. I thought it may be too much grease by the connection to the heatsink so removed and applied with less paste. I also swapped drivers as I have two on hand, and new wires from the same spool, so not sure what is wrong. Below is the setup 4 X Cree CXB3590-35G-CD-NOH-00001 XLamp CXB Series Led (Believe this is 36v) 1 Meanwell HLG-185H-C1400A 2 Ft Heatsink from Heatsink USA I drilled the heatsink, and attached the Cob/cob holders with some thermal paste and self tapping screws. Hooked up the driver/lights as follows: Driver green/yellow stripe wire to ext cord grounding wire Driver blue wire to ext cord neutral wire Driver brown wire to ext cord live wire For the lights, the red wire from the driver goes into the + port on the 1st cob holder, then a wire goes from the - port of the 1st cob holder to the + port of the next holder. This is repeat in series so the last cob - connects the black wire of the driver. So it doesnt seem to be the driver, or the thermal grease connection to the heatsink. I also used new wire from the same spool. Should I buy wire elsewhere just in case, or try a different extension cord replacement to solder to driver? Would 1 bad cob make them all react like this? All 4 cobs light up. I can take a pic but there isnt much to show, seems like it should just work. THANKS
You have to know for sure what the voltage is on the lights. You've got a voltage issue from the input (power source) to the load (light) more than likely. They're wired in a series or a loop. Likely, it's either in a wrong application from the 120 v. drivers to the possibly 36v lights for them to not burn bright. A lot of things are possible. Not familiar with the particular equipment you're working with though. I don't believe there is any voltage on the heat sinks where the paste could cause a short, etc. You should have had or need to find a wiring diagram or schematic to use to wire it by....wiring diagram. I am no electrician, but my husband is a master electrician with over 40 years in the biz. He's not worked with LED lighting too much, but by the way you describe your problem here, he feels pretty sure that that is where your problem is coming from. You've got to make sure about the voltage of the lights and that you've got adequate power getting to them through the driver. Hope this helps. I need to buy the stuff and make him put me one together so I have a better idea of how they work and what they're all about. LOL Good luck. TWW
Additional info, I bought these a long time ago, but from the part number provided I am pretty sure they are 36v. Here is a link to Cobs from Kingbrite, I think these are what I have but the numbers differ in order slightly CXB3590-0000- 000N0HCD35G(3000K 35G CD 36V) Pretty sure I have these CXB3590-0000- 000R0HCD35G(3000K 35G CD 72V) Not these Link to Cree Page For drivers, I read: "72v x 4cobs on hlg-185h-c700a or 36v x 4cobs on hlg-185hc-1400a" are the same thing. from the GC DIY Help Thread "These have a maximum draw of 137W each with a maximum current of 3.6A or 3600mA and a forward voltage of 36Vdc. So to power these super high powered COBs we need drivers capable of 36v x 3 COBs = 108Vdc. The drivers should also be able to operate at about 1.8A or 1800mA. I do appreciate the comments. I believe the equipment is correct, due to similar comments online. Could be user error, im no expert at soldering but I am sufficient enough. I read through a Realstyles thread that was 45 pages and between that and google have not seen anyone with this problem. I think I could plug in just 2 cobs, to verify that it is not the Cobs, but don't want to overload anything. Can anyone confirm this would NOT be a bad idea.
I'm just reading your first post wondering why your heatsink would be connected to live power? For the fans? It makes sense but you didn't specify. If there's not fans to power you definitely don't want live electricity hooked to your heat sink.
Ha yeah I meant driver, after typing about drilling the heatsink it was still on my mind. I will probably add a fan though that shouldn't affect the output like this as there isn't even time for them to heat up, its just instantly dim. Plus I believe people use a passive (fanless) setup with these big heat sinks.
I haven't researched this setup but from what you're saying the cobs are hooked up in series? That doesn't seem right. Maybe I'm wrong but I would really expect them to be wired in parallel where + and - from each cob connect together then all to the driver together. Wired in a ladder structure, not in a row. Parallel supplies them all with the same voltage. When wired in series the first light will receive full voltage and the next light will receive whatever the first didn't consume. I would expect them to not all be the same brightness wired like this. In series one failure would also cause a failure of all the lights which probably wouldn't happen in parallel.
Holy hell these things are bright, I have so many spots in my eyes now. I can confirm 2 hooked up work properly, so I will try a few combos to determine where the problem lies....as soon as I can see what I am doing. Edit: So apparently this driver will not push 4 COBs, but I can hook up 3 and they function properly. Though I am sure others have. Anyone familiar with the Meanwell know if maybe I needed to grab the b version so I could dim more than the 50% to trigger all 4 to work? This version will go from 50-100, I had planned to run all 4 at 50%.
Sounds like a driver issue the HLG-185H-C1400A should run 4 CXB 36v with no problems. Where did you get the driver from?
Thanks for confirming, the more I read the more confident I was that this should work as is. Both COBs and Drivers were from Jerry/kingbrite but I bought them months ago. I do have 2 of the same driver and both do the same thing so I am less inclined to lean towards the driver. Maybe I should try the setup with different wire? I bought some generic 18 gauge single copper wire at frys but I dont see why it wouldnt work. Thanks
Well it's not the wire because I use the same from Fry's lol. Did you make sure the driver is turned up? I buy from Jerry all the time get at me on Sype we can talk for free if you have a mic for your computer. My name is the same REALSTYLES and I'll try my best to help you.
Great, thank you sir. Let me do a few tweaks here and there so I know where I stand, prior to wasting your time, but that will be a huge help, I am no electrician, but this is fairly simple and now I am just confusing myself haha. I assume it is no problem to hook up the COBs without heatsink/grease for a few seconds to verify they turn on bright, and then turn them off. If this is correct I would like to try the other COBs I have, as I have two sets and could make sure 1 of the COBs on the light is not acting abnormal. It will probably be a few days before I can pick up some grease/paste. I will wire that light up and see what my results are and then let you guys know...appreciate the help greatly.
Crazy those things run in series. I took some electrical classes. That doesn't make a lot of sense but I guess it's correct.
Yes I was going to comment on that, as I have read that parallel is NOT recommended with this type of setup, and can actually be dangerous. I will post up a couple pics but its basically a direct copy of Realstyles lights. Here is where I stand: 4 different Cobs and different holders - same problem. Can rules those out. Again, tried 2 different drivers so can most likely rule those out, but bought at same time so could have been a bad batch. What hasn't been replaced: Extension cord I soldered the driver to, will get my hands on another
You need to measure the voltage across the COB that is not lighting up - do you have access to a DVM?