Been growing outdoors for years no problem started an indoor grow, now about 5 weeks into flower started in March from seed, and am seeing what I believe to be interveinal necrosis and now some minor chlorosis too but can't seem to find any photo that looks even close nor any actionable info regarding my issues. All on mid to upper fan leaves. The first pic was an already damaged leaf, I know I don't have bugs, ph run off is testing around 6-7, about the same as the water going in. I did accidentally cause a little nute burn a while back but the plant has been highly resistant to nute burn where just the very tiny tips of a leaf turn yellowish, and since then, nutes have been tapered back or temporarily stopped all together. I am running a Mars hydro reflector 96*5w LEDs 207w draw or so. Only thing I know for sure could be an issue is the room peaks at 105degF but usually stays between 77-85 maybe 89. So anyone have an idea of what's going on? What could cause the issues in the pics below? Any help or info would be greatly appreciated thanks
mmk thanks just never seen nutes burn quite like this, in the past it was always major burn on the ends leading to a dead leaf, not anything in between the veins like this
I did forget to add that the burn was from ~3 weeks ago and this started showing up without nutes just ph neutral water last week and has spread slightly since
If you're new growth looks good without the veining that you have in the pics above, don't worry about it. Most likely it was just your over enthusiasm with the plant food. But if it's on the new growth, you've actually got an issue and likely a deficiency of some sort. During flower, the plant needs more of some nutrients than others. But you're in the home stretch and it's not anything terribly bad. Back off the nutes period. Chances are, you've fed it enough for 2 lifetimes judging by the dark green color of the leaves in the picture. They should be a rich blue/green color instead of that flat dark green...but that's nitrogen. Just water your plants with plant water and unless you see the new growth start to fade out in color...going a yellow green, you're probably good on the nutes. Nutes are just plant food and they only need what they need. Pouring in nutes does not make the indoor grown plant produce the fat dense buds we're all shooting for. The quality and strength of light your plants grow under throughout their entire lives, but especially during the flower cycle, is the determining factor on the bud quality and plant growth overall. The better lighting you provide for your plant, the more your plant will reward you...so it's something that you really can't skimp on. Each plant needs adequate wattage without being crowded out by other plants. The plant should be able to relax and open up to allow as much light as possible to penetrate the canopy of the plant to get as much bud development below the tops as possible. Otherwise, everything below the tops is just scrap. You don't mention your method of indoor growing, but I'm going to assume you're using soil. The quality of the soil you use will determine when and the amount of nutes your plants actually need. The better grade of soil you can give them, the better they're going to grow. We use Roots Organics Original and it's insanely expensive, but worth every penny I pay for it in my opinion. In a 10 week cycle, I can take a clone and get to almost 4 ft. high with as many tops as I want. By the time it actually begins to flower after a week or so under the flower lighting schedule, they'll be over 5 ft. tall. That soil I use is a big part of it too. I don't give any nutes at all until a couple of weeks before the plants go into the flower room and only at 1/4 strength. When I start the nutes, I give them every time I water...at 1/4 strength. When they actually are showing buds, I switch over to the flowering version of the nutes I use and continue them up until I harvest...no flush, no nothing. I use a powder plant food called "Jack's" made by J.R. Peters. A friend in California who is a medical grower turned me onto it a few years ago. It makes those expensive multi-bottle liquid nute combos ridiculous. I mix my feed up in 5 gallon buckets and it used to take me days with the liquid nutes just to get the mix ready. With this stuff, I can mix up and pH a 5 gallon bucket in less than 2 minutes and it's about maybe 1/10th the price of the liquid nutes. It's plant food...nothing complicated. LOL These nute makers have gotten people convinced that they can't grow large plants and nice buds unless you pour them full of chemicals, but that's not the case. You can because I do. LOL Learning to grow a plant inside is obviously different from the way it's done outside. With an indoor plant, the drainage of the soil is super important because a plant growing in soil doesn't like it's roots just constantly sitting in moisture. The good grow soils are about 30-40% perlite and the plants love that. So if you're using a box store soil, you'll need to amend it with perlite to a mix like that. It needs to be so light and arid that unless you water very slowly, the water will just dump through the container and out into the drain tray. Never water until they're dead dry and give them the best light you can manage to put over them and that's about it. But it'll take you some time to conquer the learning curve and sort it all out. By the time you run a couple through, you'll have a much better idea of the whole thing and be able to start improving on your methods. Best of luck. TWW
Thanks so much for the info, I am using some omri rated soil (no time release nutes) mixed with a good amount of perlite, for nutes I was using some fox farms but never more than 1/4 the recommend dose till the burn trying out their 0-50-30 beastie blooms or something for what I thought would be and is decidedly now the only flower feeding its gonna get. In a shower the plant's almost 6ft tall currently filling up wall to wall, and since seed it has always had a very dark green color, even the 20 or so clones I had taken, being grown in different mediums by different people all look like they have too much N but are growing healthy but dark which I just attributed to a unique phenotype, I even have one clone outside never been fed, in the same soil and is darker green but never any clawing while those inside actually look like they are lacking the way some leaves are yellowing off any they only have ever seen a single dose of a nute like a month and a half ago. I have always been one for a single feed in veg and another in flower but that's always been outdoors and even still I'm very judicious with nutes only feeding after I feel the soil should be lacking e.g. weeks at a time but I'm using a pretty gigantic pot with decent soil so I never thought she needed much just some minor soil amendments like lime or humic acid. Also talking with growers I personally know who have been doing this since long before I was born haven't ever seen nute burn present quite like this. Guess since y'all think burn it may be time to try out a different soil mix then, cause as much as I want to, I have learned the hard way about feeding and over feeding long ago.
Her is your problem calcium deficiency Looks like you are low on more nutes than just calcium IMO kick the nutes up a bit
Didn't you read this? " nutes have been tapered back or temporarilystopped all together" "always been one for a single feed in veg and another in flower but that's always been outdoors and even still I'm very judicious with nutes only feeding after I feel the soil should be lacking e.g. weeks at a time" "For nutes I was using some Fox Farm but never more than 1/4 the recommended strength" This certainly doesn't sound like over enthusiasm to me. J
It hasn't much new growth currently the spots are on the older leaves but unlike any natural "dying off" I have seen in previous years, it ends up being much too uniform and specific to between the veins and I'm starting to think temps may be my issue since some leaves are crunchy and/or curling up but the interveinal spots just keep bugging me its also only claw-ing on the affected leaves