Could someone please help

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by BenjaminLinus, Nov 27, 2014.

  1. I have 3 seeds I got from the UK they are: blueberry bliss, sourdiesel, and THC bomb, all 3 are autoflowers. I have a 3'x6' grow tent that's lined with reflective material oh yeah it's 4 ft tall, I also have a 400w MH. Light, and another 150w hm sun system light, and 5, 6ft long T5 light's, and a 45w led grow panel. I'm using three 3 gallon smart pots with happy frog soil Out of all of this which lights should I use? And could these 3 plants grow in that space? If so what kind of yield should I expect? I have a couple fans is heat going to be a huge issue? . I'm really just trying to grow some personal nothing elaborate. Any suggestions are very welcome. I have been reading for weeks..
     
  2. they can grow in that space if you lst them. never done those strains but ive got autos reaching 1.5m high
     
    also those lights, t5 for seedling mh for veg. you need a flower spectrum unless the led is flower spec ?
     
    my suggestion: use led all way through (full spectrum), but I just love led. also if you don't wanna try lst you can fit 6 plants in a smaller tent but 2m height
     
  3. So I shouldn't just run the 400mh, all 4 t5s and led panel all together? The led panel seems cheap.
     
  4. #4 oldskoolstoner, Nov 27, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 27, 2014
    you could if heat build up not an issue, but you would still need something for flower spectrum. such as hps, red cfl, led ....
     
    EDIT: veg needs blue light and flower needs red light. you can mix combinations of as much light as you want, but more light = more heat to get rid of
     
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  5. As I look through my lights I realize the 150w is hps not a mh. Would that be enough with the t5s to flower of I use the 400w to veg
     
  6. the rule I always worked by is 100 wats per plant
     
    and in veg have mostly veg colour (with your lights the t5 and mh) and in flower mostly flower spec (assuming you led is flower spectrum) the hps, led and t5. if the led is full spectrum then just hps and led, but then you short about 100wats (will still work, just yield less)
     
  7. Thanks for your help. The led is only a grow panel 45. It is for flower but cheap.
     
  8. should be ok then, try it and find out :)
     
    personally id say sell all those lights, and get a mars2 led. im getting amazing results from the 700wat, a few growers are using the 400wat 1200wat and even a 1600wat
     
    I wanna upgrade to the 1600wat after new year^^ it still amazes me every grow :)  They cheap in price and made in china, but they are very good lights (as good as ones 3 times the price) and ship all over the world. look on this site for mars-hydro they a sponsored seller and have a thread or google them
     
    plus with led they last 10+ years, mh and hps have to be replaced every 3 months? so led in long run also cheaper
     
  9. Natural sunlight is 128,000 lux at ground level.
     
    a 1,000 watt HID provides 92,000 at 1 inch from the emitter (bub core).
     
    Light falls off as an inverse square function. What you measure at one meter, you show 25% losses at 2 meters. Between emitter and 1 meter mark, you lose in the neighborhood of 19% of emitter rating.

    This is somewhat altered by use of reflection, reflecting hoods, etcetera, but those all have inherent inefficiencies and change the distance the light travels from bulb to point you're measuring at...so I generally ignore them, though in actual fact it's enough to drive a 1,000 watt HID's intensity at footprint to near sunlight intensity in the direct footprint of the light/hood assembly.
     
    But there's no such thing as "heatless light", yet, so you have inefficiencies, expressed as heat. The higher your true wattage, the more heat you're producing. HOW much depends on the efficiency of the type of system you're using.
     
     
     
    Comparing LEDs and HIDs is really "not fair", at this point, as lux and PAR are two very different terms....so an LED may put out 4 times as much 650 nm red-orange as an "equally rated" in terms of watts HID...but there are gaps in the spectrum between the 650-800 nanometer bandwidth range that is the red to red-orange spectrum plants use on that end....makes it hard to accruately compare them. I mean if you get 4 times the intensity of a given set of bands, but don't cover 80% of the bandwidth range that's useable...<shrug>

    But LEDs are more efficient emitters...less heat for the total light intensity, even if the light intensity in question has gaps in bandwidth that may or may not make the "watt equivalency rating" less effective than the equivalent HID. CFLs are cooler per bulb, at the emitter, thus can be hung much closer to the plant, so lose less intensity...but you need 20 "23/100" watt CFL bulbs hung a foot from the plant to match the intensity of a 400 watt HID at 2 feet from the plant...and CFLs are actually less efficient, so if you try to do that, you'll get more heat than you would from the HID.

    Lighting's a matter of "what limitations do you have?" more than anything else. If you can manage heat well, HID with LED augmentation works damn well. If not, LEDs with a CFL augmentation does it (hybrid to provide at least SOME coverage through the weaknesses of each system). Small stealth grow, you can do it on CFLs...but you don't deliver near the energy/intensity you would from LEDs...which means less robust growth and less/smaller/lower quality flowers than you COULD be getting.

    oldskool's "100 watts per plant" is a good rule of thumb for SMALL plants under a CFL, or under larger grows with a ton and a half of light available. If you're running 4 "medium" plants...say getting them to between 24 and 30 inches before flowering, bushed out by topping or LST, try for more light intensity in any way you can manage it without causing insurmountable issues in other areas.
     
  10. Wow, thanks for the help
     
  11. #11 Deepthree, Nov 28, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 28, 2014
    I personally would do the whole grow with the t5s and if not that I'd use the t5s for veg and the hps for flower. The mh would make it a lot more difficult to keep the temps low.
     
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  12. True..though fluorescents actually produce more heat for the intensity. You can hang them closer to the plant, so it's not as obvious, but you need 20 "23/100" CFLs (no, not the same thing, but the same way light is produced, same inefficiencies in ballast, so same heat/watt ratio, roughly) at 12 inches to match intensity of a 400 watt HID at 24 inches...which will create more heat than the HID.
     
    On the other hand, you can hang a CFL within as close to 2 inches of the plant heart without damage, usually, so you don't end up with the same scale of loss.
     
  13. Hmm led has its place and i know gor sure i can get more withbled watt for watt than hps. Cause ive done it many times and i even did a test and again done it i achive more than 1gpw with both but led gave me that bit more plus i dont worry abiut heat....

    auto help page if you need help with autoflowers http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1294434-Need-help-with-autos?-Welcome

    new vote page sept please vote http://www.dutch-passion.nl/en/photovote/2014-09-03-autoultimate%C2%AE-loki_1752/
     
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  14. I've had the opposite experience with LED-only. Supplemented, it was good, though.

    But it's also only a 5 channel red/blue and a couple 1K whites in the LED I have...makes a difference.
     
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  16. MH and HPS 1kW I've been using are rated at 35,000 to 50,000 hours. Doubt I'll see that much, but that's one hell of a lot more than 3 months. 5 years on 18/6 if it lasts to the LOWER rating.

     
     
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